reb78 Posted September 29, 2019 Share Posted September 29, 2019 There is a stud on the 200tdi defender engine that passes through the timing chest into the block. The outer end of it has a nut on it that is one of the points that the coolant pump is secured on. Oil seems to be weeping along the stud and out on the coolant pump and then dripping down the timing case front cover. Any solutions?? - none that mean removing the timing chest again! I was thinking i might take the water pump pulley off, remove the stud and put some loctite sealant to the back of the hole? Should I just seal the under the nut (this would still mean oil is getting onto the shaft of the stud and sit around the gaskets it runs through but I suppose this wont cause an issue?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted September 29, 2019 Author Share Posted September 29, 2019 I hadnt long wiped it in this pic so its dribbling fairly quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 29, 2019 Share Posted September 29, 2019 The stud hole must go through to cam follower area that's the only way oil can get on it, Removing the bolt cleaning & sealing the thread should cure it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted September 29, 2019 Author Share Posted September 29, 2019 What sealant would you use Ralph? Loctite gasket type? I dont know how to clean the thread without using brake cleaner and i dont want to use that and get it in the oil or on the gaskets that the stud runs through. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 29, 2019 Share Posted September 29, 2019 Don't think a squirt of brake cleaner would do any long term harm, maybe a rag on a long thin screwdriver or rod or pipe cleaner soaked in brake cleaner would remove the unwanted oil. A non setting sealant like red hermetite might work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted September 29, 2019 Author Share Posted September 29, 2019 Cool. Will give it a go. I am paranoid of creating another leak as I have just spent evenings in the last week removing the timing chest and fixing the leaks behind it! I wish I had managed to address this stud correctly at that point! But apparently not! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 29, 2019 Share Posted September 29, 2019 Looking back at my engine rebuild photo's I didn't refit the stud until the front cover & water pump were in place, so it should be a easy fix. marked the stud hole with the red loop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted September 29, 2019 Author Share Posted September 29, 2019 Thanks. Will get to it once I have welded the rusty sill on the D2 up for the MOT on Tuesday!! I have a really busy week and could do without these cars at the moment! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 29, 2019 Share Posted September 29, 2019 Hope the D2 passes ok, the 110 won't or shouldn't take to long to fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted September 29, 2019 Author Share Posted September 29, 2019 1 hour ago, western said: Hope the D2 passes ok, the 110 won't or shouldn't take to long to fix. Haha, knowing my luck at the moment, removing that stud will make something drop off inside the engine!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 29, 2019 Share Posted September 29, 2019 You don't need to worry about that, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted September 29, 2019 Share Posted September 29, 2019 Always a good idea to fit studs that live in a non-blind hole with some thread sealant (sealant, not locker). Loctite 542 suits the application well. I have the Bondloc equivalent at the moment and use it quite a bit. It's particularly good at preventing water ingress into threads in ali components of cooling systems too. The breakaway torque really isn't very high, so no worries about shearing off studs locked into place if you have to disassemble in the future. Loctite 270 can also be used if you're confident you can get a little heat to it (doesn't need much) if it's got a really good bond. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted September 30, 2019 Share Posted September 30, 2019 Its a funny one that as I think the stud came out last time I had the chest off on mine (rather than the nut coming off the stud), so it would have got loctite'd in when I put it back. I'd be trying to stem the leak at the source, so yeah pull the stud and seal it back in with either loctite or some silicone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted September 30, 2019 Author Share Posted September 30, 2019 What about using some PTFE tape on the thread? It should seal even if I cant get the thread in the block clean of oil? And should cope with the heat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted September 30, 2019 Share Posted September 30, 2019 26 minutes ago, reb78 said: What about using some PTFE tape on the thread? It should seal even if I cant get the thread in the block clean of oil? And should cope with the heat? Yes I see no reason why not. Can't hurt to try either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted September 30, 2019 Share Posted September 30, 2019 Yeah PTFE should do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted September 30, 2019 Author Share Posted September 30, 2019 Great. Will do that once I have finished welding the disco sills tonight and got it through the MOT tomorrow! One working car at a time! I have two semi complicated sections to make and weld up tonight on the D2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted September 30, 2019 Share Posted September 30, 2019 I used thread sealant on that stud Rich. Previously I'd noted oil just on the thread, not quite as bad as yours. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted September 30, 2019 Share Posted September 30, 2019 Heldtite https://www.stationaryengineparts.com/Heldite-Jointing-Compound-125ml.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted October 1, 2019 Author Share Posted October 1, 2019 20 hours ago, Nonimouse said: Heldtite https://www.stationaryengineparts.com/Heldite-Jointing-Compound-125ml.html Thanks. The trouble again is that now it is all back together, I cant guarantee I can get the thread in the block clean of oil and all of these sealants seem to need that. The disco failed BTW. I welded the sill on one side but only did a visual check of the other. The tester put his thumb through the crust of underseal. I knew it needed looking at but hoped it would be ok this time and i could deal with it at a later date! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 Oh ****ing **** always something to repair, hope it doesn't need to much more welding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted October 1, 2019 Author Share Posted October 1, 2019 I hope not. This side isnt as bad - i think. The garage quoted £80ish as a rough estimate to do it, but I brought it home as i am sure it will get worse as i remove the rust and didnt want the price to spiral! I didnt get to bed until 2am this morning as i was finishing off the driver side! Am going to go out and strip it now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 Hope it's less area than you think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 15 hours ago, western said: Hope it's less area than you think. This is what I was hoping before I bought my new chassis!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 The joy of chasing rust Just a note: Heldite doesn't need a particularly clean environment to work, that and that it's in a funky retro bottle are excellent reasons to use it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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