Which anti corrosion spray

[Maverik]

Just visited Buzz weld, interesting site, especially seeing their wee test area.

I'm not so convinced waxy stuff is any worse or better for cavities than oil, I stand to be corrected but I'm going to persist with regular duck oil treatments which should hopefully build up a protective oily skin.

I think the major battle with most of these treatment methods is getting the right conditions for application, get them all right and most of the treatments outlines above will work, get elements wrong and that's when they start to fail... thus everyone's different opinions etc. 

[Rattles]

...totally agree, after a couple of applications mixed with general road dust there is a very robust hydrophobic film developed and each application of oil mobilises the previous so keeping the surfaces constantly wetted especially internal surfaces.

[Rattles]

..in fact I don't think that there's a fix and forget solution for chassis corrosion (other than a new galvanised chassis..£££), I treat it as a serviced item (much like an engine oil change) and include it into the service schedule. 

[jason110]

Is that what most folk use to apply oil or waxy solutions to chassis' ? 

[Bowie69]

I dunno about most, but I have used that, with very thinned waxoil, and it atomised it nicely.

[Rattles]

Recently bought a gallon of Duck Oil of eBay for 24 quid and it included a reasonable quality hand sprayer and that works fine, easily okay to spray the whole underside in about 20 minutes.

[Ozzy50]

I have to say I have never found a problem with good old waxoyl ,I think a lot of the problems or misconceptions regarding its abilities come from bad application ,the surface it is being applied to needs to be clean and  I always warm the tub up in a bucket of hot water until it is liquid then apply with a Schultz gun at around 50 psi . Having said that you probably can't beat oil for real rust proofing , take a look at your landy chassis next to the steering box, bell housing and transfer box for proof ?

[Rattles]

I use Waxoil on by bikes over winter and then wash it off with Gunk in early spring and it does a great job of of keeping the ravages of salt away from painted steel and lacquered aluminium but these surfaces are pristine and Corosion free. Banging Waxoil over corroded steel is a different matter though and my previous LRs went from bad to rotten. My mates a lorry mechanic and TVR enthusiast and he commented one day that you never see a rusty lorry chassis and undercarriage as it's always coated in a film of oil and dust, so we both ditched wax and went over to light oils and eventually settled on Duck Oil...never a problem since and my welder sits in the back of the garage with a layer of dust on it....sorted☺️

[Ozzy50]

Ah TVR's , only thing that rusts faster than a 200 disco ! I have a TVR S awaiting restoration here in the yard. I am liking the way of thinking regarding light oils for rust protection,I use a spray and smear of WD40 on my tools, work benches etc in my damp workshop so it makes sense although I am going to Galv the 110 chassis during its rebuild ,which will help !

[Ozzy50]

I am currently welding up my 300 disco , rotten in all the usual ,so I will try the light oil, duck oil method rather than waxoyl before it goes back on the road and see how it gets on ??

[Rattles]

Just sprayed the middle and forward door pillars internally with Duck Oil. I thought about drilling a 5mm hole in the top of the pillars behind the trim (as I said earlier), easy enough and wouldn't disturb the structural integrity of the pillars but on second thoughts it's pointless as its only the bottom 20% that goes black and drop off, so I removed the wiring gators from the pillars and fed my Chassis Wand down to the cills, fired it up and slowly retrieved it out the pillars. You will see a witnessing of oil seeping along the lower spot welded seam of the cill so you know it's getting into all the water traps. Interestingly I could hear the middle near side pillar bubbling when the wand was activated at cill depth, took the drain (rubber/plastic) grommet out, got a length of wire in there  and after a lot of cursing/waggling was rewarded with half a pint of rusty water and bits of goo up my sleeve. Turns out it was a decomposing plug af wax from a previous life blocking the drain hole (I'd have a look in but my endoscope is still k...d)....easy job and I've added it to my list of orifices to regularly spray.

 

[jason110]

Can you send me a photo of your chassis wand mate? Did you order the duck oil off the Internet? 

[Rattles]

Both of eBay mate..

[Rattles]

Maverik's just bought both and says he was 'chuffed'.....I'm assuming that's good?

[SteveG]

So how does the duck oil stand up to pressure washing after you've been off road??

