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Drum brake disassembly?


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I have a feeling that one of my drum brakes is leaking fluid. I've slackened the adjustors, I've removed the brake line, and I've removed the single screw that is supposed to be holding the whole thing together. The hub is spinning freely, so I'm not bound on the pads.

For the love of Defender, I can't get the drum to come off! I suspect that I'm the first person to even try in 21 years.

I see there's a second threaded hole on the drum. Is it for "helping" to detach the drum? If so, what's the thread size? Any tips are appreciated!

Specs: 1987 Land Rover 110

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I wouldn't use any threaded hole - if the drum is that tight, then it'll just distort the face of the drum. It's only rust-welded to the hub, so squirt some WD40 in where the wheel studs are, also where you took out the screw. Allow the WD40 to soak through the rust for a while and then clout the drum around it's circumference repeatedly. It'll let go eventually.

Les.

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Rusty bolts, and that large annoying castellated nut notwithstanding, it sounds like a good opportunity to swap over to a rear disk axle from a rangie or disco. (assuming you are in a def) A half decent secondhand one sans-diff wont be much more than your slave cylinder repair.

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Well yes the threaded hole is for removing the drum. Not sure why Les doesn't want you to use it. Should be 8 mm IIRC. IME, using the threaded hole is the normal way to remove drums. They get a groove in them and the shoes can stick on them.

Thread bolt into hole, tension a bit. Then wack drum with hammer. Repeat. It'll come.

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Well yes the threaded hole is for removing the drum. Not sure why Les doesn't want you to use it. Should be 8 mm IIRC. IME, using the threaded hole is the normal way to remove drums. They get a groove in them and the shoes can stick on them.

Thread bolt into hole, tension a bit. Then wack drum with hammer. Repeat. It'll come.

i use the technique with a puller to get them off but on only quads , would does it do to them am just being nosey les ?

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I wasn't able to track down an M8 bolt with the right thread, so I used WD40 and a hammer. After the ringing in my ears started, I remembered to put in some earplugs.

Took about 20 minutes per drum, but they're now off. After this experience I remember again why I hate drum brakes. I'll be having a serious look at converting to discs - especially with all the work that needs to be done on mine.

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I used the threaded hole to try to remove a stuck drum once and it pulled the face out of shape. I don't think the metal is thick enough at that point to take what is sometimes a lot of strain. As the hole is off to one side it wouldn't pull the drum off square anyway, so there's a chance that it'll bind if it comes off at an angle. Just my preference really, if the drum isn't that tight, then using the hole and whacking with a hammer will work.

Les.

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Always clout the side of the drum where it fits the hub. Hitting the bit where the brake shoes are will crack the drum on the brake shoe contact.

mike

YES. It is a free country. As long as you do as you are told.

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Always clout the side of the drum where it fits the hub. Hitting the bit where the brake shoes are will crack the drum on the brake shoe contact.

mike

YES. It is a free country. As long as you do as you are told.

I agree with that, in fact I usually use a weighted rubber, plastic or other soft faced mallet to whack them with.

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As I mentioned, I managed to get it taken apart. This is where the real pain started. One of the adjusters fell out as I removed the drum. My Defender's will power seems to be the only thing that had been keeping the adjusting bolt in place.

drum.JPG

Here's what was left of the adjustor. I never saw the rest of it.

drum-adjust.JPG

Has anyone ever had this happen? I looked through my parts fiches, but I'm apparently missing the fiche for drum brakes. I suspect the entire backplate will need to be replaced.

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