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Reskinning doors


Tonk
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just refurbing some defender doors, frames repaired and ready for new skins to go back on, but i need to know if i should use sealnt between the new skin and frame to help stop corrosion, silicon or maybe just waxoyl? or nothing as they will rot no matter wot i do?

TIA

Mark.

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Guest diesel_jim
just refurbing some defender doors, frames repaired and ready for new skins to go back on, but i need to know if i should use sealnt between the new skin and frame to help stop corrosion, silicon or maybe just waxoyl? or nothing as they will rot no matter wot i do?

TIA

Mark.

Out of intrest Tonk, are you refitting the old skins or have you got new bling ones?

If new, where did ya get them from? expensive? do they come painted? (actually, a stupid question that isn't it, as the paint will crack off when you bend the edge over... :rolleyes: )

Talking of bending the edge over.... did/do you just use a couple of piece of wood and a hammer to pinch the fold over?

cheers

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Nige,

u might just be a bit surprised next time u see my lr, u'll have to be quick though cos it wont change my 'unique' driving style :D

i'm going to buy new blingy door skins, they normally come in at about 75 quid each, the way i fit skins is block of wood on outside face to keep skin against frame then just dress the flange with a hammer round the frame.

out of interest i phone local motor factors for price on door skins, 25 quid each but they are made in steel FFS!!!!!!! i cant be doing rusty panels on a lr when i rub it on a tree :lol:

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  • 4 weeks later...
small block of magnesium bolted to the steel frame

the magnesium reacts with steel before the aluminium so once that goes, replace it onstead of the aluminium door skins

Sacrificial anode will only work if the whole door is wet all the time ...

AndyG

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  • 1 year later...

For sealer i would use something like Tereson seam sealer or idealy press pack but for press pack you would need a special gun! So a tereson seam sealer would be easiest you can get from any decent paint factors and fits in a normal sealer gun, Sikaflex would be good but a total person I'm not that keen on to get off, the amount of doorskins i've done where previous repairers have used it has caused me much stress!

I wouldn't waste money on a door skinning tool they get it tight yes but they can make a mess of the outside, I've always just used a good Planishing hammer and a Flat weight, don't try and beat the hell out of the side that you are bending, hold the Hammer at the end of the shaft and just guide it (sounds a bit sexual!) just let the weight of the hammer tap the edge over makes for a cleaner and smoother job. If you do a bit in each corner that will hold the skin to the frame then work round it, firstly don't fit it mega tight as you can hang the door and move it on the frame before the sealer goes off to get it aligned properly, leave the sealer to go off, when its gone off work round the door more to get it looking neat!

Hope that makes sense!

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