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steve_a
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OK - never seen something this stuck before. I weigh give or take 16 stone. I had my 24mm spanner on the rear radius arm (axle end) bolt to try and give it a turn before I start to hammer the old bolt out. The nuts are slacked off, though that took both legs pushing for all I could to get them going.

It will not move.

I submit this bolt as the most incredibly stuck bolt I have come across. I would have no fear about taking the nut complete off and driving for six months to loosen it.

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cut it off or use a longer lever. :)

I suggest the nut on the end on the Maxidrive drive members

52mm with a 4ft bar and me at 12stone jumping on it it never moved.

resulted in me jacking the car up and putting the lever on the floor then dropping the car on the lever to crack it.

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the bolts that hold the RRC towing drop plate supports - the ones that go through the tubes welded on the underside of the chassis... After sheering them at the nut end I spent weeks squirting them every day with WD40 before finally I sheared off the bolt head too (at least I got the supports off then!)

Now I am faced with the remains of the bolts in the tubes and (after a couple of months of the WD40 treatment and continual bashing with a large pin-punch) I have to face the fact that I am beaten. :(

Rog

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you tried putting some heat on it?

There was some sweat on it, does that count? :)

A bit afraid that if I cut it off then I end up with the shank stuck in there and might not get it out. I think i might pop a wheel off to get to the nut end and then I get some serious wallop on it, I think the sledgehammer will be called for.

I might take some footage of me trying to get it undone first though, spose even if it starts turning it will still have the metal sleeve of the polybush to come off.

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I failed to undo a crank bolt on a 200TDi disco once, tried the bar on the chassis and crank it method - no luck. Drove it to my local garage and he tried the rattle gun, and it didn't budge either. I figured that I would cause some expensive damage if I tried anything more violent, so I had to pass on the job :ph34r:

Rog - I made the same mistake as you - Transit stub axle Nut - I snapped a 30-inch breaker bar trying to undo it the wrong way :blink:

Les. :)

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I failed to undo a crank bolt on a 200TDi disco once, tried the bar on the chassis and crank it method - no luck. Drove it to my local garage and he tried the rattle gun, and it didn't budge either. I figured that I would cause some expensive damage if I tried anything more violent, so I had to pass on the job :ph34r:

Rog - I made the same mistake as you - Transit stub axle bolt - I snapped a 30-inch breaker bar trying to undo it the wrong way :blink:

Les. :)

The most difficult bolt I've had so far was the bulkhead - outrigger bolt M12. Ended up grinding the nut off and even then it needed the remainder of the bolt clouting through with a big hammer!

Sometimes its nice that series Landrover bolt's shear so easily, it saves you trying to spin a nut all the way down a rusty bolt and I've got to admit shouting a few times "JUST SHEAR OFF - GOD DAMIT!!"

ta,

Lee

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For reluctant bolts try an air chisel with a flat ended tip in it, not to turn it but give it a hefty rattle on the head end to loosen it before attempting to knock it out the other way.

A friend showed me this trick years ago and it never ceases to amaze me how a bolt you cannot get out any other way just leaps onto the workshop floor :lol:

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Sometimes its nice that series Landrover bolt's shear so easily, it saves you trying to spin a nut all the way down a rusty bolt and I've got to admit shouting a few times "JUST SHEAR OFF - GOD DAMIT!!"

It's actiually a good idea to use mild steel bolts for places like body panels so if they do rust up they can be sheared off easily.

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you tried putting some heat on it?

Did think of that, but I don't have a blow torch or oxy set and I am also a bit concerned in case the inside of the chassis (which I think is waxoyled) catches fire! (Although I guess I could just stick a hose up the end if it did)

Would you happen to know if a little B&Q blow torch would work? (I always had access to oxy/acetelene in the past)

Rog

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I've got one of those Piezo (sp) igniting blow Torches from B&Q and the flame is high temperature. I use it quite often to undo seized nuts/bolts. There are two different canisters for them though, and one is supposed to give a hotter flame.

Les. :)

That's all the excuse I need - Where's that credit card? :D

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I've had exactly the same problem! Even after about half an hour of heating each one up they still didn't budge!!

I only wanted them out to put some JATE rings on for rear recovery points, so the easy solution was to copy the tube and plate design and make up some new ones further back on the chassis. I badgered the tame welder to get them stuck on and Robert's your mothers brother!

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I was trying to get the bolts out of the front of the radius arms without much luck - I had removed the nuts, and ended up with a 4 foot breaker bar on the bolt. I then put a 4ft piece of scaf pole onto the end of the bar - I ended up bending the breaker bar + cutting the bloody thing out. It looks like the bolt was siezed into the bush. I am now having the absolute nightmare of getting the bolts back in when the holes don't line up. I've tried everything I can, and still can't get them in. I don't want to hijack the thread, but does anybody have any ideas? Would it help if I got some spring compressors, so that they weren't pushing down on the axle???

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Ditto Trodden, battled with the front arms for probably a full day or more to get everything lined up.

Taper the ends of some old bolts the same size (M16 IIRC) and hammer them home. This will get you a hell of a lot of the way there. you might need one or two different types, I did a wedge, Si Brown did a taper. Whatever floats your boat i think. Bang them in from the wheel side so you can then drive them out with the proper bolts for final fitting.

If you have a lift I am sure that aligning them is more difficult, the axle is slightly rotated which makes that difficult and then the arms are slanted upwards making a bugger of trying to get the nut on the end.

A collection of big hammers, jacks and crowbars as well.

Feel for you .......

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Taper the ends of some old bolts the same size (M16 IIRC) and hammer them home. This will get you a hell of a lot of the way there. you might need one or two different types, I did a wedge, Si Brown did a taper. Whatever floats your boat i think. Bang them in from the wheel side so you can then drive them out with the proper bolts for final fitting.

A variation on this is to taper the end as above but also cut the head off so you can push this "follow through shaft" out in the same direction you bashed it in, this will prevent any slippage onto the taper if you bash it the other way.

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cut it off or use a longer lever. :)

I suggest the nut on the end on the Maxidrive drive members

52mm with a 4ft bar and me at 12stone jumping on it it never moved.

resulted in me jacking the car up and putting the lever on the floor then dropping the car on the lever to crack it.

Did someone put locktite on the thread? ;)

I think probably the worst one I had was the crank bolt on the old 300 tdi - bent the length of gas pipe I was using as a breaker bar and shattered the socket!

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