DC_ Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 Agreed, although quoting me suggests it’s aimed at me..... 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 Let me clarify. This thread is about helping bushwacker and HIS vehicle. Talking about your vehicle is not helpful and causes confusion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 No clarification needed thanks anyway... IMHO learning is the key factor here. So if a TDI requires a 88, and older engines require a 74 or 82, then learning is achieved. When I post for help, I welcome all comments. It’s doesn't confuse as I’m sure Mr BW can determine what advice is for him.  Yes it’s not my thread as previously stated.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 nothing to stop you using a 88 degree stat in a non tdi engine though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howitzer Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 20 hours ago, western said: try 13H7343L for the cable spring retaining clips http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/229999/0/heater_cable_to_levers_clip_defender___series_111 Brilliant, thanks for that ! I don’t suppose you also know where I can get the small wire clamp which screws onto the control wire ?  Its due a few tweaks in general since doing my bulkhead swap 5 years ago so should really start getting all the parts together. Dave! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 2 hours ago, Howitzer said: Brilliant, thanks for that ! I don’t suppose you also know where I can get the small wire clamp which screws onto the control wire ?  Its due a few tweaks in general since doing my bulkhead swap 5 years ago so should really start getting all the parts together. Dave! cable grip from same place, part number 566902 http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/80325/0/heater_cable_trunion_series_111 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted December 21, 2017 Author Share Posted December 21, 2017 Guys don't worry about who the threads belong to.I don't mind as long as we can all help each other in our wee Land Rover. My thanks to all who commented. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted December 23, 2017 Share Posted December 23, 2017 You can lose a lot of air through splits and rust holes in the matrix housing and has been said through a crumbled or non existent foam gasket between the bulkhead and heater.  There is a foam gasket surrounding the matrix itself which can disappear and then cold air gets drawn in and blown to the cab.  Makes a huge difference sealing the heater box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 23, 2017 Share Posted December 23, 2017 Also the condition of the lower dash can make a difference. Mine was full of rusty holes when I stripped it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 24, 2017 Share Posted December 24, 2017 If the problem is low temperature of air, then check the cable adjustment and free travel of the levers and the air flap inside the matirx housing, check the thermostat and give the matrix a flush through with hot caustic soda solution (flush with clean water before reconnecting the hoses. Make sure the steel pipe that bolts along the head is clean internally, too. If the problem is low airflow, check the matrix and blower housing for rust holes, the lower fascia for rust and screw holes, the rubber gaskets around the demisters for condition and correct fitting (they split with age and are often mis-seated and sometimes missing all together). You'll have to open the instrument panel and remove the plastic facsia that covers the vent flaps (grey until 2002 models). Make sure the demister vent hoses are secure around the base of the demister nozzles. Check the operation of the blocking flap near the bulkhead aperture oft he matrix housing (moved by the cable attached to the fan switch). If all else fails, remove the assembly to remove and clean out a mud blocked matrix and fan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted December 28, 2017 Author Share Posted December 28, 2017 Just an up date. Got presented with a (secondhand) TD5 heaterbox complete, installed it and hey ho we now have heat and very acceptable it is. Only hitch is the leaver for screen and low position is not working sort of stuck half and half. Does that require the whole dash to be removed for it to be fixed ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 29, 2017 Share Posted December 29, 2017 It could be a seized lever, or it could be a jammed cable. Try freeing the lever with penetrating oil, and if that doesn't work, pour oil down the cable and try to gently work it free. It could be the flaps in the lower fascia, but they're pretty simple and there is little to go wrong with them other than the foam seals deteriorating on their lower faces, so they non longer seal off the foot wells when demist is selected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnralphs Posted December 29, 2017 Share Posted December 29, 2017 (edited) I have fitted a Webasto in a 300Tdi which heats the water in the heater circuit and the engine block.  When this is up to temperature, it turns on the heater fan in the cab and should make the cab very cosy - except it is not effective.  The water in the heater circuit is piping hot - so hot that I can barely touch the top of the heater matrix (a new high capacity unit from Alisport).   The heater fan blows a reasonably strong draft of air into the cab, but it's only luke warm.  Lots of people have suggested fitting a stronger fan.  Others have enlarged the hole in the bulkhead to allow a greater flow of air through the matrix.  But I don't think these are likely to give warmer air. Given that the heater matrix can only transfer a finite amount of heat to the air passing through it, a faster air flow will just result in cooler air at higher speed. I'm fairly sure now that the key issue is that the heater matrix is simply not good enough for the job.  Even the Alisport unit (which boasts twice the capacity as standard) only seems to hold twice the quantity of water, but it does not (in my experience) function any better than the standard matrix in terms of passing heat to the air.  If there is a solution to what is fundamentally a design weakness, I'm coming to the conclusion that it is to fit a heater matrix with a larger surface area.  Has anybody tried this approach ? Edited December 29, 2017 by johnralphs missing word in last para Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 I would guess you hot/cold flap is not sealing fully or you have not sealed around the matrix well inside the box. You should have nice hot air with that setup. More air is not the solution to hotter air. A stock well sealed heater will put out very hot air. The Allisport matrix can only be better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 11 hours ago, johnralphs said: I have fitted a Webasto in a 300Tdi which heats the water in the heater circuit and the engine block.  When this is up to temperature, it turns on the heater fan in the cab and should make the cab very cosy - except it is not effective.  The water in the heater circuit is piping hot - so hot that I can barely touch the top of the heater matrix (a new high capacity unit from Alisport).   The heater fan blows a reasonably strong draft of air into the cab, but it's only luke warm.  Lots of people have suggested fitting a stronger fan.  Others have enlarged the hole in the bulkhead to allow a greater flow of air through the matrix.  But I don't think these are likely to give warmer air. Given that the heater matrix can only transfer a finite amount of heat to the air passing through it, a faster air flow will just result in cooler air at higher speed. I'm fairly sure now that the key issue is that the heater matrix is simply not good enough for the job.  Even the Alisport unit (which boasts twice the capacity as standard) only seems to hold twice the quantity of water, but it does not (in my experience) function any better than the standard matrix in terms of passing heat to the air.  If there is a solution to what is fundamentally a design weakness, I'm coming to the conclusion that it is to fit a heater matrix with a larger surface area.  Has anybody tried this approach ? That's a problem with the heat control flap or its lever and cable. I have a bog standard second hand heater tied to my 200Tdi, and the air from the vents is hot enough on high or low flow to be uncomfortable to hold your fingers in for more than a few seconds, without any additional heat source. You're quite right that increasing airflow will lower the temperature - mine is slightly cooler at high flow. But you need to ensure the blower air is forced through the matrix, not allowed to bypass around it, which is how the Defender box temperature control works. It's highly unlikely that the new matrix has a blockage, air or coolant side, so it must be that the air is flowing around rather than through it, or the coolant is being blocked (delaminated hoses or a rusty steel pipe along the head would do it). If the top of the matrix stays that hot after a couple of minutes of the fan being on, then it can't be a coolant flow restriction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted December 30, 2017 Author Share Posted December 30, 2017 I found opening the heater box up to remove the resister and matrix helped me understand what the internal flaps actually done and where the flaps would be in relation to the levers on the outside of the heater box and on the dash, western’s guide on setting the levers helped a lot to. the only thing wrong with my set up now is the demist/screen or feet/legs is stuck half and half the leaver is not stuck but the flaps are not moving. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 I suspect the cables are either to tight or the flaps are not in the correct place when you set them up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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