tommobot Posted June 29, 2021 Share Posted June 29, 2021 Drove to billing at the weekend, all fine - not a problem. Did their off road track and for the first time engaged diff lock in this defender. Made quite a big difference and actually seemed to be working. Drive home, disengage, I know the levers are a bit flakey but it seemed to be out of diff lock. Drove like it was. Every now and then it had clucking from drivetrain but thought nothing off it. Nearly home and sharp right and sharp left turn, diff wound up and basically stopped the car. Reveresed. Got underneath, manualy clicked it, thought I think it was out anyway, but perhaps it was not quite? Drove fine again, jacked up wheels at weekend, no diff lock effects etc.. Drove today, and when coming to a stop when putting cluctch in, hell of a lot of clunking / jerking from gearbox / T box. May take off lever mech, and push the locking mechanism firmly over as it still maybe in diff lock slightly? I've done a couple of hundred miles and been bang on the money, first time touch diff lock goes a bit flakey, so I'm thinking it certainally could be to do with this. For absolute clarity, if I jack up 1 side of the car, spin both front and back wheels freely and can be ensured that diff lock is not engaged - Is this correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted June 29, 2021 Share Posted June 29, 2021 HB on , gearbox in neutral , jack one front and turn freely = out of difflock Clunking when pulling up with gearbox in neutral or clutch pedal down can often be the HB shoes dragging inside the drum - usually oil but can also happen with mud inside Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommobot Posted June 29, 2021 Author Share Posted June 29, 2021 39 minutes ago, steve b said: HB on , gearbox in neutral , jack one front and turn freely = out of difflock Clunking when pulling up with gearbox in neutral or clutch pedal down can often be the HB shoes dragging inside the drum - usually oil but can also happen with mud inside Steve To be fair, when I was looking underneath the car at the weekend, there seemed to be little to no play whatsoever in the rear prop with the car in neutral (hb off) which I thought was a bit odd, but thought nothing off it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted June 29, 2021 Share Posted June 29, 2021 Rear A frame ball joint? its a funny old clunk that sounds as if its transmission but its not. - wouldn't explain the other weird noises mind. - is the diff lock light working? as that is as good as any to show you if the diff lock is engaged or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommobot Posted June 29, 2021 Author Share Posted June 29, 2021 6 minutes ago, Maverik said: Rear A frame ball joint? its a funny old clunk that sounds as if its transmission but its not. - wouldn't explain the other weird noises mind. - is the diff lock light working? as that is as good as any to show you if the diff lock is engaged or not. This is my third defender, never had one where the diff lock light works... 🙄 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted June 29, 2021 Share Posted June 29, 2021 51 minutes ago, tommobot said: This is my third defender, never had one where the diff lock light works... 🙄 You see the diff lock switch actuates right off the diff lock mechanism, so if the light is on then its still locked etc. tbh I'd look at getting that working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 29, 2021 Share Posted June 29, 2021 The linkages can get worn/sloppy or just gunked up with age & lack of use - very easy to have one where you could engage it but not quite disengage it if the linkage slop stacks up just wrong. The little plastic top-hat bushes are often dead or missing. As always - start with the cheap & simple stuff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommobot Posted June 29, 2021 Author Share Posted June 29, 2021 So done a bit of digging. Diff lock light and wiring actually works!!! But wasn't connected, and switch was dead anyway. Easy fix. Took rear prop and handbrake drum off. Seemed very tight and restrictive, but not at all too bad inside. Perhaps could be wound back a bit .. Regarding the lt230, diff lock engages, restricts rotation as expected. Diff lock off ... Spins freely. However. When counter rotate there is a unpleasant, interlocking sound from within which doesn't sound clever at all!... Should I be hearing any sort of noise from within when turning clockwise and switching to anti clockwise etc..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Smith Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 Mainshaft splines? That's what my last defender sounded like when they started slipping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommobot Posted June 30, 2021 Author Share Posted June 30, 2021 I'll try and get a video of it later, but from reading last night I'm starting to fear it could be terminal for the LT230. I was contemplating looking for a 1.6 box, this may push forth this search ☹️ By the time I've rebuilt / repaired an existing box, and purchased a 1.6 final ratio I may aswell get a new box. Anyway, I'll try and get a video today to make sure i'm not getting too far ahead of myself.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommobot Posted June 30, 2021 Author Share Posted June 30, 2021 Prepare for a terrible video... https://photos.app.goo.gl/SyeRPsRxo15uocjX8 It doesn't really show it on the video, but its more 'notchy' for the first few mm of counter rotation, which in hindsight doens't actually seem so bad... Thoughts please... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommobot Posted June 30, 2021 Author Share Posted June 30, 2021 So took it for a spin with diff lock on, handbrake drum removed and rear prop off. Noise / clunking still as bad as ever, perhaps now even whining. My intuition suggests transfer box seeing as it's been working perfectly until touched diff lock .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommobot Posted June 30, 2021 Author Share Posted June 30, 2021 Just tried driving on the drive, driving with the lt230 in neutral... No clunks from driveline... Which again would further suggest transfer box.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommobot Posted June 30, 2021 Author Share Posted June 30, 2021 Front and rear prop off, lt230 in drive and no clunks when coming off power or on power, clutch in etc. . I would assume it doesnt have the effect of taking up slack from the props having their effect.