Jump to content

Heat Shield Material


Bigj66

Recommended Posts

On a different tack I need to get some heat wrap of some sort to insulate the fuel pipes on the '43 Jeep. It's all standard but every wartime Jeep I've had has has issues with modern fuel vapour using to a greater or lesser extent. The steel pipe runs from the tank under the driver's seat up to a standard big bowl filter on the right side of the bulkhead. From there it runs down to a flexible connection between chassis and engine, over to the engine, around the front of the block to the fuel pump on the left of the block fairly close to the manifold's. From the pump the steel pipe runs up to the Carter carburettor. The whole lot gets hot so in summer fuel vapourisation and vapour locks can be an issue. Obviously I can reroute the pipework but I prefer to keep original vehicles as original as possible. So some kind of unobtrusive insulation wrap would be good. I think some of the French M201's (licence built Jeeps) had an insulation for the engine bay pipes ...but fitting postwar Hotchkiss bits goes against the grain a bit.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the suggestions. I might have another way forward as I have a lot of spare Silent Coat sheets and isolator foam that it seems is ok for engine bay areas. In some ways I'd prefer that as it can be fixed in smaller sections around a complex shape, I wish I'd though about this with the engine and gearbox out as I don't know how I'd get rigid aluminium sheets in there. I do want to check with manufacturer before committing to this, though.

If not, I'm curious how others made the neceesary standoff required for the aluminium sheet. I don't want to drill loads of holes to secure it through whatever I would use as the spacers.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unless you have original fixings you will either be drilling and bolting, or welding studs in place, neither sound ideal in your case, and also why most shields are affixed to the component which normally has fasteners you can use.

If you do find body fasteners to use, then a nut threaded on before the shield material goes on works well, or rubber tap washers also work great, though less clearance obviously.

That car builder solutions material is very flexible, so you would be able to get it in place pretty easily.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You're right of course, I'd like to just go with heat shields over the hot bits but there's so much ambient heat from the engine, it makes sense to treat the effected area instead.

I have just ordered the exhaust wrap and some heat shield material for things like the clutch slave cylinder, while I have the exhaust off I might as well give the underfloor/bulkhead area some attention. I think the wrap will halve the heat at least as the sweat levels are directly proportionate to engine load.

There isn't really anywhere to cleanly bolt through apart from the floor plates so I'll have to go with something self adhesive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, ThreePointFive said:

I think the wrap will halve the heat at least as the sweat levels are directly proportionate to engine load.

Yep, this feels familiar, while driving the little green thing, also with headers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

55 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

Yep, this feels familiar, while driving the little green thing, also with headers.

Keep an eye on the prop ujs, my v8 headers (Double S) used to boil the grease out of the ujs when sat in traffic even after they were wrapped.  Sounded like an angry budgie.  Lost my temper and binned the buggers

Edited by JeffR
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, JeffR said:

Keep an eye on the prop ujs

Yeah will do Jeff, amongst everything else that's going on I'm not sure I would hear them ;) But worth a shot at squeezing some fresh grease in there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know a V8 can kick out heat but this feels like it's straying into serious overkill - the ambulance has the aforementioned 20mm foiled foam under the tunnel and Wright Offroad mats and that's about it, I wouldn't say it's noticeably uncomfortable sitting in traffic in hot weather. Are you doing this because you've found the vehicle does get too hot or because you're worried it might?

Interested to hear @JeffR's problems with headers, I'll add it to my list of reasons headers suck :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, ThreePointFive said:

The underbonnet temperatures are definitely high and I'm getting the sweats in even normal weather. The tune is part of that but it's also the exhausts, they are pretty famous for getting hot, hence Jeff's discovery.

Once I swapped back to cast iron manifolds and range rover/discovery downpipes, I never had that problem again

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy