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Rear Crank Seal


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Since owning my 110 I have been aware of a small but fairly persistent leak from the rear of the bell housing which suggests to me that there is oil passing by the rear crank seal. I have established that this is not coming from the gearbox which is actually quite a recent Ashcroft replacement.

I accept that the replacement of this seal is going to require either the removal of the engine or the gearbox and although I have in the past on a previous vehicle removed the engine several times (this was actually a V8 and not a TDI motor) I cannot really make up my mind whether perhaps it would be easier to lift the gearbox after the removal of the front seat boxes to access the replacement. The 110 is my principal vehicle and is used a great deal for work around 3000 km a month and I want to choose the route which is going to cause the least disruption and have the vehicle off the road to the least amount of time.

I just wanted to get some feeling from other forum users on what would be their preferred option.

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Cheers for that Ralph. It looks as though this is probably the easier of the two options and with a little jiggery-pokery there's probably sufficient space in order to change the rear crank seal. I've never had to do one in the vehicle before so I'm not sure how much space is actually needed but I would have thought that if there is enough room to do the clutch then there must be also enough room to do the seal. Perhaps someone might be kind enough to let me know.

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Guest WALFY

I had this problem on my 200TDI when I changed the crank. Took 3 genuine seals to get one that actualy sealed. And they were fitted correctly :rolleyes: In the end I became quite quick at changing them. In the case of the 3rd one I had the engine out seal changed and back in and running in a tad under 4 hrs IIRC. All removed on my own and replaced with the help of my 10 yr nephew operating the engine lift. HTH

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I am still torn between which is the simpler route and I have a feeling that possibly lifting out the engine could be significantly less hassle than fannying about removing the floor panels and the seat box which I remember doing on the V8 when I put in the auto box and was a right pain in the arse. Out of interest Walfy, what was the make of the seal which finally worked? Was it a genuine part or one of the blue box alternatives. I suspect that once I've got the engine out I may well renew the clutch at the same time which although does not need replacing could be worth doing to reduce the F. factor should it fail in the future.

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if it were me, i'd probably take the engine out..

i did the clutch on my old defender, and removed the gearbox instead, never again..

If you've got an engine crane, and maybe a bit of help, you'll get the engine out, and back in, inside one day...

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Guest WALFY

The first seal was the old one from the original crank. Trying to save a few quid cost me big in time. I then purchased a seal from Bearmach, asked for a genuine seal got it in the manufactures box. Fitted that and it still leaked. Then went to the local stealers and purchased a proper seal. Got home found out it was the same seal as the Bearmach one, fitted it and it has done the trick. So god only knows why the second one didn't seal properly.

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Hi Anglofrenchman the air-con can be unbolted from engine and carefully laid to one side (I tie to somewhere to take the wieght). I would also favour engine out ......much easier to fit the seal & use genuine less doubts ;) altho no guarantee's :lol: . Mine 200tdi started leaking about 2mths ago ...a job for later. I have heard of additives that are supposed to swell seals but don't really have faith in fixes inna bottle :P ....even WD-40 only work's for V8's until the next puddle :ph34r:

cheers

Steveb

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You still have to remove the floor to undo the bellhousing nuts/bols.

You don't need to take the seat box out if you are just going to slide the gearbox back.

Les.

What engine? No need to remove the floor on my 200TDI. Just pull the mounts and drop to access the top bolts as stated in the factory manual.

Engine is easiest IMO.

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Hi Walfy. You say that you lowered the engine. The reason I ask this is because I do not have an engine crane but I do have a hydraulic platform on wheels which I bought to take out my transfer box a while back so I wonder if this might work for the engine also and avoid the need to buy another expensive piece of kit that wil be (hopefully!) seldom used. It will carry about 750kg so I hope that this would suffice.

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Guest WALFY

If you do it that way be careful where you take the weight of the engine. If you use the sump I'm sure it would deform and end up touching expensive bits inside. You could make a small cradle or use a plank to spread the load.

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Hi Walfy. You say that you lowered the engine. The reason I ask this is because I do not have an engine crane but I do have a hydraulic platform on wheels which I bought to take out my transfer box a while back so I wonder if this might work for the engine also and avoid the need to buy another expensive piece of kit that wil be (hopefully!) seldom used. It will carry about 750kg so I hope that this would suffice.

The front axle is in the way. Easier to rent a crane. They are not expensive.

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Guest WALFY

Talk about missing the obvious. I just thought about getting the bellhousing undone, not the next bit of doing the seal. Thanks to Red90 for pointing out my failings ;) You nwill need to lift the engine once the bellhousing is off. If you don't have access to an engine lift what about a scaffold bar frame and either a hand winch or your/mates vehicle winch. Not the best solution but easily achieved

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Since crank seal is the subject...

I have bought Allmakes gasket sets for my 200 Tdi and as the rear crank seal is something I only like to do once, I specifically ordered an extra one to be sure to get one of OEM type. The one I got was exactly like the one I had lying around packed in a Britpart bag. The variant made in aluminium, green and with a former to keep the shape. Makes me kinda doubtful...

In the gasket set, there was one looking as a normal seal, and in red brick colour.

So now is the question - which one should I use? :blink:

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Guest WALFY

IIRC The genuine one is ali and green with the former. Just be careful when you fit it. I had 2 genuine fitted. First 1 just wouldn't seal the 2nd fitted perfectly. You takes your chances.

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Well I have just ordered the new seal together with new clutch as I intend doing this at the same time just in case. Whether the new seal is a genuine one or not remains to be seen however I have another question regarding this particular project. Now that my vehicle is running without its cooling fan or cowl, there seems to be a huge amount of space between the front of the engine and the inside of the radiator. With this in mind would be possible to actually remove the engine without having to take off the front panel and radiator assembly which although is fairly easy I know is just one thing less to fanny about with.

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