IanV8disco Posted November 29, 2019 Share Posted November 29, 2019 Hi Folks, I am new to posting on this forum, I have got some good advice from here. anyway I am going to build a 100 inch Defender out of my 1999 registered Discovery 1 V8 manual. I will post up details of the dismantling and build, hopefully take plenty of pics. Hope the only pic I can find uploads? Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanV8disco Posted November 29, 2019 Author Share Posted November 29, 2019 Pics of the rusty rear body Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanV8disco Posted November 29, 2019 Author Share Posted November 29, 2019 More pics of the rust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanV8disco Posted November 29, 2019 Author Share Posted November 29, 2019 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanV8disco Posted November 29, 2019 Author Share Posted November 29, 2019 end of silld gone but the rest of the sills are OK, B posts are fine - no rust Body mounts forward of rear doors are OK too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted November 30, 2019 Share Posted November 30, 2019 There is a great 100 build in members vehicles. Well worth a read. Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanV8disco Posted November 30, 2019 Author Share Posted November 30, 2019 Thanks Mike, I will do that today. I just wanted to be sure this was the right thing to do before dismantling. I like tinkering, I am capable, I really cannot afford a decent Defender at the moment. Decision made Ian 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted November 30, 2019 Share Posted November 30, 2019 If your willing to make or repair then you can save money. But it will cost you more than you plan. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanV8disco Posted November 30, 2019 Author Share Posted November 30, 2019 Yes Mike I agree projects in the past have exceeded my financial plans, thanks for the advice - newbies take note! I do like to re use parts whenever possible - I don't have a bottomless pit of money - Hah cue the jokes about Money pit!! making them? if I cannot do it I know a man who can and he is an enthusiast too. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanV8disco Posted November 30, 2019 Author Share Posted November 30, 2019 OK as I am going to sell most of the top half of the Discovery, panels and seats etc, I did think about using the D1's seats Well... most posts I have read; people are bemoaning lack of space as they are too tall, well I am 6 feet tall and SWMBO is not far behind in height, So I am toying with the idea of Smart car seats, they look very slim, come in leather and some are heated - very useful in a Defender I think. Inspiration for this was from a build by Mudmonkey. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveturnbull Posted December 1, 2019 Share Posted December 1, 2019 Smart car seats have been done before, so obviously work. As do RX-8 seats. Access to the battery and storage boxes is the achilies heel of non-defender seats. Good to see another 100" joining the club! That chassis crossmember looks like it might need a bit of work tho. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudmonkey Posted December 2, 2019 Share Posted December 2, 2019 I thought the rust on my discovery shell was bad! It's definitely the way to give a new lease of life to a good solid discovery chassis and running gear, great to see another 100" project getting started. Seats wise, I have the smart car seats in my 100" and I've managed to get the passenger one to tip forward for access to the battery. Just need to get the seat heaters wired in now! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 2, 2019 Share Posted December 2, 2019 On 11/30/2019 at 1:26 AM, IanV8disco said: Pics of the rusty rear body “They all do that, Sir, and you’ll find it is a characteristic rather than a fault. As such, we can’t sort it out under warranty...” 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanV8disco Posted December 2, 2019 Author Share Posted December 2, 2019 Thanks for the answers, its much appreciated 😉 Mudmonkey; just been doing a bit of research regarding which Bulkhead to go with, am I correct in thinking TD5, 300TDi era will do the job and the same for the transmission tunnel? Daveturnbull; which tub would you recommend? yes chassis cross member will be getting attention - I am hoping to get it blasted as it will be stripped down for refurb over winter, It is remarkably sound, it will also need plating where bump stop mounts. I do like RX8 seats - there is a breaker near me so may try and ask nicely if I can borrow an RX8. I am going to start stipping the beast at the weekend - yeah! 😄 Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveturnbull Posted December 3, 2019 Share Posted December 3, 2019 Tubs - you can either do as Mudmonkey has, and use a 130 Hi-cap tub, or as I have done a re-work a standard 110 tub. The 130 Hi-cap looks like an easier option as it doesn't require any modifications to the tub, where as the 110 option there is quite a bit of work involved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudmonkey Posted December 3, 2019 Share Posted December 3, 2019 Bulkhead wise, any bulkhead will fit, if you use a TD5 one you will get the newer dash, heater etc if you buy it complete but all can be retrofitted to an earlier bulkhead anyway. Yes you will need a R380 era (300tdi-td5) transmission tunnel and seatbox to fit over the gearbox and there is a spigot piece that fits between the transmission tunnel and bulkhead too that you'll need. You'll also need the floor plates specific to that era. Tub wise, all depends on what you want to do with it when its finished. I only fitted the 130 tub to prove to myself that it could be done really, it's not the most versatile configuration if you need to carry people around or keep stuff dry whereas Dave's has seats in the back, dry storage and more room to recline your seat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanV8disco Posted December 3, 2019 Author Share Posted December 3, 2019 Thanks for the input guys. Even though it is bloody freezing outside I have removed the wiring loom from the rear of the discovery body to the dash Disconnected the wiring to the front N/S door, connectors all intact. I will advertise the loom and someone may have a need for it or I could use it at some point in the build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanV8disco Posted December 3, 2019 Author Share Posted December 3, 2019 I have already removed the headlining which made removing the wiring a lot easier. Front seats next and remove the sunroofs. Hope to have these done by the end of the week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted December 4, 2019 Share Posted December 4, 2019 Interesting project - very interesting.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanV8disco Posted December 6, 2019 Author Share Posted December 6, 2019 Going to put this on hold as I am going to restore the beast, Stripped most of the front end off and its in not too bad condition, sills great A and B posts perfect. I have not gone past the point of no return so restoration time!! I will look out for a ropey V8 in the spring and stick it in storage Ian 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallfry Posted December 7, 2019 Share Posted December 7, 2019 I would take a good long look at the rear half of that chassis before getting too involved. We have a TD5 here, same colour and everything. Jacked up the rear end at the radius arm mount, and jack kept jacking but vehicle stayed where it was ! All the rear end is shot, and it didn't look bad at all. And the roof is rusty at the front, letting in lots of water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanV8disco Posted December 7, 2019 Author Share Posted December 7, 2019 Smallfry thanks for that, I am getting under the rear chassis today, rear floor and tank is out so good access I was a bit knackered yesterday, still got the wings and lights and such off, then again I think I can strip the front off a D1 with my eyes closed 😁 I am going to give the area where the chassis X member is a good hammering - easier in the daylight. At least D1 chassis are usually in better nick than D2's Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 7, 2019 Share Posted December 7, 2019 DI and RRC chassis are usually good, but the shell terrible. So LR made the D2 shell very resilient and the chassis like a lace doily from the factory. 🙄 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanV8disco Posted December 9, 2019 Author Share Posted December 9, 2019 Update; I am going to take the body off with a crane or a Hi-Ab (hopefully) do the welding at the rear first to make it strong again before removal. Then I can have a proper look at the top rails of the chassis - do it properly. OK I will shut this thread down and start a new one restoring the V8. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 10, 2019 Share Posted December 10, 2019 On 12/7/2019 at 8:37 AM, smallfry said: I would take a good long look at the rear half of that chassis before getting too involved. We have a TD5 here, same colour and everything. Jacked up the rear end at the radius arm mount, and jack kept jacking but vehicle stayed where it was ! All the rear end is shot, and it didn't look bad at all. And the roof is rusty at the front, letting in lots of water. The D1 chassis are normally good, it was the Td5 era discos which are famous for rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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