Sabre Posted December 20, 2022 Share Posted December 20, 2022 I overhauled my D1 300 Tdi engine during covid, then needed a few odds and ends that I could not get. The engine then stood for about 2 years. I have now found that the engine is very difficult to turn over when I try to turn it on the crank pulley bolt. I have already filled the engine with oil, and want to turn over the engine to get oil through the bearings, and onto cylinder walls. Can I give a squirt or two of oil through the injector or glow plug holes ? (These are not fitted yet, which makes the difficult turning even more of a mystery). And, how does the oil pump prime ? Would it simply suck up the oil from the sump ? Would appreciate your advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B reg 90 Posted December 20, 2022 Share Posted December 20, 2022 Corrosion on the cylinder walls? Try using a mini snake camera to have a look through the injector opening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted December 21, 2022 Share Posted December 21, 2022 Yes you can put oil in through the injector holes but turn it over slowly after as you can hydraulic it if you add to much. Try using ATF as it's nice and thin but also has rust eating properties. Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabre Posted December 21, 2022 Author Share Posted December 21, 2022 19 hours ago, B reg 90 said: Corrosion on the cylinder walls? Try using a mini snake camera to have a look through the injector opening. Sourcing one would be rather difficult, but I will keep that in mind. Thanks for the idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabre Posted December 21, 2022 Author Share Posted December 21, 2022 10 hours ago, miketomcat said: Yes you can put oil in through the injector holes but turn it over slowly after as you can hydraulic it if you add to much. Try using ATF as it's nice and thin but also has rust eating properties. Mike I will try that, sounds like a good idea. Appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallfry Posted December 21, 2022 Share Posted December 21, 2022 11 hours ago, miketomcat said: Yes you can put oil in through the injector holes but turn it over slowly after as you can hydraulic it if you add to much. Try using ATF as it's nice and thin but also has rust eating properties. Mike I have just done this on an old Fordson engine. It was a little bit stiff to turn over and had very little compression (this is a story in itself ending with no eyelashes and eyebrows) but it worked. Left for a week, it started almost immediately, and now had lots of compression. However, I do not like disturbing the injectors or seals, so always apply the ATF with a syringe and piece of pipe via the inlet and/or exhaust ports after removing the manifolds. Did you try turning it over during the rebuild ? Was it stiff then ? Rebuilt or new engines are harder to turn than well used ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted December 21, 2022 Share Posted December 21, 2022 I'd probably inject down the glow plug holes to be fair. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabre Posted December 21, 2022 Author Share Posted December 21, 2022 1 hour ago, smallfry said: I have just done this on an old Fordson engine. It was a little bit stiff to turn over and had very little compression (this is a story in itself ending with no eyelashes and eyebrows) but it worked. Left for a week, it started almost immediately, and now had lots of compression. However, I do not like disturbing the injectors or seals, so always apply the ATF with a syringe and piece of pipe via the inlet and/or exhaust ports after removing the manifolds. Did you try turning it over during the rebuild ? Was it stiff then ? Rebuilt or new engines are harder to turn than well used ones. Whilst rebuilding, I continuously turned the engine. After fitting main bearings and after fitting pistons and con rods. All components were well oiled before installation. I will definitely try the ATF advice. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallfry Posted December 21, 2022 Share Posted December 21, 2022 Another thing that has come to mind from past experience ......... Has it got a flywheel on it ? If so check there is nothing like a piece of rag or a dead mouse stuck behind the flywheel between it, and the housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabre Posted December 23, 2022 Author Share Posted December 23, 2022 On 12/21/2022 at 11:52 PM, smallfry said: Another thing that has come to mind from past experience ......... Has it got a flywheel on it ? If so check there is nothing like a piece of rag or a dead mouse stuck behind the flywheel between it, and the housing. Already bolted to gearbox...... I'm pretty sure it went clean into the bell housing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alsace_rangie Posted December 25, 2022 Share Posted December 25, 2022 On 12/23/2022 at 9:47 PM, Sabre said: Already bolted to gearbox...... Don't want to be funny, but: Is that where the new resistance to turning is coming from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabre Posted December 25, 2022 Author Share Posted December 25, 2022 2 hours ago, Alsace_rangie said: Don't want to be funny, but: Is that where the new resistance to turning is coming from? Not funny at all, I need all the ideas that I can get. I am not sure where the resistance is coming from. G/box and Tx are in neutral, (both newly reconditioned) so that eliminates resistance from that area. I'm going to try the ATF; that is the easiest starting point. If there is no improvement, I will need to look further Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurbie Posted December 25, 2022 Share Posted December 25, 2022 have you tried to turn the engine when you put the gearboxes's on , it could be there's something binding when mating the two together . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted December 25, 2022 Share Posted December 25, 2022 1 hour ago, Sabre said: G/box and Tx are in neutral, You'll still be turning the input shaft gear, and the lay shaft -is the gearbox reconned....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted December 26, 2022 Share Posted December 26, 2022 If the transmission has been overhauled there will be more resistance there than if it were an older, well run in unit (even more so if the gear and transfer box have oil in them). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabre Posted December 31, 2022 Author Share Posted December 31, 2022 On 12/26/2022 at 12:05 AM, Bowie69 said: You'll still be turning the input shaft gear, and the lay shaft -is the gearbox reconned....? Jip, both Gbox and Tx were reconned Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabre Posted December 31, 2022 Author Share Posted December 31, 2022 On 12/26/2022 at 5:34 PM, Happyoldgit said: If the transmission has been overhauled there will be more resistance there than if it were an older, well run in unit (even more so if the gear and transfer box have oil in them). Both reconned, and filled with oil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallfry Posted January 1, 2023 Share Posted January 1, 2023 I take it that its not in gear ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabre Posted January 4, 2023 Author Share Posted January 4, 2023 On 1/1/2023 at 11:42 AM, smallfry said: I take it that its not in gear ? Nope, first thing I checked. And rear propshaft not connected Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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