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Still no joy...what next -Disco problem-Les? or anyone?


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Disco overheated, lost all water, got towed home by AA.

I have stripped the head, had it machined, new head gasket on, new thermostat. Put it all back together, finished today and.. the engine won't start.

I've bled the fuel system as described in Haynes manual but it still won't start. Engine turns over but won't fire. Bearing in mind that it all started with overheating, stopped immediately and there was water everywhere under the bonnet, none in the oil. Any ideas of what to try next will be very welcome, I'm tearing my hair out..

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Is the fuel cut off switch connected/working, and did you re-set the tappets?

If you did, then try a tow start - sometimes a rebuilt head makes a diesel lump very difficult to start.

Les.

Hi Les

The fuel cut off switch?? where is it? I didn't re-set the tappets, would this make a difference. Can't tow start it 'cos its automatic. It does say in the maual that they are difficult to start after this kind of work on them. I've done this job on a 200 before and had no problems. When it broke down I was 50 miles from home on may back after just completing 4500 miles around Spain feeling really smug as tis car is fairly new to me. It's a jap import , a County, and only has 60,000 on the clock.

thanks, Norman

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The cut off switch is located on the back of the injector pump and has a single wire going to it. When you turn the ignition on it should click to indicate that the switch has operated correctly.

After removing the head it's always wise to check the tappet gap.

Les.

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If you've had the head off AND had it skimmed the chances of any of the valve clearances being correct are zero.

Check all the clearances, i should think the valves are all being held open.

Mowed the lawn, fixed the outside light,I suppose the time has come...GOT to go and try again, will try the options you have both suggested. Let you know, fingers crossed.

Cheers

Norman

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Thanks to all so far, ...Yes, it's an EDC engine. I've Set the tappets, It sounds more like it when turning the engine, instead of a consistent whine it now makes a thumping noise like a diesel does but still doesn't fire. I am getting diesel at the injectors. Any more ideas.....

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Thanks to all so far, ...Yes, it's an EDC engine. I've Set the tappets, It sounds more like it when turning the engine, instead of a consistent whine it now makes a thumping noise like a diesel does but still doesn't fire. I am getting diesel at the injectors. Any more ideas.....

might sound daft but you did time it up properly did'nt you, you know lock flywheel and fuel pump then strip/rebuild.

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If it is a Jap auto it might be an EDC engine, not sure if they have a stop solenoid but it makes the possible list of problems much longer...

In answer I started a new topic my mistake, it's Still no joy, Can you Help?-Disco problem Please read for latest in sorry saga.

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might sound daft but you did time it up properly did'nt you, you know lock flywheel and fuel pump then strip/rebuild.

Yes, thats all ok as I never turned the engine while I had the head off.

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Taking the head off shouldn't affect the timing...

Are you sure you have bled the fuel system completely? There is a chamber on the fuel pump that likes to airlock, so needs to be bled, as well as the fuel fliter, and then finally the injectors. This should all be done using the manual lift pump.

I found that just cracking the injector pipes and turning it over till they were wet was not nearly enough to bleed it properly.

just a thought,

Mark

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Just read your other thread, I have had exactly the same situation (although after I did the head gasket on my 65k mile jap import 300tdi EDC discovery I discovered the head was cracked, and had to do it all over again...) I found it needed to be bled really well, and you pretty much have to follow the order in the haynes manual twice to get it to fire. the chamber at the top of the fuel pump is where the air seems to accumulate...

good luck

Mark

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With it being an EDC you can take the stop solenoid plunger and spring out to rule them out.

The stop solenoid is on the fuel injection pump, I think it was a 24mm nut to undo it, when you withdraw it you will see a plunger and spring. Put these somewhere safe and put the main bit back in and tighten.

The car will still shut off as per usual as soon as you turn off the car, as the FIP will lose power.

As far as I'm aware it won't cause any damage to run without the plunger/spring as the stop solenoid is just used for the immobiliser on the EDC models, I ran mine without spring and plunger for about 6 months.

If when you look at the stop solenoid you can't see the 24mm nut, then it will have the more advanced immobiliser system, which consists of a black metal box which covers the solenoid. If you have this it's a bit more tricky.

