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Hazard Switch & Indicators - fault diagnosis

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  • 1 year later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 4 months later...

For info, the wire shown as dark green here is white with a green trace in the TD5 defenders. Make sure this is not confused with the green with white trace wire.


Also for info, for a TD5 HZ switch, to get the little light in the button to illuminate you join the black/red wire with the orange/red wire.

My 86reg 90 with original loom, the dark green wire had a small white rubber band marker on, this attaches to the White with green trace wire as Kev says.

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  • 3 months later...

If you've tried 3 switches that all work fine in anothe vehicle, I think it is pretty safe to say it's not the switch.

Do you have a multimeter or a test lamp?

If you have a spare length of wire or lamp you can test the wiring at the hazard switch connector, as described above.

Have you done this?

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i have tried it as described, all works both lights come on and switch for indicators is correct as they function, but can't get the hazards to work, but can't get the relay to work, have tried two new relays but still no hazards, but all the switches and relays the indicators function fine just cant get hazards to work starting to panic cause mot comming fast :(

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've just been down to the landy and tested the switch with a multi meter. At first it was'nt working when tested, then when I switched it on and off it started working. It must have been a bit dirty inside. One of the pins/terminals on the back of the switch was a bit corroded so I cleaned it up. Put it back together and the hazards started working again. Happy Days.


P.S a very helpful thread.

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  • 3 weeks later...

The flasher relay on my 1988 110 is energising (clicking) all the time even when the hazards/indicators are not turned on. The strange thing is that the indicators are not coming on when it clicks. The indicators work fine when selected but when turned off again the relay continues to click.

The clicking is not consistent as when the indicators are selected but instead erratic. If I turn my lights on it reduces the frequency of the clicking but it still does it occasionally.

I put the M.meter across the light green and earth on the flasher relay and it always has 13v across it (with engine running) as it ony happens with the IGN on. If I turn the lights on it drops to 12.8v and it reduces the frequency of the clicking.

I assumed this was due to a short cicuit so I pulled my landies wiring loom to pieces and sepreated all the wires but it still happens. I have checked all the indicator associated connections and cannot find a short there, so I am at a loss as to what else it could be.

The only theory I have left is because it only happens with the IGN on there is a fault with the hazard switch across the Green - Light green connections but I have checked this with the m.meter too and it appears to be fine too.

I have read the following article and all works fine.



Does anyone else have any thoughts?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok so I've changed the Hazard switch for a new one which has reduced the frequency ofthe clicking but not erradicated it entirely which leads me to believe that the switch was on its way out but not the cause.

Since it only happens with the ingnition turned on then it leads me to believe the fault is IGN feed but I cannot find any shorts on this line and all voltages/currents are correct.

The only thing I can think maybe the problem is the trailer socket so Im going to disconnect that now and see if it cures it. Beyond that I am lost.


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Yeah, have changed relay, hazard switch, steering column switches. Disconnected trailer electrics but has made no difference.

Have drawn a circuit diagram which I'll upload later when on computer rather than iPhone. It may help someone else out in future.

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Diagram as promised

Sorry, I don't think the IGN feed is the promblem but rather the problem is somewhere on the IGN feed.

As you can see from the diagram the flasher relay uses the same power feed to activate the relay and also power the bulbs which would imply that the flasher relay should click constantly as it always has power.

I know it is not as simple as this, I assume the other components in the flasher relay and Haz switch are there to prevent this. My understanding of electrics doesn't go as far as understanding how this actually works. Can anyone explain this?

post-9000-021141900 1292244161_thumb.jpg

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The indicator does have power on it all the time, when the ignition is on (or when the hazard switch is pressed)

Its 'flash' is dictated by the load on the output side of the relay.

no current flow - no flash

some current flow - rapid flash - just like when a bulb has gone

normal current flow - normal flash.

Since yours is on a quick flash all the time, there is a current flowing somewhere, though it's unlikely to be a dead short as that'd pop a fuse.

It is very likely that the issue is with the output from the relay, before it gets to the indicator switches, or the hazard switch - the Light green/Brown wire.

For info, I had a look inside a flasher relay not so long ago, and there's a fair bit in there. I didn't have time to investigate further. The relay in question is wired with a single constant supply (albeit after the main vehicle FIA switch) and works fine.

There are no extra components inside a hazard switch, apart from the tell-tale bulb.

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  • 1 month later...

hi all

i have a similar prob.

my indicators stopped working in traffic one day. ive replaced the switcg relay and column switch.

this is what happens. hazard off = no indicators or hazards

hazard switch on and left or right on steering wheel on = hazards

ive done the tests as in this tread and left and right work fine on the steering. ive had the dash out and cant find any loose wires.

please help


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  • 4 weeks later...

Repairing the hazard switch

Just to let you know that it is possible to take the switch apart and clean up the contacts inside. Obviously if anything has broken inside then this is no use, but I managed to get my indicators working properly again by stripping and cleaning the switch.

If you want to try then the following tips might be useful....

There are small plastic pins and springs inside so work on a clear table just in case!

Slowly and carefully prise up the back of the switch which holds the copper contact pins. Hold the switch with these pins upwards and prise the back up. There are four plastic lugs to ease apart a little. Remember which way it goes (4 pins top)

If you hold the switch with these pins upwards then the springs and plastic pins inside will remain sitting in the rocker part of the switch. Place this rocker part aside as this shouldn't need any attention. There are the two side spades for the rocker light which may come loose as you lift the back away. Push them back making sure that they sit tightly against the contacts inside.

Inside the back of the switch you will see a white plastic piece which will fall out easily. Remember which way it goes! Behind this you can now clean up all the copper contact surfaces. There is one stiffer contact which needs to be bent up in order that you can clean underneath. Gently do this with a small screwdriver, clean the contacts and then bend back. (it was this one that was dirty on mine). To do this I cut a thin strip of wet and dry paper, folded it over the end of the screwdriver to form a mini 'file'.

If you have a tester then you can check that the contacts are now clean and working. Reassemble and there you are!

Hope thats useful to someone. It saved me £15 for a new switch (or over £50 for a Land Rover one!)

cheers Clive

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  • 7 months later...

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