Tonk Posted July 19, 2007 Share Posted July 19, 2007 just refurbing some defender doors, frames repaired and ready for new skins to go back on, but i need to know if i should use sealnt between the new skin and frame to help stop corrosion, silicon or maybe just waxoyl? or nothing as they will rot no matter wot i do? TIA Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted July 19, 2007 Share Posted July 19, 2007 I'd be inclined to use a bit of (proper) seam sealant. NOT silicone sealant as the acids in silicone can casue corrosion. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 19, 2007 Share Posted July 19, 2007 Seam sealer purpose made for car bodies would do the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted July 19, 2007 Share Posted July 19, 2007 NOT silicone sealant as the acids in silicone can cause corrosion.Jon Wot.????????????? Before he gently mullers them off road against a tree/rock/rambler/house/something - giveing them that "Pre Loved" look ? Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest diesel_jim Posted July 19, 2007 Share Posted July 19, 2007 just refurbing some defender doors, frames repaired and ready for new skins to go back on, but i need to know if i should use sealnt between the new skin and frame to help stop corrosion, silicon or maybe just waxoyl? or nothing as they will rot no matter wot i do?TIA Mark. Out of intrest Tonk, are you refitting the old skins or have you got new bling ones? If new, where did ya get them from? expensive? do they come painted? (actually, a stupid question that isn't it, as the paint will crack off when you bend the edge over... ) Talking of bending the edge over.... did/do you just use a couple of piece of wood and a hammer to pinch the fold over? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted July 20, 2007 Author Share Posted July 20, 2007 Nige, u might just be a bit surprised next time u see my lr, u'll have to be quick though cos it wont change my 'unique' driving style i'm going to buy new blingy door skins, they normally come in at about 75 quid each, the way i fit skins is block of wood on outside face to keep skin against frame then just dress the flange with a hammer round the frame. out of interest i phone local motor factors for price on door skins, 25 quid each but they are made in steel FFS!!!!!!! i cant be doing rusty panels on a lr when i rub it on a tree Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 You want a door skinning tool mate!!! Only way to get em really tight! Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted July 20, 2007 Author Share Posted July 20, 2007 have u got one jon? if so stick it in ya motor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 Nope!!! My mates got one but I aint going to be seeing him anytime soon....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunc Posted July 23, 2007 Share Posted July 23, 2007 Try sikaflex Mark, worked when i built the doors on my S3. Acts as a gasket seperating the metals but also like a glue holding them together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted July 24, 2007 Author Share Posted July 24, 2007 only problem using sikaflex is i wouldn't be able to get the skins off if i wanted to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunc Posted July 24, 2007 Share Posted July 24, 2007 only problem using sikaflex is i wouldn't be able to get the skins off if i wanted to Well you could mate, but they wouldn't be very smooth anymore!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael calvert Posted July 25, 2007 Share Posted July 25, 2007 Well you could mate, but they wouldn't be very smooth anymore!! small block of magnesium bolted to the steel frame the magnesium reacts with steel before the aluminium so once that goes, replace it onstead of the aluminium door skins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted July 25, 2007 Author Share Posted July 25, 2007 hmmmm interesting, i'm replacing the skins cos of the odd minor blemish caused through my driving rather than rot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Claus 200 tdi in ninety Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 hmmmm interesting, i'm replacing the skins cos of the odd minor blemish caused through my driving rather than rot I 've got the door frames galvanized. Both series and defender doors! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
101nut Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 small block of magnesium bolted to the steel framethe magnesium reacts with steel before the aluminium so once that goes, replace it onstead of the aluminium door skins Sacrificial anode will only work if the whole door is wet all the time ... AndyG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roel J Posted August 28, 2007 Share Posted August 28, 2007 And how do you guys get the skins back on? With a hammer and a wooden block? Is it Ok then, so that it doesn't come loose? Any other suggestions please? Thanks!! Roel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellow Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 Link to Frost, for the door skinning tool: Frost door skinning tool About 42 pounds incl VAT And a picture: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles tout terrain Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 For sealer i would use something like Tereson seam sealer or idealy press pack but for press pack you would need a special gun! So a tereson seam sealer would be easiest you can get from any decent paint factors and fits in a normal sealer gun, Sikaflex would be good but a total person I'm not that keen on to get off, the amount of doorskins i've done where previous repairers have used it has caused me much stress! I wouldn't waste money on a door skinning tool they get it tight yes but they can make a mess of the outside, I've always just used a good Planishing hammer and a Flat weight, don't try and beat the hell out of the side that you are bending, hold the Hammer at the end of the shaft and just guide it (sounds a bit sexual!) just let the weight of the hammer tap the edge over makes for a cleaner and smoother job. If you do a bit in each corner that will hold the skin to the frame then work round it, firstly don't fit it mega tight as you can hang the door and move it on the frame before the sealer goes off to get it aligned properly, leave the sealer to go off, when its gone off work round the door more to get it looking neat! Hope that makes sense! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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