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Series oil pan gasket on a 200 Tdi

Little mule

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Hi everyone 

I’m looking to find out if a 2.25 oil pan gasket will fit a 200 Tdi engine between the ladder frame  and will the oil pan gasket fit the 2,25 oil pan .

im in the process of putting a 200 Tdi back together and the process has had its ups and down lol 

anyways the parts manual does list a 5mb Petrol and diesel along with the 2.5 N/A but NOT and TD . I thought the 2.5 N/A and TD both had the same bolt pattern

so you would think the gasket for the 2.5 N/A would fit a TD 

If anyone has some info I would love to read about this sort of problem lol .

I hate using silly goo especially on the oil pan and the ladder frame. 
over  the years I have found oil based products like gear oil and engine oil will eat the silly goo faster.

I do use a product called lock-tite 515 so far my engine I have  dont leak at all 

it’s expensive but it never leaks . It doesn’t get hard and stay soft forever. You know if you take the cap off  a RTV tubs it will dry out and turn hard inside the tube.the lock-tite never gets had it stays very playable .

when you use it you can take off things like oil pan gaskets and valve cover gaskets if you use them .

I have used it on a rear diff a cpl times on the trail and it fantastic we didn’t even wait fo it to get tacky we just installed the diff and we’re on our way .

anyways if anyone has any info this gasket please give me a shout cheers 



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Not really sure but comparing the 2 gaskets would make it easy to see.

But why the different pan ?

Think you'll need to add an oil pick up for the turbo..

Seriously good build though !!

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If you use suitable silicone gasket maker then it is absolutely fine in oil, I tend to use the squirty cans these days, it stays uncured in the can for a year or more and has a variable rate when dispensing, Wynns or Granville make them, as well as others no doubt. 

As for the 200tdi, I'd be following what the book says, and that may be sealant rather than a gasket. 

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This lock-tite has to be the best stuff I ever came across.

we used it in the military to seal up the hub covers . The part gad a machined faces with 515 applied no leaks at all .

GM told us to use only 510/515 on all drive parts that had a machines face as there were no gaskets for the planetary gears just a cover

Damn engineers lol 

I have been using it ever since I opened my shop is 07. And while I was I’m the military for,25 years.

the oil pan on a 200 looks to be shorter in Hightower than a NA and so on. 

A good thing about the ladder frame is it makes the bottom half of the block to be much stronger just like a 4.6 rover with side main bearing bolts.

I know the crank shaft is interchangeable between and 2.5 P 2.5 na, a 2.5 turbo and a 200.

even if I can only find a gasket for the ladder frame to block gasket I’ll have to settle for some good old 515 .



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If the sealant is disintegrating in contact with oil, it must be the incorrect grade.  You should be using a decent RTV sealant.  Use it sparingly on the raised line between and around the bolt holes on the sump, not a thick bead over the whole flange, so that the bead squeezes laterally between the sump and ladder frame without oozing past the joint much to form a roll of goop that can detach and gum anything up.  There should be little excess squeeze out of the joints when you tighten the bolts.

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I use Loctite 598 for general goop and 574 which is a sealant that can live submerged in petrol. I tend to stick to stuff made by grown-ups and sold though industrial suppliers as they are most likely to work as advertised.

Cheap silicone and other instant gasket stuff (or worse, non-setting brightly coloured goops) I avoid entirely, I've never seen anything good done with them.

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I have run into way too many problems with regular RTV from plugged oil pickups to drain plugs not allowing oil to drain out of the oil pan . I have also drilled out a lot of drive flange bolt holes because someone just used RTV with no gasket and plugged the bottom of the hole and the bolts won’t tighten up . It you use the $0.50 cent gasket and a little bit of RTV then you can get away with it . 

 With most older RTV sealants they were not O2 sensor safe , I believe now they are all O2 sensor safe .


they changed to shape of the oil pan on the 200 because they used the ladder bridge which is taller than a regular oil pan .

I suppose I could use a 2.5 NA oil pan if the bolt pattern is the same but that would defeat the purpose of the ladder bridge.

the oil pump is the same and you have to remove part of the pump just to get the ladder bridge out or install it 
I like using gaskets for my customers because some of them live 500 miles away and I don’t want any tow calls because of leaks and do the job twice.

I'm in the process of building a run up stand over the winter to break in engines before they go out the door or installed into the truck . I also always put about 250 miles on them to make sure they are working properly and things settle in to where they need to . I then give them their first oil change and valves adjusted before they leave . Once I have the engine broke in I’ll then let it go home . My customers appreciate it because some of them don’t turn wrenches , I try to teach them but they usually leave it to me to fix and adjust . Most just want to get in and drive not maintain or fix any problems . 
I stopped going to most or our rally’s totally because I could never get on the trails and have some fun because everyone wanted work done on their trucks it never stops sometimes . by the time you have their truck fixed there is another one broken . 

we had a guy at a rally break his truck 500 meters on the first trail . He hit a rock so had with the bellhousing cross member he tore it open and shoved the transmission up so hard up wards he drove the fan through the radiator . The truck was a EX military 109 so it had the 8 blade steel fan and it tor the radiator out . It took us about 6 hours to tow him out and get him to a road so we could come back and get it later in the day with my trailer .

the damage was astronomical. He even bent a front chassis spring horn . It took me about two months to get it stripped down to a bare chassis and take it to the welding shop to have all the welding done and the chassis straightened . 

I have a gasket set comming in this week for a 2.5 NA to see if the oil pan gasket for the 2.5 NA will fit the ladder bridge where it meets the block.

the 200 is also in a LHD 1963 109 with the series drive train and a high ratio Ashcroft T case . 
the 200 does have the power to pull it and the truck will keep up to pretty much any rover out there lol.


this is why I use lock-tite 515 it doesn’t leak at all . I agree with you there is the right RTV for a particular purpose .

if I’m in a pinch and need to let’s say do a diff cover gasket I’ll use regular RTV if I don’t have any 515 or a gasket . It’s easy to change later if needed but on this job the engine is very tight in the bay and the oil pan gasket would require taking out the engine to change it or fix a leak if one appears . 


I agree totally if you buy cheap stuff you get cheap results .




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Well, you won’t find off-the-shelf Tdi sump or ladder gaskets, so you’ll have to make something up yourself.  But as a rule, you should apply sealant or a gasket, not both.  Where mating faces to a gasket have been damaged, yes, sealant can sometimes help, but it’s better to repair those faces than to bodge it up with sealant.  As for blocking drain plugs, bolt holes or pick up pipes, that is the point I was making about not applying too thick a bead from the tube, as most people (including most professional workshop staff) tend to do.  A thin bead spreads a long way laterally when the faces clamp down.

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We all have our own opinions about how we go about our repairs on these engines and trucks . I know some don’t use gaskets and yes I admit I have at times I have just 515/510 . I personally like to use a gasket . 

I tried a V8 gasket for a 3.9 and it was very close the bolt pattern was just by a little . I have the gasket set ordered and it should be in this week .


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On 11/13/2023 at 9:33 PM, Eightpot said:

We use Elring Dirko sealant at work for all engine & gearbox joints including sump pans - we don't use paper gaskets at all. Very good stuff.

+1 for this, I've not had any recurring leaks using it.


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