miketomcat Posted November 5, 2017 Share Posted November 5, 2017 The story starts a way back. First we found on the third brake in quick succession the servo assistance had gone. After various checks I lifted the lid on the vacuum pump to find a well worn vain spindle so ordered a new one. In the mean time I noticed it getting clattery then noticed a leak from the bottom of the injection pump. New vac pump arrives and I fit it. Now I have no servo assistance at all the pump is drawing no vacuum at tick over and half of bugger all at elevated revs. So I assume this new one is knackered and noticed a slight miss fire on initial start up but it clears. Today I've changed the vacuum pump it seems to draw better but haven't driven it yet. I've also changed the injection pump but it's still clattery not quite as bad as it was I think but that maybe wish full thinking. The start up miss fire still seems to be there. Ideas and suggestions on cause of Clattering (yes I know it's a diesel and they clatter but this is more than normal). Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roverdrive Posted November 6, 2017 Share Posted November 6, 2017 Check the crank pully nut. Had one come loose on a 200tdi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted November 6, 2017 Author Share Posted November 6, 2017 I think it' more top end than bottom but a good shout. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted November 6, 2017 Share Posted November 6, 2017 Duff injector? Slacken the unions one at a time to see if the noise goes away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted November 6, 2017 Author Share Posted November 6, 2017 Right tonight I have changed the vac pump again for a known second hand one whilst the original issue is still there (New servo me thinks) the brakes are back to how they were. The clattering is definitely a little quieter but still not right. I've cracked the injectors one by one but no difference. I think the noise is coming from the cam or cam pulley area I guess the timing chest will be coming off soon. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted November 12, 2017 Author Share Posted November 12, 2017 Well took the timing cover off today. Crank bolt wasn't very tight so after a fight with the crank pulley (had to use a puller all the way off). I found two knackered keys a very worn cam belt crank pulley and a little wear on the crank. I've taken a pulley and keys off another engine and rebuilt with a new cam belt. If it starts rattling again then I'll need a new crank. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted November 12, 2017 Share Posted November 12, 2017 Thing to remember with these engines is that the torque to turn the cambelt-apeocket is transmitted by it being clamped hard between the shoulder on the nose of the crank and the rear of the front vibration-damper/pulley, *not* by the Woodruff-keys. Same goes for the drive to the oil-pump. It's not the Woodruff-key or the 'flats' on the pump-rotor engaging with the crankshaft, it's the clamped friction between the rotor and the crankshaft-shoulder where the work is done. Hence the need to torque the crank-pulley-bolt up to a murderously-high level if the clamping is to be consistent and not 'relieve' itself after a few thousand miles. Smart people replace the bolt every time it's off, since they do stretch and you can't get a reliable clamping once they've been pushed past their elastic limit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted November 12, 2017 Author Share Posted November 12, 2017 Yes it is clamped I don't have a torque wrench that goes high enough so usually tighten it with a scaffold tube on my power bar. Clearly last time it wasn't tight enough, hopefully this time it is. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted November 12, 2017 Share Posted November 12, 2017 Did mine today. I don’t have a big enough torque wrench either so I use a scaffold tune over a breaker bar. The tube is five feet long and I use a spring balance to put 50lbs of pull on it. If my maths is correct that makes 250ft-lbs of torque. Good tip about replacing the bolt, didn’t realise that could be an issue. Too late this time but I will change it next time I’m in there. Probably due as it’s the fourth time I’ve changed the belt, and it should have been done at least twice before me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 13, 2017 Share Posted November 13, 2017 I never replaced my crank pulley bolt, not had a problem with it coming undone, this time it got some threadlock applied & torqued up. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted November 13, 2017 Share Posted November 13, 2017 18 hours ago, Retroanaconda said: so I use a scaffold tune Lily The Pink? .......I may be showing my age there On Topic , it's good that you didn't leave it long to find it Mike , I'm sure you will be fine now cheers Steve b 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted November 14, 2017 Share Posted November 14, 2017 On 11/13/2017 at 10:36 AM, western said: ... this time it got some threadlock applied.... Is this not a standard book procedure? If not, it still seems like very good sense to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 14, 2017 Share Posted November 14, 2017 7 hours ago, mickeyw said: Is this not a standard book procedure? If not, it still seems like very good sense to me. Correct, my workshop manual says apply Loctite 242 to threads of the crank damper bolt & fit & tighten to the correct torque Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roverdrive Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 Glad you found it. Could have proven expensive if left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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