Troll Hunter Posted September 14, 2020 Share Posted September 14, 2020 After struggling for days, yes, days, to get my Defender doors refitted, I have at last identified the problem. I bought from Paddocks a S/S hinge bolt kit, PM017, that is supplied with new nut clips, so that there is a complete new installation. The problem is that these new clips are not as long as the old clips, see photo, and this significantly reduces the scope of vertical adjustment. Consequently, I was unable to get the front doors to close, let alone to align properly. Easy fix - use the new bolts with the old fixings. Wrong! The old fixings are 5/16 x 24 and the new fixings are M8 x 1.25 - close, but not interchangeable. So, I'm about to start making a new set of nut clips to fit the new bolts, and the same length as the old clips, about 5mm longer than the new clips. Guess which is the old clip! I hope this might be a cautionary tale for any forum members thinking of buying a S/S bolt kit. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted September 15, 2020 Share Posted September 15, 2020 Paddock = Britpart = likely trouble. 😔 I’d send them back and demand a refund as they are not fit for purpose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneandtwo Posted September 16, 2020 Share Posted September 16, 2020 Britpart DA1132P / DA1134P stainless kits are excellent, exact replica of the TD5 / Puma bolts, although they don’t include spire clips - late Pumas ditched the spire clips anyway and went back to Series 2A type captive nut plates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted September 17, 2020 Author Share Posted September 17, 2020 I've no complaint about the S/S bolts and nuts, except that half the nuts were missing. It's the nut plates that were the problem. I tend to agree with Snagger, above, except that sending them back would cost me more than the refund! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 Slightly the other way around - not cheap I know, but I've used these on 2 builds now with the genuine LR galvanized torx bolts. Landrover defender stainless steel M8 j nuts | eBay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 On 9/14/2020 at 8:02 PM, Troll Hunter said: After struggling for days, yes, days, to get my Defender doors refitted, I have at last identified the problem. I bought from Paddocks a S/S hinge bolt kit, PM017, that is supplied with new nut clips, so that there is a complete new installation. The problem is that these new clips are not as long as the old clips, see photo, and this significantly reduces the scope of vertical adjustment. Consequently, I was unable to get the front doors to close, let alone to align properly. Easy fix - use the new bolts with the old fixings. Wrong! The old fixings are 5/16 x 24 and the new fixings are M8 x 1.25 - close, but not interchangeable. So, I'm about to start making a new set of nut clips to fit the new bolts, and the same length as the old clips, about 5mm longer than the new clips. Guess which is the old clip! I hope this might be a cautionary tale for any forum members thinking of buying a S/S bolt kit. Mike The bolts should be going in from opposite the nut not through the nut first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelE Posted January 23, 2021 Share Posted January 23, 2021 One would hope that the bolts are the wrong way round only for the photo. I struggled with these fixings last summer. The new ones that I had were like the OP's old ones - 2 part. Absolutely useless. The nuts on 2 of them were pushed out of the cage whilst trying to fit the bolts. I got some of the other type - one piece - and fitted them without a hitch. I used them on all of the bolts as I know there will be no problem for myself or any future owner removing the bolts. And yes, I use anti-seize on everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 I guess no one cares about electrolysis from dissimilar metals? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted January 24, 2021 Author Share Posted January 24, 2021 On 1/21/2021 at 1:15 AM, western said: They bolts should be going in from opposite the nut not through the nut first Agreed, and they were installed correctly. I was careless assembling the examples for the photo. Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 2 hours ago, uninformed said: I guess no one cares about electrolysis from dissimilar metals? Yes "we" do care. mixing stainless and other steels types can work fine dependent on the environment and use of barrier coatings. Yes submerge in salty water you're going to get issues - yes put 12v across it you might get issues. Apply some knowledge and a bit of regular maintenance, it will work as desired. I've got various fixtures and fittings made from stainless throughout my truck and I can honestly say its a joy to work on when I need to dismantle something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted January 25, 2021 Share Posted January 25, 2021 18 hours ago, Maverik said: Yes "we" do care. mixing stainless and other steels types can work fine dependent on the environment and use of barrier coatings. Yes submerge in salty water you're going to get issues - yes put 12v across it you might get issues. Apply some knowledge and a bit of regular maintenance, it will work as desired. I've got various fixtures and fittings made from stainless throughout my truck and I can honestly say its a joy to work on when I need to dismantle something. You don't need salt or electricity to trigger electrolysis, simply moisture. Barrier coatings if in some sort of liquid form break down over time, and can be messy. Plus there is always the risk of Gailling with stainless, as for removing, same applies for non stainless, as you have stated, clean and in appropriate places, anti seize. I have never had stuck bolts on maintenance items Given LR door frames prone to rust and leak, no way I would have a stainless bolt go inside, and the hinge corroding the aluminium skin. Each to their own, but the only stainless I will have on my 110 is the brake pistons, and maybe exhaust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 Someone is making assumptions and giving advice they weren’t asked for, having kicked off massively and accusing others of that on their own thread...🙄 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted January 27, 2021 Share Posted January 27, 2021 12 hours ago, Snagger said: Someone is making assumptions and giving advice they weren’t asked for, having kicked off massively and accusing others of that on their own thread...🙄 I better go through and delete all my other posts 😬😅 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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