elbekko Posted May 23, 2023 Author Share Posted May 23, 2023 3 hours ago, Ed Poore said: What was the final weight in the end? I know mild is just over the £1k/tonne here but if it's an offcut paid for by another job then it's just profit. I'd need to check, but I think overall around 34kg? The other place I got a quote from always counts full plates, and could only do S235. They quoted €1.89/kg for 3mm and €1.82/kg for 5mm plate. The place I ordered from now is probably so cheap because it's an offcut. Not sure how he deals with it, but I'm guessing the 3mm stuff was all from the same plate, as the price barely increased when I added the skidplate that I had forgotten to send in at first. And that price increase was for the extra bend I think 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wytze Posted May 23, 2023 Share Posted May 23, 2023 2 hours ago, Ed Poore said: What was the final weight in the end? I know mild is just over the £1k/tonne here but if it's an offcut paid for by another job then it's just profit. Good nesting bring's good profit. The press brake work can be a bit of a pain if the roller direction is all over the place in the cut pieces Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted May 23, 2023 Share Posted May 23, 2023 2 hours ago, Wytze said: Good nesting bring's good profit. The press brake work can be a bit of a pain if the roller direction is all over the place in the cut pieces I had some stainless bits cut for a mate..... they were nested inside rings of 3mm stainless that were about the size of a smallish hoola hoop.... and only ~10mm wide all round crazy material cost for them, but everything cut in the middle was extra profit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wytze Posted May 23, 2023 Share Posted May 23, 2023 44 minutes ago, landroversforever said: I had some stainless bits cut for a mate..... they were nested inside rings of 3mm stainless that were about the size of a smallish hoola hoop.... and only ~10mm wide all round crazy material cost for them, but everything cut in the middle was extra profit! Stainless does use a bit of power. The smaller the stuff you need, the more time they need, because of heat build up. You will pay for the extra time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted June 6, 2023 Author Share Posted June 6, 2023 Picked up some goodies today 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted June 6, 2023 Author Share Posted June 6, 2023 ... and now with unloading noticed they didn't cut out the mounting holes for the winch and fairlead No huge deal to drill out myself, but too bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wytze Posted June 6, 2023 Share Posted June 6, 2023 54 minutes ago, elbekko said: ... and now with unloading noticed they didn't cut out the mounting holes for the winch and fairlead No huge deal to drill out myself, but too bad. A bit more work then😬 Nice to see it get build and mounted. Ooh, and how the vevor will cope Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted June 6, 2023 Share Posted June 6, 2023 1 hour ago, elbekko said: ... and now with unloading noticed they didn't cut out the mounting holes for the winch and fairlead No huge deal to drill out myself, but too bad. That’s a shame. I’d suspect a boo-boo with the cad file. I had a strange one where I’d mirrored something by accident essentially filling the holes back in for the model Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted June 6, 2023 Share Posted June 6, 2023 I know with Inventor threads aren't actually modelled per se (they're just stored as the thread to be cut) so if you export the STL and 3d print something you don't get the thread printed normally (I think). Perhaps the way you created the hole did something similar, I.e. It's marked it as a point with a hole dimension and thus not actually drawn a circle for the laser to cut out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted June 6, 2023 Author Share Posted June 6, 2023 I'd have to double check the DXFs, but I'm sure they were modelled as cut out. I guess they just forgot to select those lines as lines to cut. The slot for the rope was modelled in the same sketch and was cut out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted June 6, 2023 Share Posted June 6, 2023 1 hour ago, Ed Poore said: I know with Inventor threads aren't actually modelled per se (they're just stored as the thread to be cut) so if you export the STL and 3d print something you don't get the thread printed normally (I think). Perhaps the way you created the hole did something similar, I.e. It's marked it as a point with a hole dimension and thus not actually drawn a circle for the laser to cut out. Catia is the same. Saves computing power on large assemblies. You just get a plain hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted June 8, 2023 Author Share Posted June 8, 2023 Started on the build yesterday evening. First dry fit on the floor: As you can see, a few minor issues The hole for the freespool lever is too far forward - entirely my modelling (and measuring) error. The winch was a pig to measure, and it shows The cradle is a few mm too short, so the top and bottom plates touch the winch body. A 1.5mm washer each side seems to solve that, so will just weld it up with a bit of a gap, no biggie. Bigger issue is the freespool lever housing, that sticks up more than I thought, and is an issue for getting the winch in place. May have to tickle it with the grinder somehow... Either