defender dinky Posted March 20, 2021 Share Posted March 20, 2021 hi all, in the process of changing the valley gasket on my rrc v8 efi, is there anything else I should renew while in there, or is there a gasket kit I can buy, dd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon_CSK Posted March 20, 2021 Share Posted March 20, 2021 I would have a look at the camb shaft. A while ago I rebuilt the complete top end, took the heads off and reground the valves, new camb, timing chain and lifters. Best V8 I ever had. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 20, 2021 Share Posted March 20, 2021 3 hours ago, defender dinky said: hi all, in the process of changing the valley gasket on my rrc v8 efi, is there anything else I should renew while in there, or is there a gasket kit I can buy, dd Depends how much you want to spend really! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defender dinky Posted March 21, 2021 Author Share Posted March 21, 2021 The engine and gearbox are out and still connected, f reg,v8 3.5 efi, first registered 31/12/88, its original engine and box done 85,000, I'm rebuilding it because body is badly corroded, undecided yet weather to replace body, but would really like to repair and keep it original, it was a barn find, chassis already wheels are on it now, is there a step by step procedure how to do valley gasket and such like, dd 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 Valley gasket procedure will be in any manual - Haynes or Land Rover RAVE (free downloads all over the internet) for anything that's got a Rover V8 in. As you say you're rebuilding it the question is how far do you want to go - doing the valley gasket means you're half-way into doing a few other jobs / improvements such as replacing the camshaft & timing chain/gears or doing the head gaskets so it makes sense to think about those jobs / potential improvements before you put it back together with a shiny new gasket. As @Simon_CSK says you may well want to replace the cam & lifters - and for not much extra money/effort you can throw a high torque cam & duplex timing chain in there for a very worthwhile improvement. It does all add up eventually though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northwards Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 Interesting thread - and timely for me too as I've discovered a coolant leak at the back of my P38 V8 engine which appears to be coming from the back of the valley gasket. (Mine is a 4.0L Bosch/Thor engine) I got a valley gasket kit from Turner engineering, and I've also decided to do the head gaskets while I'm that far in. I've ordered a gasket set for the front cover too, and will just take a decision on that at the time, once things are stripped down and I can get a better look at it. If it looks in good nick I'll probably leave it. Though the car is 20 y/o it's only done 78k. I'll keep an eye on this though, as I could pick up some more hints and tips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defender dinky Posted March 22, 2021 Author Share Posted March 22, 2021 Hi, struggling to find access to torque convertor bolts, removed access panel 3 10mm bolts, all I can see is the tc dome removed starter motor only see flywheel, does the panel remove from behind the sump, as I can see a gasket, or shall I just remove gb as is? Dd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 Torque converter cover panel in fixed to the front face of the gearbox bellhousing, not the round 3 bolt plate on the underside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defender dinky Posted March 22, 2021 Author Share Posted March 22, 2021 Sorted that Bowie, took that plate off good access 17mm socket, glad I went further now, when separated found core plug leaking so that's another job but glad I found it now, having new full engine gasket kit, what I found on underside and up the sides was a lot of oil really caked on 3or4mm thick it was like tacky tar with a rusty brown colouring, would this be waxoil coating because it was only on the engine, dd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defender dinky Posted March 23, 2021 Author Share Posted March 23, 2021 Hi, is this chain had its day, if so which one is best to replace it, camshaft is fine so don't want to replace that,tried to send a video but it was to big, dd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 You may think the cam is fine, it I guarantee you it is worn, especially looking at the condition of the rest of the engine - it is very black inside, likely high mileage, and/or headgaskets blowing into the valley. A cam is cheap compared to all the other work you are doing, either standard 3.9 or go for a torquey aftermarket job. Chain is worn, so is sprocket, either go stock, or much preferably go cloyes double roller. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defender dinky Posted March 23, 2021 Author Share Posted March 23, 2021 Can I buy these items as a kit, would the 3.9 be ok as mine is 3.5, I would probably need step by step procedure not use to petrol engines, how do I download rave, dd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 A 3.9 cam is a nice upgrade for a 3.5, so yes, go for it. I'm sure you can get it is a kit, try Turners, V8tuner or the usual suspects. I don't use Rave, sorry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defender dinky Posted March 23, 2021 Author Share Posted March 23, 2021 I'll get searching then thks, dd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted March 24, 2021 Share Posted March 24, 2021 For completeness, I've always been a happy customer at V8 Tuner and they did complete kits with cam, timing gear and all gaskets needed. After Paul's dead his wife Pat has continued the business to preserve his legacy, the new website is https://www.v8tuning.co.uk/ Filip 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defender dinky Posted March 24, 2021 Author Share Posted March 24, 2021 More problems, lifters shot all of them in similar state,if I put this 3.9 camshaft in is there anything else I have to do, like bearings etc, or do I just slide it in, going to order one when I order lifters, dd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 24, 2021 Share Posted March 24, 2021 wow! They are SHOT.... Has that engine been left underwater at some point? No reason for them to pit like that. Are they dished on their face as well? If you change the lifters, you *MUST* change the cam, as they need to wear in together -be sure to follow the break in procedure. Inspect the bearing surfaces, but normally they are fine. If I had damage like that inside an engine, I would be pulling the big ends and main bearing caps to make sure things are OK there -again, cheap and easy to replace when you have the engine on the deck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defender dinky Posted March 24, 2021 Author Share Posted March 24, 2021 The faces are flat, it was in a barn when I bought it, last mot was 2008, tbh I'm enjoying the build and gaining good knowledge from you people which is a great help,dd 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 24, 2021 Share Posted March 24, 2021 Well done rescuing it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon_CSK Posted March 24, 2021 Share Posted March 24, 2021 With new lifters leave them submerged in engine oil overnight to allow them to fill the cavity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 25, 2021 Share Posted March 25, 2021 +1 for V8Tuner, honestly I would just buy all the bits - cam, chain, lifters, every gasket and any other bits they say you might need. They should supply the good stuff anyway but specifically the rubber rocker cover gaskets and the later composite valley & head gaskets are improvements. For a little extra luxury, ARP head studs are a nice thing and replacing the exhaust manifold bolts with studs + brass nuts - in both cases they allow better clamping and avoid the risk of stripping threads in the block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defender dinky Posted March 25, 2021 Author Share Posted March 25, 2021 Everything on order, full engine gasket set, lifters,camshaft,chain with new cogs,manifold studs good idea will sort, waiting on engine stand to come back, so I can turn it and check bottom end, how do you get the dipstick tube out the block could turn it with out stand if I could get that out, dd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 25, 2021 Share Posted March 25, 2021 Undo the screw that holds it to the rocker cover (I assume you have already done that), and pull/wiggle it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defender dinky Posted March 25, 2021 Author Share Posted March 25, 2021 Managed to turn engine on my workmate bench with engine crane, took few shells off for photos then replaced, I think they look OK, brown stains are just oil, dd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted March 25, 2021 Share Posted March 25, 2021 While you've got your wallet out you might as well pop some new piston rings on while you've got the thing pulled apart, and give the cylinders a quick hone.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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