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 For the price of a couple of litres of EP90 and some instant gasket you could have the bottom plate off the LT230 for a peek inside? May not show you everything but might show something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommobot Posted July 1, 2021 Author Share Posted July 1, 2021 https://photos.app.goo.gl/HsFnbaQPWWdZGr4K9 Thoughts please... All seems a bit 'loose'.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted July 2, 2021 Share Posted July 2, 2021 A bad UJ can make all sorts of noises, so I’d remove one prop at a time and test drive it before focusing on the transfer box. I’d also be careful to test under consistent conditions - testing on your driveway with both props off, so no load on the transmission at all, is not the same as driving a rough surface with diff lock engaged, where the transmission will be loaded and the surface will be banging the suspension and prop shafts about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted July 2, 2021 Share Posted July 2, 2021 12 minutes ago, Snagger said: A bad UJ can make all sorts of noises, so I’d remove one prop at a time and test drive it before focusing on the transfer box. I’d also be careful to test under consistent conditions - testing on your driveway with both props off, so no load on the transmission at all, is not the same as driving a rough surface with diff lock engaged, where the transmission will be loaded and the surface will be banging the suspension and prop shafts about. I think its a bit late for that... I think the box is out the vehicle watching the video... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommobot Posted July 2, 2021 Author Share Posted July 2, 2021 48 minutes ago, Snagger said: A bad UJ can make all sorts of noises, so I’d remove one prop at a time and test drive it before focusing on the transfer box. I’d also be careful to test under consistent conditions - testing on your driveway with both props off, so no load on the transmission at all, is not the same as driving a rough surface with diff lock engaged, where the transmission will be loaded and the surface will be banging the suspension and prop shafts about. The way it was clattering through the gearbox, and whole car I'd be pretty damn confident it wasn't a UJ. I'd took rear prop off, and noise was still present. Also, the noise / knocking only started after putting diff lock on, it had been fine up until that point.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommobot Posted July 24, 2021 Author Share Posted July 24, 2021 (edited) So replacement 1.6 box on... Did first few miles ok , now doing exactly the same as the old one. Can't believe that this is marketed in the same way, so where else can I look..? Could it be the handbrake? Edit... Rewatching videos regarding the handbrake it could be a touch tight maybe? When coasting to a stop in neutral a tiny tiny bit of the same but nowhere near the same. Seems to happen when slowing in 1,2 or 3 and gets progressively worse with more use.. Edited July 24, 2021 by tommobot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonb Posted July 24, 2021 Share Posted July 24, 2021 (edited) As other's have said, have you actually changed the propshaft(s) UJs? They are the cheapest bit of the drive train and difficult to test by hand - unless completely seized. It's only an hour job per shaft to change the UJs. Check also the sliding joints. Then if you haven't already checked: engine/gearbox mounts, exhaust not touching chassis, A Frame and axle bushes, shock absorber rubbers, drive flanges at wheels for wear, and excessive diff wear. Also check all the wheel bearings, jack wheel up, grasp at top and bottom and push/pull the wheel, and then repeat at 3&9 o clock, there should be no movement. Is your vehicle disc braked on the rear? Check the pads are secure in the calliper, with all the clips in place and there isn't wear in the calliper which allows the pads to move slightly circumferentially around the disc. If drum braked at rear, take the drums off and check nothing is adrift - stones/mud jamming up the shoes. Edited July 24, 2021 by simonb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommobot Posted July 24, 2021 Author Share Posted July 24, 2021 57 minutes ago, simonb said: As other's have said, have you actually changed the propshaft(s) UJs? They are the cheapest bit of the drive train and difficult to test by hand - unless completely seized. It's only an hour job per shaft to change the UJs. Check also the sliding joints. Then if you haven't already checked: engine/gearbox mounts, exhaust not touching chassis, A Frame and axle bushes, shock absorber rubbers, drive flanges at wheels for wear, and excessive diff wear. Also check all the wheel bearings, jack wheel up, grasp at top and bottom and push/pull the wheel, and then repeat at 3&9 o clock, there should be no movement. Is your vehicle disc braked on the rear? Check the pads are secure in the calliper, with all the clips in place and there isn't wear in the calliper which allows the pads to move slightly circumferentially around the disc. If drum braked at rear, take the drums off and check nothing is adrift - stones/mud jamming up the shoes. That's pretty good advice thanks! The Ujs were replaced last year I think, when I took them off they didn't seem to bad at all. Ill have a look throughout, when I took the handbrake drum off, it was free, but not freespinning... Which in hindsight it looks like it needs to be!!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommobot Posted July 29, 2021 Author Share Posted July 29, 2021 For completion, I've had a look at the handbrake. Its one of the early rod link type ones, and seems a bit of a pain to adjust neatly. Anyways, I've wound it right back off entirely, so that there is no resistance at all... Done a few miles in it and no hint of the clunking etc that was occuring before so hopefully combined with the new TF box, and slacker handbrake I'm sorted for a bit! Thanks for the help as ever guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawklord Posted July 29, 2021 Share Posted July 29, 2021 I had the same problem with my handbrake binding and it is not pleasant to drive and due to the fact that the handbrake hardly ever worked because of oil leaking from the rear transfer box seal and contaminating the brake shoes I replaced the drum with a disc conversion and that is probably the best modification I have done to my Defender. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.