*** EDIT ***

Just read that you have checked and you are getting fuel at the injectors - so it shouldn't be the stop solenoid, although you could still remove it to rule it out completely.

It might be a long shot but the EDC's can be a bit hard to start especially if you have flattened the battery a bit trying. Have you tried Jump starting it off a healthy vehicle which is running to make sure it's got plenty of power. My experience was that the starter sounds fine when the battery is a little low but the FIP doesn't get enough power to pump the fuel properly

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If you take out the plunger and spring from the FIP fuel cut off solenoid the engine WILL NOT stop on the key as that's exactly what the plunger and spring is there for - if you take it out you have to stall the engine to stop it. Which on an auto may be a might tricky? - dunno, never owned one as I'm not lazy. :rolleyes:

Off to read the other thread and comment more later.........

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If you take out the plunger and spring from the FIP fuel cut off solenoid the engine WILL NOT stop on the key as that's exactly what the plunger and spring is there for - if you take it out you have to stall the engine to stop it. Which on an auto may be a might tricky? - dunno, never owned one as I'm not lazy. :rolleyes:

Off to read the other thread and comment more later.........

Yes it will stop, took mine out months ago.

Regards

Keith

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What else have you done to the engine?

So far I only have ;

Replaced Head Gasket.

You have fuel at injectors.

If you have got a decent battery then that should create enough compresssion to start. I'd use another vehicle to jump the battery to really fling the engine round. Remember no more than 30 secs starting or your'll burn out starter motor.

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What else have you done to the engine?

So far I only have ;

Replaced Head Gasket.

You have fuel at injectors.

If you have got a decent battery then that should create enough compression to start. I'd use another vehicle to jump the battery to really fling the engine round. Remember no more than 30 secs starting or you'll burn out starter motor.

This may sound stupid from my side, but are the glow plugs wired up, one tends to forget the power supply wire to no 4 glow plug, as it tends to disappear behind the head when disconnected, or is it only the mechanical diesel pump systems that has glow plugs? Second basic test, "hot wire" the cut off solenoid directly from the battery.

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If you take out the plunger and spring from the FIP fuel cut off solenoid the engine WILL NOT stop on the key as that's exactly what the plunger and spring is there for - if you take it out you have to stall the engine to stop it. Which on an auto may be a might tricky? - dunno, never owned one as I'm not lazy. :rolleyes:

Off to read the other thread and comment more later.........

No Mate - you are completely wrong there, the FIP cuts off the fuel when it doesn't have power, the stop solenoid acts as part of the immobilser and as a secondary cut, it is not needed on the EDC, so the engine will stop on the key, as said above mine was out for 6 months, and as confirmed by keithjh

This may sound stupid from my side, but are the glow plugs wired up, one tends to forget the power supply wire to no 4 glow plug, as it tends to disappear behind the head when disconnected, or is it only the mechanical diesel pump systems that has glow plugs? Second basic test, "hot wire" the cut off solenoid directly from the battery.

The EDC model does have glow plugs and they are much more important, it needs them all working in cold weather, and can be fussy even in warm weather.

It's better to completely bypass the solenoid as I posted before, the hotwire method eliminates wiring faults but doesn't eliminate a duff solenoid, removing the plunger and spring eliminates the stop solenoid altogether.

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This may sound stupid from my side, but are the glow plugs wired up, one tends to forget the power supply wire to no 4 glow plug, as it tends to disappear behind the head when disconnected, or is it only the mechanical diesel pump systems that has glow plugs? Second basic test, "hot wire" the cut off solenoid directly from the battery.

Thanks eveyone, I've taken the day off today, Disco headache, went to play golf to forget it.... I'm back onto it tomorrow and will try everything out.really grateful for all the ideas...watch this space....

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Did you have any luck?

No joy at all... Tried everything and I'm getting no further. I' m loaning a trailer on Friday to take it up to the agents [god forbid!!] Will keep you posted on the outcome.

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The no 4 injector is a sensor injector for the EDC, is that connected correctly and in the right place, as you probably had the injectors out, it may be that you have broken the special injector as well?

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