gav- Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 I am soon to be pickuping a disco, so itll mean someting to me afterwards and I dont want it getting nicked. Itll be parked on my driveway and people will be able to see it, my racer is in the garage. Itll have a immobilser on it, But my question is what else can be done? Dont want to go to the extent of removing wheels etc. Its a 200tdi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 battery cut-off cunning re-wiring of stop solenoid if all else fails, chain it down! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbarton Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 Don't have a visible SatNav mount, otherwise they'll break into it looking for the device itself. Two of my neighbours have been done this way, one in broad daylight, the other last night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stumpy2268 Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 Concentrated Hydrochloric Acid spray nozzles built into the sun visors. These are linked to a 5 minute timer which activates via a pressure switch in the seat cushion. Is this a little harsh ? Not in comparison to being caught by me in the act of stealing the car :angry: Serious mode on :- Get a tracker fitted, then at least you will get the car back. In my experience, if they want to steal it, they will, no matter how much you spend on security. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruuman Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 leave it with the transfer box in neutral, that will stop most of the thieving gits, could always fit a removable steering wheel too. But a battery cutout on the starter is the way I'd go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigSi110 Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 A mate of mine suggested this trick that car dealers use: After switching off the engine, pump the brakes until the pedal goes hard (just the pedal, nothing else....), which apparently locks the brakes on all 4 wheels until the engine is started and the servo releases its pressure on the calipers. Coupled with an immobiliser switch, the car would be almost impossible to move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 big dog, baseball bat/firearm, line locks, nobble switch for shut off valve (cranks but wont start), make it look like its knackered and not worth nicking, hidden fuel tap on the feed line (stops just round the corner), ice hockey mask and a chainsaw helps as well. as Adrian said though - if they really want it, its gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bull Bar Cowboy Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 After switching off the engine, pump the brakes until the pedal goes hard (just the pedal, nothing else....), which apparently locks the brakes on all 4 wheels until the engine is started and the servo releases its pressure on the calipers. That is only true for air operated brakes as used on HGV's, with no air, then the brakes are locked on....................... servo control on normal hydraulically operated brakes is there only to reduce the pedal effort ............. pumping out the vacuum to a hard pedal still fully releases the brakes when the pedal is not pressed. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris123 Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 Fuel shut off switch, just after the filter. They'll have enough fuel to start it, and move it into the road. But then the whole thing will need re-bleeding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smo Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 Fuel shut off switch, just after the filter. They'll have enough fuel to start it, and move it into the road. But then the whole thing will need re-bleeding. Is this possible on a TD5 seeing as its comparatiely high pressure as opposed to a 200tdi system? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris123 Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 oooh dunno! I'm used to 2.25 NAs! works on them! (though mine is before the fuel filter, so they can still get a mile or so) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 An oily haynes manual open on the serious engine problems page on the passenger seat does the trick for me.... Seriously though...there isn't any real way of totally locking a 200 tdi - most engine immobilisation can be easily by-passed, even these clutch locking devices fail if your thief is a good enough driver. Make it as inconveniant to steal as possible - steering wheel locks are generally good - PITA to remove and visible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gav- Posted August 24, 2007 Author Share Posted August 24, 2007 so, by the looks of it, an electrical cut out switch, an immobilser, a fuel cut off switch, a switched alarm. could all help and wont take much to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 Sandbag's Mini got broken into in Brighton and the only thing stolen was the Haynes manual. Perhaps not such a good deterrant? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headhunter Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 Fit a meck lock as sold by Kev Baldwin from Mudstuff. http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/Meck_Lock.html It is fitted into the clutch hydraulic line and when the key is removed the clutch is inoperable. They also do a dual device that allows you to fit to the brakes as well. If the key is removed and the foot brakes applied they stay locked on. So if a thief gets the engine running they will have to crash through the gears to move. When they hit the brakes thats as far as they go. Plus a battery imobiliser further frustrates drive away theft. I recommend one of these - http://www.power-store.com/view-item.asp?i...amp;id=191& Which can be locked in the off position with a padlock and handle the following loads - Voltage: 12, 24, 32 & 48V DC Continuous Rating: 400A Intermittant Rating: 525A Cranking Rating: 1500A Terminal size: 3/8" (10mm) You can switch to battery 1 or battery 2 or both on or both off. All for £40 inc VAT John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landmannnn Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 I got mine chained to a bracket bolted into concrete, steering wheel lock, battery cut off switch and 2 wheel clamps. Hopefully too much effort for them to steal it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gav- Posted August 24, 2007 Author Share Posted August 24, 2007 right i am getting the idea. i can easily put a lockable isolation valve in the clutch line, a fuel cut out switch, a battery isolator, an immobilser, a switched alarm, and a steering wheel lock. May be a pain in the arse to do but its not my main car. I was even thinking i could put a bar across the pedals rather than put a valve in the clutch. The reason i ask this is that the car has already stolen once and luckily only 5 miles up the road with just a damaged ignition barrel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 Has it been offered to you cheap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 25, 2007 Share Posted August 25, 2007 Take out good insurance and hope - if someone wants it they'll take it no matter how locked it is. There's not much you can't spirit away with a low-loader and long-reach hiab IMHO those anti-theft devices take up more of your time fitting/enabling/disabling/undoing them than they do for the thieving scum to get round. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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