Fuel tank sealer ?

[smallfry]

Does anyone have any experience of using any of these fuel tank sealers to "repair" pinholes in a leaking fuel tank ?

Although not on a Land Rover, it so easily could be !

It all started with a nice easy fuel filter change on one of my old tractors, I'm sure you are all aware of the five minute job mission creep.

I started by dropping the old element type CAV filter into a small hand bowl. I didnt bother to drain it via the water drain cock first, and this is where it all started going wrong. The tractor has a gravity fed system, so unlike a LR, the fuel outlet of the tank is at the bottom, where a shut off tap is installed. My little bowl would easily hold the contents of the fuel filter, so didnt think to turn off the fuel tap first. Anyway, the fuel just kept coming, so I went to turn off the tap. No chance. The head broke off. 

So there I was, bowl over flowing and no way to turn off the fuel, and knowing there was at least ten gallons in the tank. The only thing near to hand was a bucket of water which was five feet away, so I had to put down the bowl and quickly chuck the water away and put the bucket under the filter while trying to find something bigger before the bucket overflowed. Of course, every available container that I could think of had something in it, and mindful that my bucket would be overflowing shortly, I came across the coolbox in the kitchen, which saved the day. Luckily SWMBO was out.

Anyway, while waiting for the tank to drain, I noticed a small diesel weep on the bottom of the tank, so I thought I would "quickly" whip out the tank, and solder up the pinhole. As a prelude to this, I looked into the tank, and saw there was sludge in the bottom (it is 45 years old) so would clean it as it was out. After I had steam cleaned it I saw there was rust under the sludge, so then used some Bilt Hamber Deox to remove it, as I couldnt possibly put it back as it was.

After all this was done, I held the tank up to the sunlight and looked through the gauge sender hole. It was just like looking at the sky on a clear night. I know of the existence of these tank sealers, but have never used it. It seems to be aimed mostly at the Motorcycle market and is supplied in relatively small quantities, also, all the sales blurb mentions petrol, but not diesel fuel.

I emailed a couple of manufacturers, but they both stated that while the product was diesel proof, they could not recommend is usage on such a large tank, because it must have complete coverage or it does not work properly. So I wondered if anyone else has any experience in the long term ? All these things a bodge really, but a new tank is not available unfortunately. Last known price was £600 in any case.

Could I use something else, like a fibreglass resin maybe. I know JB weld do a tank patch for the outside, but I wanted to seal/cover the inside too.

Only other option I guess, is to cut out  and weld in a new bottom.

[Bowie69]

The POR instructions mention a product called POR Patch for patching slightly bigger holes, and this kit is for a 15 gallon tank:

https://www.frost.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/File-1551709782.pdf

https://www.frost.co.uk/por15-professional-big-fuel-car-tank-repair-sealer-kit/

Sadly no mention of diesel,but I guess there's a lot less of them that rust out than petrol. If its not one you have tried it's maybe worth an email?

[Gazzar]

Weld in new steel to base, seal weld with solder, use a tank liner kit, tapox, por, caswells etc to prevent reoccurrence. Or, as diesel, drain tank annually to remove water in diesel settling in base of tank. Coat outside with dynax.

A mechanical structural fix is better, I think, than chemical. Especially with the flex tanks endure.

[Gazzar]

Oh, and keep tank full to avoid  condensation.

[muddy]

If you plan on keeping it I would suggest a proper repair, what tractor is it?

 

 

[Eightpot]

I've used POR15 tank sealer on a 30 yr old fiat panda 4x4 tank that was badly rusted with a leaking seam and hundreds of pinholes as replacement tanks weren't available.

I followed the instructions and used the excess to paint additional layers on over the worst bits - four years on it's still leak free and looking good. 

[miketomcat]

Por 15 tank sealer is fine with diesel I painted 45's tank with it inside and out when we had it. I've also done the front tank on the 110 inside and out because it had a small weep and you can't get them anymore.

Don't use fibreglass unless you can line the entire of the tank, essentially making a fibreglass tank inside and even then don't. Fairey power boats used to fibreglass over an aluminium tank now they all have diesel between the aluminium and fibreglass and need to be replaced.

Mike 

[smallfry]

9 hours ago, miketomcat said:

Por 15 tank sealer is fine with diesel I painted 45's tank with it inside and out when we had it. I've also done the front tank on the 110 inside and out because it had a small weep and you can't get them anymore.

Don't use fibreglass unless you can line the entire of the tank, essentially making a fibreglass tank inside and even then don't. Fairey power boats used to fibreglass over an aluminium tank now they all have diesel between the aluminium and fibreglass and need to be replaced.

Mike 

Thanks for the advice re fibreglass resin Mike, sort of confirms my reservations about using it, so will give it a miss.

[smallfry]

On 10/29/2022 at 10:22 AM, muddy said:

If you plan on keeping it I would suggest a proper repair, what tractor is it?

 

 

Its a Ford 333 which is a highways tractor based on a 3600. They have slightly different gearing, foot throttle, full road lighting with dipping headlights (when it was new) and a speedometer and originally painted yellow. Although a previous owner (or dealer) has gone to a lot of effort to make it blue. Probably because blue Ag are apparently worth more. 

[smallfry]

My biggest concern with using a sealer is that it is a lot of money wasted if it doesnt work. All the suppliers say that you cannot do a second coat, as it will not adhere properly, and requires stripping, costing even more money.

Another concern is that if the tank needs welding or soldering at a later date, will it still be able to be done. Would a stripper actually remove enough of it ? I am sure many of you have tried welding through rust, powder coat, or paint ? Or worse still, rustproofing waxes.

So all things considered, I am going to try and weld in a new bottom, which will not be easy because of the shape, a flange seam, which will be hard to replicate, and having to braze in a new boss for the outlet tap to screw into. No brazing gear.

If it all goes wrong there is another option,  There were two tanks, one for cab models (mine) and one without. The one without is available on non genuine only. It is a slightly different shape and the fuel filler is in a different place. I would have to blank off the filler, and cut a new hole in a different place, and graft on my old filler neck, again brazing would be preferable I guess but as I said, no brazing gear. Might end up time to buy some.

[Stellaghost]

1 hour ago, smallfry said:

 but as I said, no brazing gear. Might end up time to buy some.

Silver solder and a half decent propane torch will get you there regards Stephen