tpb Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 I have a feeling that one of my drum brakes is leaking fluid. I've slackened the adjustors, I've removed the brake line, and I've removed the single screw that is supposed to be holding the whole thing together. The hub is spinning freely, so I'm not bound on the pads. For the love of Defender, I can't get the drum to come off! I suspect that I'm the first person to even try in 21 years. I see there's a second threaded hole on the drum. Is it for "helping" to detach the drum? If so, what's the thread size? Any tips are appreciated! Specs: 1987 Land Rover 110 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 I wouldn't use any threaded hole - if the drum is that tight, then it'll just distort the face of the drum. It's only rust-welded to the hub, so squirt some WD40 in where the wheel studs are, also where you took out the screw. Allow the WD40 to soak through the rust for a while and then clout the drum around it's circumference repeatedly. It'll let go eventually. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
serendipity Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 Rusty bolts, and that large annoying castellated nut notwithstanding, it sounds like a good opportunity to swap over to a rear disk axle from a rangie or disco. (assuming you are in a def) A half decent secondhand one sans-diff wont be much more than your slave cylinder repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 Well yes the threaded hole is for removing the drum. Not sure why Les doesn't want you to use it. Should be 8 mm IIRC. IME, using the threaded hole is the normal way to remove drums. They get a groove in them and the shoes can stick on them. Thread bolt into hole, tension a bit. Then wack drum with hammer. Repeat. It'll come. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 Use Land Rover Special Tool #1 A hammer, this bounces them off so to speak nut works a treat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiall Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 Well yes the threaded hole is for removing the drum. Not sure why Les doesn't want you to use it. Should be 8 mm IIRC. IME, using the threaded hole is the normal way to remove drums. They get a groove in them and the shoes can stick on them.Thread bolt into hole, tension a bit. Then wack drum with hammer. Repeat. It'll come. i use the technique with a puller to get them off but on only quads , would does it do to them am just being nosey les ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tpb Posted May 16, 2007 Author Share Posted May 16, 2007 I wasn't able to track down an M8 bolt with the right thread, so I used WD40 and a hammer. After the ringing in my ears started, I remembered to put in some earplugs. Took about 20 minutes per drum, but they're now off. After this experience I remember again why I hate drum brakes. I'll be having a serious look at converting to discs - especially with all the work that needs to be done on mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 Before replacing and after a good clean up I usually smear a small amount of copperslip around the hub where it contacts the drum and also on the wheel studs too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
101sean Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 I think you'll find that thread is 5/16 UNC or thereabouts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSIIA Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 The set screw that holds the drum to the hub flange should fit the threaded hole. Not much movement is needed to break the grip of a drum rusted to the hub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 I used the threaded hole to try to remove a stuck drum once and it pulled the face out of shape. I don't think the metal is thick enough at that point to take what is sometimes a lot of strain. As the hole is off to one side it wouldn't pull the drum off square anyway, so there's a chance that it'll bind if it comes off at an angle. Just my preference really, if the drum isn't that tight, then using the hole and whacking with a hammer will work. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 Always clout the side of the drum where it fits the hub. Hitting the bit where the brake shoes are will crack the drum on the brake shoe contact. mike YES. It is a free country. As long as you do as you are told. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 Always clout the side of the drum where it fits the hub. Hitting the bit where the brake shoes are will crack the drum on the brake shoe contact.mike YES. It is a free country. As long as you do as you are told. I agree with that, in fact I usually use a weighted rubber, plastic or other soft faced mallet to whack them with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tpb Posted May 17, 2007 Author Share Posted May 17, 2007 As I mentioned, I managed to get it taken apart. This is where the real pain started. One of the adjusters fell out as I removed the drum. My Defender's will power seems to be the only thing that had been keeping the adjusting bolt in place. Here's what was left of the adjustor. I never saw the rest of it. Has anyone ever had this happen? I looked through my parts fiches, but I'm apparently missing the fiche for drum brakes. I suspect the entire backplate will need to be replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 I've never come across one breaking like that. You can by snail adjuster kits from the likes of Paddocks and they are quite easy to fit - you get a whole axle set though, so it would be wise to do them all. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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