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LT77 mainshaft LT230 input gear wear


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Ordered parts for the transfercase overhaul which should arrive next week, in the meantime I set up the case in preparation for bushing the intermediate shaft.

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Will also replace the intermediate shaft with a heavy duty one as the original was worn. I think the collapsible sleeve was contributing to this as is was crushed unevenly and the wear on the shaft was on one side only.

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Cool. I know that job very well. How did you center the mill? I built a shaft, which sits in the mill an has the diameter of the old drilling. It only fits in the rests of the original drilling and aligns it with the mill.

 

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1 hour ago, Sigi_H said:

Cool. I know that job very well. How did you center the mill? I built a shaft, which sits in the mill an has the diameter of the old drilling. It only fits in the rests of the original drilling and aligns it with the mill.

 

I used a dial guage mounted on the spindle, clocked it on the central part where the o-ring on the shaft mates with the hole in the casing as that's the unworn area in the hole.

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Edited by muzaz
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Started early this morning as the heat will become unbearable later on. Machined the transfer case to accept the bush for the intermediate shaft. Left the hole 0.02mm undersize as recommended on the Ashcroft site and will attempt to fit the bush later. Put it in the freezer hoping it will shrink slightly as I don't have a press 🥴

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1 hour ago, Snagger said:

You can also put the casing in the oven to 150 deg or so to expand it.

Or, looking at the weather forecast, simply leave it on the doorstep for an hour or so...

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1 hour ago, Snagger said:

You can also put the casing in the oven to 150 deg or so to expand it.

That would be ideal but I got a problem, Ashcroft's HD intermediate shaft will be available mid August so I ordered from Synchro Gearboxes but apparently their shaft is interference fit in the bush. I do not wish to disturb the alignment just incase I have to skim the bush.

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34 minutes ago, Junglie said:

Or, looking at the weather forecast, simply leave it on the doorstep for an hour or so...

Good idea! Leave it for Tuesday 🥵 40°c 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Update: HD intermediate shaft from Synchro Gearboxes arrived, had to fettle it a bit to make it fit in the bush as it's just slightly over size, also chamfered the flat so it doesn't catch the o-ring.

Rather than the crush tube I went for a solid tube to set the intermediate shaft bearings preload, having a lathe means I could adjust the tube length easily.

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Now it's assembly of the case. I adjusted the diff preload and then assembled the intermediate gear clusterin the case. I'm noting that now with the diff installed the turning resistance is significantly increased. Is there a value of how much this should be? I put a string on the intermediate gear and I'm getting roughly 5 to 6kg force where as without the diff it was 2kg.

It does not feel notchy or too stiff to turn, but It's not free wheeling. Any thoughts?

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my advice would be to find a LT230 manual , you can find these online.

this has all the torque value's in 

 

the older the manual the beter , as newer manuals don't state the trick with the rope spun around the gear to measure the resistance. in the newer manuals you need special tools to get the right resistane/preload measured.

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Can't open them, says access restricted.

I used the manual from Ashcroft website, but that's requiring some special tooling etc. But what I gathered is that for new bearings you always need 0.05mm of preload, so I individually set the diff, the intermediate cluster and the input gear to 0.05mm preload.

 

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13 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Ok I managed to open those manuals, thanks. 

From what I gathered the diff needs 4.5kg or 1.69nm preload. The input needs 9kg or 2.25nm but you need an adapter. The intermediate needs 3kg on top of what was measured at the input.

Fairly complicated and at least one tool is required (LST 105) to do it by the book. If I knew the diameter of the tool I could possibly machine one and do it right. In the absence of the tool I will do it by feel, not too loose not too tight! After all looking at the values in the manual it seems to be quite tight!

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Yes I noticed...after a while 🫣

So, doing the final assembly and going over the last bits I notice something coming out of the intermediate shaft where I installed the bush...a sliver of the o-ring!! Now I've heared it's possible to damage the o-ring but at the other end! 

Took the shaft out again, finessed it with sandpaper made sure no burrs etc, put a new seal and re-installed...seal damaged again, same exact damage. Ended up installing a smaller seal and this time it was ok. I suspect the new HD pin has a slightly oversize seal groove which does not leave enough space for seal compression.

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That new HD pin does not sound like it's been very well made :huh:

44 minutes ago, muzaz said:

I suspect the new HD pin has a slightly oversize seal groove which does not leave enough space for seal compression.

On 8/5/2023 at 2:16 PM, muzaz said:

HD intermediate shaft from Synchro Gearboxes arrived, had to fettle it a bit to make it fit in the bush as it's just slightly over size, also chamfered the flat so it doesn't catch the o-ring.

 

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2 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

That new HD pin does not sound like it's been very well made :huh:

 

Hmm... don't know, been in contact with Shabs at Syncro and told me they do them interference fit on purpose so there's no movement at all. But to install something like that you'd need liquid nitrogen.

Anyway, I think my fix should hopefully work without leaking...time will tell.

Transfer case all assembled now, just need to install the engine, gearbox and case 🥵

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You may not want to hear or do this now. Some will consider it a bodge but as well as the o rings i would smother the end of that inyermediate shaft in some hylomar or similar for extra reassurance! You can drift it out without dismantling but it could risk disturbing your o rings. 

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8 hours ago, reb78 said:

You may not want to hear or do this now. Some will consider it a bodge but as well as the o rings i would smother the end of that inyermediate shaft in some hylomar or similar for extra reassurance! You can drift it out without dismantling but it could risk disturbing your o rings. 

No worries, thought of that. The yellowish stuff you see on the head is non hardening jointing compound, applied to both ends. I doubt it will ever leak as the pin is really tight and then there's the seal. 

 

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Gearbox and transfer case bolted together and mated to the engine. I'm surprised I didn't end up with the odd extra bolt and nut!

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The transfer case linkage caused me some head scratching as I forgot how it went in and didn't take any photos before removing. But it now seems to operate correctly.

The clutch release bearing clip also gave me a hard time, I installed a LOF clutch and the spring clip was different to the standard. The clip insisted on sliding off the fork. But there's no other way to put it on and after contacting Lof - btw they were really helpful, I sort of convinced myself it's in the right place.

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Now I only hope I did a good job and everything works out fine, fingers crossed!  🤞 

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