way, nothing a grinder and a welder can't solve. Carrying on with some fit-up on the car: Looking pretty decent. Took a little trimming around some weld seams on the chassis, and a notch out of the top plate to clear the washer reservoir. The inner wings will need some trimming for tyre clearance. The ends are also hanging low since they're not supported yet. And the body will need pulling straight, as the bumper is square but the body isn't After these pictures were taken, we drilled the holes in the cradle for mounting the winch, and fit that up. Forgot to take pictures of that part. Need to go buy some bolts too. More to come later on @Escape was kind enough to lend me a car to get home with, so I can take my time finishing this up. Something interesting I noted: the cradle feels light. Not sure if that's due to the S355 steel, or what, but for a huge chunk of 5mm plate it feels surprisingly light. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted June 8, 2023 Share Posted June 8, 2023 Is it worth filling in the hole for the freespool and go for an air one? Coming along nicely though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted June 8, 2023 Author Share Posted June 8, 2023 41 minutes ago, landroversforever said: Is it worth filling in the hole for the freespool and go for an air one? Interesting proposition. How easy is that to do with the type that needs to turn 180°? Worth looking into... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 8, 2023 Share Posted June 8, 2023 The ones that turn 180 actually just use a cam to lift the pin against a spring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted June 8, 2023 Author Share Posted June 8, 2023 No, this one moves the ring gear with an offset pin on the end that goes in a groove on the ring gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 8, 2023 Share Posted June 8, 2023 Ah OK, quite different then! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted June 8, 2023 Author Share Posted June 8, 2023 Indeed. I wonder if I can come up with some other way of doing that linear motion on the ring gear. Because it feels sort of silly to go linear -> rotary -> linear. Maybe just some sort of push/pull bowden cable that peeks out of the grille somewhere. Damn feature creep, I don't have time for this! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted June 8, 2023 Author Share Posted June 8, 2023 Literal back-of-the-envelope sketch of how the current system could be adapted. Bowden cable wrapped around a pulley, with a spring pulling around the pulley in the other direction for the return. Would need a locking mechanism though, or a second cable to do the other direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted June 8, 2023 Share Posted June 8, 2023 Ahhh that’s a pain. All the ones I’ve looked at just use the turn to lift the mechanism. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted June 8, 2023 Share Posted June 8, 2023 You can get push-pull bowden cables. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted June 8, 2023 Author Share Posted June 8, 2023 Just now, Ed Poore said: You can get push-pull bowden cables. Yes, but can you have them go around 180 degrees? That would be the easiest way to adapt this without modifying the gearbox a lot, I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted June 8, 2023 Share Posted June 8, 2023 Don't forget any actuator will also need some space. You could clock the gearbox, so the actuator is on the back though. Just need a good way of routing the cable or whatever. Remember we tried a cable operated freespool on Mouse, and that let go in one of the mudholes at Inor... As for the bumper, you might have a first customer for a second one already. It really looks promising! I'd simplify and add lightness, of course. 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted June 8, 2023 Author Share Posted June 8, 2023 12 minutes ago, Escape said: Remember we tried a cable operated freespool on Mouse, and that let go in one of the mudholes at Inor... Mostly because we bodged it together instead of using a proper Bowden cable kit, no? 13 minutes ago, Escape said: Don't forget any actuator will also need some space. You could clock the gearbox, so the actuator is on the back though. Just need a good way of routing the cable or whatever. Yup, plenty of room behind the winch, with the gearbox clocked back in the "normal" position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted June 8, 2023 Share Posted June 8, 2023 1 hour ago, elbekko said: Yes, but can you have them go around 180 degrees? That would be the easiest way to adapt this without modifying the gearbox a lot, I think. Why do you need them to go around 180°? What I was thinking was to machine up an outer sheath that sits over your pulley (in the diagram above) so guide the cable as you have done. That's presumably going to just be a lump of aluminium or something with a hole drilled in the centre of it so that it can fit. Maybe this illustrates the idea - Bowden cable enters the right hand side hole on the vertical face (and can be suitably fixed somewhere near there), gets wrapped around the internal pulley and fixed on the left hand side where you can see a "dowel" hole going through vertically. Would work best I think if the bowden cable is a tightish fit within the groove on the pulley so there's no room for it to wander off course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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