fearofweapons Posted July 9, 2019 Share Posted July 9, 2019 Hello all, It looks like I am going to have to swap out my wife's SIII 1974 SWB gearbox and transfer box. While doing it I am going to take the opportunity to replace the rubber mounts. Is there anything else you would recommend I should do while I am there? Any tips /tricks appreciated; under or over extraction, which bolt always shears off, etc. Never done one before. Gulp! If any one has a list of required seal part numbers that would save me some time too 😉 The engine it's mated to is a 2.5 petrol out of an early 90 ( I belive). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted July 9, 2019 Share Posted July 9, 2019 I have not done what you are about to do, but two things have stuck in my memory, from reading the exploits of others. I mention them because they might apply to your wife's vehicle. The metal wedges the rear engine mounts are bolted too are handed, be careful not to inadvertantly swap them. (The 'gear box mounts' are named rear engine mounts in the LR Parts book). There is an optional extra, an engine steady rod, which runs fore and aft, joining the gearbox to a cross member. This was normally specified with the heavy duty cooling fan. It also stops the assembly moving forward when the handbrake is applied, so giving an apparent increase in handbrake efficiency (the lever doesn't have to move as much). Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted July 9, 2019 Share Posted July 9, 2019 I would also check your clutch with a view to replace it if it looks worn, would be a lot of work if it fails sooner rather than later Regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted July 9, 2019 Share Posted July 9, 2019 The hardest part of the job is usually getting the seat box out, the bolts are a right royal pain to get to. The rest is pretty easy provided you've got an engine crane. A few notes: Unbolt the plates that connect the rubber mounts to the crossmember. It's far easier than fighting with anything else. A trolley jack under the rear of the sump makes life a lot easier as you're lifting the gearbox to pull it out. You can lift the rear of the engine slightly to keep it all in line. Take the gearstick off! It catches on everything. Pop the bolts back in the rear of the sills. They're too tempting to lean on and bend/break stuff if unsupported at the rear. Bellhousing bolts are easy to get to from inside with the floor and tunnel out. Hope it all goes smoothly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fearofweapons Posted July 9, 2019 Author Share Posted July 9, 2019 Thanks for the suggestions so far - the clutch one sounds a jolly good idea, I had over looked that. I have yet to source a replacement Gearbox so I'm not expecting to be doing this in the next week but we need it done for mid August so not much time to waste. I am also going to explore getting the Ashcroft higher ratio transfer box option ( I saw the post about that on here ). The 90 2.5 petrol would be fine with longer legs and it would make motoring, noise and fuel, much less painful. cheers, Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 9, 2019 Share Posted July 9, 2019 Don't forget all the lock tabs and other disposable items. Do you have the parts manual? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fearofweapons Posted July 10, 2019 Author Share Posted July 10, 2019 Hi Gazzer, yes I have a parts manual. I am hoping to secure a refurbished gearbox and transferbox combo so I *think* I would only need a couple of seals for that? If anyone can educate me otherwise please feel free. Looks like the Ashcroft route is out at the moment - at a 4-6 week lead time for a modified transfer case and then getting the two boxes rebuilt would see us out of time. 😞 It might be something to put on the back burner 'till later - which is a shame as it will cost me extra - ah well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Romahomepete Posted July 11, 2019 Share Posted July 11, 2019 Start now with the seat box bolts if it has not been out recently loosen everything and lubricate, but not with copper grease. five minutes here and there until you know that they will all come undone. When you start to do the swap the pain of the seatbox will have been dealt with and will make the rest of the job easier. Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fearofweapons Posted July 12, 2019 Author Share Posted July 12, 2019 Thanks Peter for the suggestion. Having recently replaced the bulkhead on my 110 I am all too familiar with the challenges of seat box / floor panel removal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fearofweapons Posted July 15, 2019 Author Share Posted July 15, 2019 well it's a start... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 15, 2019 Share Posted July 15, 2019 It's been done before, recondition plate on the bell housing! Plus the high/low selector connection looks odd. As does the main box stick bridge mount on the bell housing. Isn't that usually held on by set screws? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fearofweapons Posted July 16, 2019 Author Share Posted July 16, 2019 Hi Gazzer, The high low selector is partially undone, to make access to a nut easier, so it's floppy about a bit. Yes the access plate / main stick bell housing mount is a mess. We are finding the previous owner made some interesting 'improvements'! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted July 16, 2019 Share Posted July 16, 2019 Replace the spigot bush, clutch plate and carefully check the pressure plate and release bearing. Charles Emberton has an eBay shop that sells nice mounting rubber stock that absorb a lot of noise and vibration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fearofweapons Posted July 17, 2019 Author Share Posted July 17, 2019 Snagger - thanks for the recommendation. Do you a have a link to Mr Embertons ebay shop please? I have done a quick search on ebay but not been able to find him. ( The problem is probably between the seat and the keyboard on that one! 😉 ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted July 17, 2019 Share Posted July 17, 2019 https://www.ebay.com/str/classiclandroverparts Really good guy, big enthusiast, sells good kit and works hard to give good service. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fearofweapons Posted July 24, 2019 Author Share Posted July 24, 2019 Thanks snagger for the pointer - new rubbers fitted today to the refurbished mounts. Just need the gearbox now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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