Cheers, Steve 

[Rattles]

As long as you don't use a detergent it tends to stay put, but at 2,000 PSI a jet washer is perfect at getting water into and behind everything (I knackered my level sensors when I used to use one) and as it's only mud we're shifting so I now use a hosepipe with one of those garden angled lances from Wilcos and the like....works a treat and you don't blow it all over next doors washing..?

[SteveG]

I'll think I'll stick to using dinitrol 3125 covered by 4941. Re-coating every 4-5 years, with the occasional spot touch up in between, sounds infinitely better than every six months.

cheers, Steve

[Rattles]

Your call Steve, what's your plans for the internal surfaces mate?

[GW8IZR]

I always used 3m cavity wax which I reckon was quite a bit better than Dinitrol, now I have to .. ahem! pay for it, I've used Dinitrol for this winters coating.

I need to do the cavities in my estate car and thats going to get 3m as its almost certainly never been done before.

I use a shutz gun which I decant whatever I'm using into re cycled  stone chip cartridges and over the years I've made a number of lances of various shapes and spray patterns, at this time of the year the most important thing is making sure the car is dry, steam clean and let it air dry for ever. ( spray booth on max if you can)

Its the wrong time of year to do DIY rustproofing of a permanent nature, Today I'd spray it with a wet oily wax based on cheapest cavity wax mixed with gear oil and get it warm and thin then in spring steam it off and do a proper job.  A bit like the old story, if I was going to the town I wouldn't start from here!

 

HTH

[Rattles]

Wow..that's dedication to hard work mate. I've long since preferred to drive moisture out of cavities and seams with a hydrophobic oil, also very effective this time of year but then I don't use wax anymore.

[GW8IZR]

I'm not sure whats considered hard work, takes maybe half an hour to steam it off - it certainly takes longer to dry than clean.

In this context Isn't hydrophobic oil just a bastardisation of the term simply implying separation of water and oil?

[Rattles]

Absolutely...although some oils are obviously hydrophilic..

Regarding 'hard work' I'm tempted to get some ramps as it's just fitting under the thing that I struggle with..maybe slimming tablets would also work..? 

[Rattles]

Does your steamer also lift under-seal, as I would possibly think of investing.

[GW8IZR]

9 hours ago, Rattles said:

Absolutely...although some oils are obviously hydrophilic..

Regarding 'hard work' I'm tempted to get some ramps as it's just fitting under the thing that I struggle with..maybe slimming tablets would also work..? 

 

Absolutely right, access is the key to success, if you can see the nooks, crannies and seams from lots of angles you can be sure you have worked whatever coating or oil into the vulnerable spots, the trick seems to be getting a thin oil (or good cavity seal) in there and then an overall coat - I treat that overall coat as a sacrificial layer that gets dirty and nasty, clean it all back as much as possible every year or so and re coat.. as long as the thin oil/wax is in the cracks keeping that lot protected. ( the LR is galvanised as well but my road cars get that treatment and they seem to last ok.)

Struggling on your back with hand pumps is a nasty chore and we just miss important bits, i've been there done that and got the waxed overalls :-)

 

9 hours ago, Rattles said:

Does your steamer also lift under-seal, as I would possibly think of investing.

My steamer is a big diesel Karcher thing, its also 'er brothers not mine :-) but anything loose will come off and it will shift some underseal, if it doesn't loosen or remove it I suppose the bond to the substrate is good and it may as well stay put. Last weekend I did the bottom of a neighbours 5 year old 110 - pretty much all the paint came off the rear cross. Thats a good thing of course as now its been painted properly!

 

<edit> just a point, in days gone by we sprayed waste oil on everything, of course we now 'know' its a bad thing to do as it contains acid that rots the car.. funny that no one told the metro van that was done in the late eighties and gets a spray of the stuff every few years. It is still passing its test each year. Used on the fields and in yards containing cow **** it survives very well. :-)

[SteveG]

16 hours ago, Rattles said:

Your call Steve, what's your plans for the internal surfaces mate?

The insides we're done with 3125 too.

Personally, from using it on the Defender, I know that 3125 covered by 4941 works on chassis and underside. It takes the abuse of going off road, and regular pressure cleaning mud off the underside.

So when when the range rover classic is prepped and ready this year, I'll continue with that tried and tested process. Not that the RRC will see anything like the level of off road use as the 90, but knowing that it works and only has to be re-applied every 4-5 years is good for me.

Cheers, Steve