tuko Posted October 7, 2008 Author Share Posted October 7, 2008 Today I finally finished the wiring diagram for the conversion. A bit of this and that from 2 different types of vehicles. The most part of course the electrics are 300Tdi, including a Defender engine compartment fuse box that I have on it's way from ebay. I won't be in the garage much the next few days as I'm on back shift till the 15th. In the mean time here is the wiring diagram that I plan to follow once I have everything here next week. Is there anything that I've left out or did wrong May as well ask and correct now so that I don't fry anything expensive later. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjblank Posted October 7, 2008 Share Posted October 7, 2008 Today I finally finished the wiring diagram for the conversion. A bit of this and that from 2 different types of vehicles. The most part of course the electrics are 300Tdi, including a Defender engine compartment fuse box that I have on it's way from ebay.I won't be in the garage much the next few days as I'm on back shift till the 15th. In the mean time here is the wiring diagram that I plan to follow once I have everything here next week. Is there anything that I've left out or did wrong May as well ask and correct now so that I don't fry anything expensive later. Todd. todd, Looks pretty good... You won't burn anything up... Don't forget to splice the fuel shutoff switch into the white wire from the ignition switch/glow plug timer... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted October 8, 2008 Author Share Posted October 8, 2008 Thanks for the eagle eye, Ray. I'll update the diagram soonest. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars L Posted October 27, 2008 Share Posted October 27, 2008 And make sure it's live even when cranking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted November 3, 2008 Author Share Posted November 3, 2008 And make sure it's live even when cranking. I'm presently wiring up the ignition switch, how would I check that there power there when cranking? I am using a Defender switch and its wired so far as the diagram shows. ..... I'll double check the diagram and wires tomorrow. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjblank Posted November 4, 2008 Share Posted November 4, 2008 I'm presently wiring up the ignition switch, how would I check that there power there when cranking?I am using a Defender switch and its wired so far as the diagram shows. ..... I'll double check the diagram and wires tomorrow. Todd. Todd, if you have a multi-meter, and an assistant, you can check at the back of the switch. In the Ohms scale, connect one of the test leads to the terminal that the main power comes in (brown wire) and the other lead to the ignition lead (white wire). In the "Off" position you shpould not have a reading. Have your trusty assistant turn the key to the "Run" position, you should have "0.00" resistance. Have the trusty assistant turn the key to the "Start" position, you should have the same reading as in the "Run" position, "0.00". If not, you will need a different switch. Good luck... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted November 5, 2008 Author Share Posted November 5, 2008 Todd, if you have a multi-meter, and an assistant, you can check at the back of the switch. In the Ohms scale, connect one of the test leads to the terminal that the main power comes in (brown wire) and the other lead to the ignition lead (white wire). In the "Off" position you shpould not have a reading. Have your trusty assistant turn the key to the "Run" position, you should have "0.00" resistance. Have the trusty assistant turn the key to the "Start" position, you should have the same reading as in the "Run" position, "0.00". If not, you will need a different switch.Good luck... Me and my trusty assistant (me, myself and I) already have the dash apart for the other wires in the dash so doing as you stated, Ray was a breeze. Yes, I do have power in both positions I & II. I don't know if I mentioned it before, but I did replace the ignition switch with the one from the vehicle that this motor came from. To be honest, I have no idea if the original series petrol ignition switch would or does have power all the time in both positions. Other than waiting for the battery tray, all the wires except those to the battery are done. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjblank Posted November 5, 2008 Share Posted November 5, 2008 Me and my trusty assistant (me, myself and I) already have the dash apart for the other wires in the dash so doing as you stated, Ray was a breeze. Yes, I do have power in both positions I & II. I don't know if I mentioned it before, but I did replace the ignition switch with the one from the vehicle that this motor came from. To be honest, I have no idea if the original series petrol ignition switch would or does have power all the time in both positions. Other than waiting for the battery tray, all the wires except those to the battery are done. Todd. Todd, When I did mine, Richard, from Glencoyne Engineering, told me that the petrol switch is what you want/need for this. The terminal in question feeds the ignition system on a petrol, which needs power for the coil on both "run" and "Start"... That's good that you had the switch... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted April 10, 2009 Author Share Posted April 10, 2009 Thanks for the eagle eye, Ray.I'll update the diagram soonest. Todd. Man it's been a while since I wrote anything here, therefore I better add a few lines. She's a running! Here is the updated wiring diagram with a few subtle changes to wire colors that match the components that I've used in this conversion. Once I get more time later today, I'll add more from where we left off. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted April 11, 2009 Author Share Posted April 11, 2009 Since the wiring harness is correct and I have a base line to follow, I continued with other things on the engine. Next was the blanking plate where the turbo once stood. OK, before I get flamed again on this topic of the turbo, I will explain that it's the law that is forcing it's hand on me and this route that I've had to take. The landy has to be re registered to a diesel vehicle. The law clearly states that the HP and torque outputs can NOT exceed 10% of the original engine ratings. As we already know the 300Tdi in stock form exceeds those, therefore I would never get it through an inspection. Removing the turbo will get me through an inspection. ...........But who's to say that maybe next year that I slap the turbo back on ?? Anyways a friends brother works in a machine shop and milled out a piece of stainless steel 68.0mm O x 4mm that fit perfectly into the hole on the exhaust manifold. