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Very tight lock nut series 3


neilc

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This morning I attempted to replace my wheel bearings ,I had everything laid out ready to go , however I fell at the first fence , I opened my new 52mm box spanner and couldn't get the bolt off ,the hole in the box spanner that allows you to put something in to turn it is about the circumference of a biro , any ideas please ? ,I need to do this tommorow ,too late to buy a socket unfortunately , and it needs a bit of leverage , Thanks 

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Yup, drill it out, or buy a decent half or three quarter inch drive deep 52mm socket....

https://www.paddockspares.com/air-impact-deep-socket-52mm.html

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-4884-Impact-Deep-52mm/dp/B0039316N0

The box spanners plus tight hub nuts are a quick recipe for skinned knuckles as they smash into the ground once it slips off the nut.

...and it WILL.

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Like they said - be VERY careful with those hub spanners (esp. the less expensive ones) as they are not the most stable thing to start with and one can easily hurt oneself....

A 52 mm socket is money but oh so much more safe...

Bon Couarage !

 

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I welded on a metal pole and it works great ,just a few questions re wheel bearings if that's ok , if you look at the first diagram mine is missing the b washer ( not the nut ) , is it just a standard washer I can get from Halfords ? , Also my lockwasher is all bent up and the lip has snapped that stops it rotating so im getting a new one . There isnt one it the kit but there is a lockwasher that looks solid  , what is that for ? There's no way that can be bent forward and backward to secure nuts.

Thanks. 

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Edited by neilc
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You should have a thick ground washer/ring with an internal tab to go in the groove on the stub axle , this goes between the outer bearing and the first nut . Then the lock washer then the outer nut . The lock washer should be bent in to lock the inner nut and out to lock the outer nut , the lock washer should also have an internal tab to go in the groove.

cheers

Steve b

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Yeah I've ordered a lock washer the tab had worn down so it keeps spinning , also although that think ground washer was in the kit there wasn't one on ,it did seem that the bearings were ok ( I changed them anyway but the back oil seal didn't seem seated and the rear bearing was rattling about , the washer I'm really interested in is the one behind the castle nut ( that was also missing ) can I use the foam washer in the new kit or do I need to buy a new one ? Looks like a standard washer ?

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That workshop manual diagram you show doesn't go with the 52mm box spanner you are messing about with.
Your 52mm spanner is used on the nut shown in the background of your drawing; the 52 mm nut is not numbered in that diagram.

The locking washer that gets folded over is to hold that nut in the background. The washer is not in the diagram.
The 52mm nut is not torqued up tightly in service. It should be tightened during the installation process, as reasurance the bearing is properly seated, but then released to give running clearance to the hub bearings.

The only requirement to apply a lot of torque to the 52mm nut is because a previous owner (or mechanic) hasn't understood how the complete assembly works and severely overtightened the nut.

Once you have corrected that error you only need the torque supplied by a firm hand grip on the box spanner. Use of protective glooves is optional, although I would always recommend wiping grease off both the spanner and your hand.

Regards.

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