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Turning Centres round in wheel rims


LDRover

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I reckon you will need to have them professionally done if used on the road.

First off I don't know how happy an insurance company would be if you told them you had DIY modified the wheels.

Second if even a very small amount out of true then you are going to need some serious balancing and then might not be able to counteract any distortion.

Third any slight distortion ie if not 100% welded correctly then it's probably going to be an MOT failure in the future (I've had a car fail on distorted rim).

"At the end of the day" it's probably going to be cheaper to just buy the proper wheels than pay someone to modify the ones he's got to insurance standard.

If it's a pure off roader then forget everything I've wrote above :D

Paul Humphries.

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Has anyone got any advice on turning the centers round in 8 spokes or disco rims. A mate has been told it is the best way to stop the tyres rubbing on the top spring cups on his 110.

Thanks.

What rims is he currently running? what size tyres?

turning the rim is going to give you a pretty large offset, if he's only currently running standard rims then a set of modulars may well cure the problem.

I'd echo Paul's comments, the next thing is whether they're for road use or not. the legalities & quality of workmanship are very much worth considering

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He is running 8 x 16 modulars, the offset is not that larger on them. He has been told to get a larger off set he will need 10 x 15 wheels. When his wheel hits the top spring cup he still has about 5 inches between the axle and bump stop. This is with 35" creep crawler, even with spacers it look like they will still hit.

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I have done this mod to my 8 spokes, i built a jig out of some worktop and an old hub, i also made some spacers to set the back spacing, the welding is critical it is amazing just how much not having the welds opposite each other pulls the wheel out of true. Mines an off road only motor, i wouldnt do it for on road use as in a crash its just not worth it.

If you could buy some wheels with more offset i think it would be much simpler and a safer bet.

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I've been running reversed 8 spokes on the road that I did myself for years and have had no problems. If you thumb back through the posts on here I have described in detail how to do it several times in the past.

I've not had any problems with MOT's and my insurance company didnt care either.

Jon

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I've been running reversed 8 spokes on the road that I did myself for years and have had no problems. If you thumb back through the posts on here I have described in detail how to do it several times in the past.

I've not had any problems with MOT's and my insurance company didnt care either.

Jon

Cheers for that, will pass the info on to him.

Thanks.

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I've been running reversed 8 spokes on the road that I did myself for years and have had no problems. If you thumb back through the posts on here I have described in detail how to do it several times in the past.

I've not had any problems with MOT's and my insurance company didnt care either.

Jon

Second that, its worth taking time when you set up and tack weld to make sure they are true, I'm lucky as we have both marking tables and big lathes at work, i've just done 5000 miles to and through North Africa on them and not a problem.

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just a quick add on question about reversing rims,

been looking at doing this to my set of disco rims, but with all the hassle of grinding off the welds, turning them and making sure they are perfect - seems like a bit of a a$$ of a job.

now i understand you cant just turn the whole rim round, cos of the little raised bits that the wheel nuts locate in. Is there any reason why you cant grind these off so that the rim sits flat against the hub (like it should do) and leave it at that?

cheers

Nick

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just a quick add on question about reversing rims,

been looking at doing this to my set of disco rims, but with all the hassle of grinding off the welds, turning them and making sure they are perfect - seems like a bit of a a$$ of a job.

now i understand you cant just turn the whole rim round, cos of the little raised bits that the wheel nuts locate in. Is there any reason why you cant grind these off so that the rim sits flat against the hub (like it should do) and leave it at that?

cheers

Nick

Guessing here but I believe that the raised bit the wheel nuts locate in is to stop the nuts from undoing by adding a bit of spring and friction of the counter sink?

I have often wondered if flat 8 spoke steel centers should be used with "Alloy" wheel nuts for this reason?

I look to an adult to come and advise?

Cheers.

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About 2.5" on the rear and 2" on the front.

Which is not excessive but if its still 5" from the bump stop when it all binds up I'd suggest softer springs might help both articulation and enable the wheel to pass up over the spring hanger.

Try removing the spring and articulating the axle with the current wheels to see what binds?

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Guessing here but I believe that the raised bit the wheel nuts locate in is to stop the nuts from undoing by adding a bit of spring and friction of the counter sink?

I have often wondered if flat 8 spoke steel centers should be used with "Alloy" wheel nuts for this reason?

I look to an adult to come and advise?

Cheers.

they can be used but i believe the bottom line on it is that you shouldnt exceed X speed (cant remember what that speed was, probably comparable to a space saver on a eurobox)

reasons being the ally nuts dont grip to the steel wheels very well, especially because they are used to sitting in a beveled hole that matches their own shape, and they are now the softer component vs the steel wheel.

on the flipside, you dont use steel wheel nuts on alloy wheels, although that is usually because they are smaller and will eventually rip through the wheel itself

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