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antichrist Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 Once they were off, the motor came out in a jiffy then I welded the mounts in place. Two coats of zinc paint sprayed already, tomorrow I spray a bit more before a good coating of waxoyl on the new mounts.I hope those are merely copper coated brake lines, and not copper line. Copper work hardens in a braking system and becomes brittle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted April 13, 2009 Author Share Posted April 13, 2009 I hope those are merely copper coated brake lines, and not copper line. Copper work hardens in a braking system and becomes brittle. Yes they are copper lines that are legal here in Sweden. And YES they will be replaced once I get to that stage, as you possibly did see in the pictures I had to move the brake splitter valve so that I had the space for the motor mount. Thanks, Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 Copper lines are legal in this country too. They may work harden, but I've yet to hear of one fracturing. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted April 13, 2009 Author Share Posted April 13, 2009 Some more progress on the landy, I've been focusing on the little things that the list appears to be never ending. The purged fuel tank need a fuel return pipe installed and while it was on the garage floor, I cleaned it out the best I could. Removing the tank during the summer, it was a right bugger to get out from under the seat box, but when Karl and I installed it, it rotated and popped right into place We both just looked at each other and laughed. Began plumbing in the fuel lines, to/from the injector pump and the newly installed lift pump. Only one line left, which I'll buy later today or tomorrow. On the injector pump I removed the EGR Throttle Position Sensor from the linkage. From there I installed the Discovery RHD trottle cable which now is coupled to a Defender throttle pedal. The mounting plate had to spaced a bit from the firewall and the arm portion of the pedal needed a few mm (about 15mm) of metal trimmed from the bottom section so that I can have full throttle movement at the pedal and on the injector pump. Then from there I plumbed in the brake vacuum pump on the motor. With the servo more forward than the pump, I was unable to simply run a hose and be done with it. 10mm copper fuel line had to be formed into shape so that the two components can be connected to each other. Overall a tidy job and should work perfectly fine. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted April 14, 2009 Author Share Posted April 14, 2009 Today was the front down pipe for the beginnings of an exhaust system. Spent the better part of the day just measuring and cutting small pieces at at time figuring how to snake the down pipe around the 2 cross members and the suspension mounts. Plus the the idea that I have to step up the exhaust pipe because the original tubing is 2 1/4" where the standard sizes that you can buy at the local auto suppliers ranges from 2" to 2½", with nothing in between. In the attached pictures you can see that the exhaust does sit slightly lower than the frame rail, but there was no way that it was going to follow the same route as the original exhaust system. Here are some pictures........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted April 14, 2009 Author Share Posted April 14, 2009 And the final product, a custom 2 ½" 300Di down pipe for a series 3 88. I would have continued further along with the exhaust system, but I'm not pleased with the firm that I bought the tubing from. I also bought a flex joint, but upon looking at the receipt today, I see that he charged me double every wheres else in town. I'll be returning it along with a few other parts that I didn't use then buy myself a case of beer. As for the rest of the exhaust, I plan to run it in up along the frame and exiting out the PTO hole in the rear cross member........or possibly out to the left of the middle squared section. We'll see where the tubing leads me..... Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECCANO Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 Very neat, i particularly like what you did around the gearbox crossmember. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted May 13, 2009 Author Share Posted May 13, 2009 Nearly finished with the fabricated exhaust mounts and the rear portion of the exhaust. Should be able to post a few pictures by Friday.......crossed fingers. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted May 17, 2009 Author Share Posted May 17, 2009 Getting back to the exhaust system, I finally finished it up. Custom made two exhaust mounts with conveyor belt rubber in the middle so that they will absorb any vibrations in the exhaust system. Basically 2½ inch straight through exhaust system. The Simons muffler you can put your hand straight through it, there's nothing there other than the perforated steel wrapping but it does work, quiets the machine nicely. One note is that even standing 2 or 3 meters behind the landy, you can still feel the back pressure exhaust. Does that mean I have lots of power Another thing to check off the list of getting my landy back on the road with it's new power plant. B) Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted June 14, 2009 Author Share Posted June 14, 2009 Skipping over a lot of things that I've done to the landy, the beast is nearly 100% finished. Here is a vid my son took yesterday when we drove the beast out of the garage for the first time since Sept. 2007. Some small things to sort out, but mechanically she's done. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted June 14, 2009 Author Share Posted June 14, 2009 Today after washing off 2 years of garage dust, we took the landy for a short test drive to shake the bugs out and check that everything is running as it should. No insulation as of yet but for short local trips the noise level will be bearable and ear plugs for those long runs. Overall, I'm very pleased with the final results. Oh and nothing fell off. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 sounds really good, done a top class job there Todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenmobile Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 Good stuff Todd, I'll bet you're pretty chuffed that's done? Just time to get that hedge clipped now..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted June 14, 2009 Author Share Posted June 14, 2009 Good stuff Todd, I'll bet you're pretty chuffed that's done?Just time to get that hedge clipped now..... LOL James, the bosswoman just said the same thing. Have you been talking with her Jupp your right very chuffed. Ralph, many thanks for the kind words. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spcollins Posted November 29, 2009 Share Posted November 29, 2009 Great work, Todd. If you were to do it again would you do anything differently (I am about to do the same thing - just picked up a Discovery 300TDI for the right money yesterday)? I am going to use the turbo, though! Simon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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