Steve Warman Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 Right'o, I've just spent 2 hours trying to figure out why my sidelights kept blowing a fuse and managed to find a dodgy bit of cable that had broken down. It turned out to be on a previous cut and join and seems to have either blown or rusted and had deposited green oxide dust. I'm presuming it's due to either cndensation or water getting into it. it was taped up but thats clearly failed. So thats that fixed but it what does anyone use to seal their cabling after they've cut it? Does anyone have any ideas for some waterproof covering but it does need to be realtively easily removeable/accessible in case it happens again. Thanks Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 heatshrink, or even better, glue-lined heatshrink, is the stuff you want to be using Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lister1 Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 heat shrink the join and the cover with loom tape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Broadbent Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 Another vote for heatshrink the loom tape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 Glue-lined heatshrink, heatshrink, or self-amalgamating tape for field repairs. Sparky tape is not a permanent solution to anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirkthe1 Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 has anyone seen that rescue tape? i went to belltring and there was a guy there.it looked great stuff with a thousand and one uses. did anyone else see it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpb Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 Heat shrink is good. Instead of loom tape for cables that run round the engine bay & under the chassis I use split conveluted truncking. Gives lots of mechanical protection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 or spiral wrap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taz90 Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 also the right size crimps for the cable. when i do any wiring i solder all my joints and use non insulated crimps. and use the correct crimper, and then solder them and sleeve with glue lined heatshrink. i also use loom tape, split conduit and normal 20mm/25mm conduit with glands to protect the cables. nothing worse than a load of blue crimps used for all sizes of cable. faults just waiting to happen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 Spiral wrap & convoluted trunking are good for bundles of wires but not really suitable for protecting any bare conductor that's been repaired or joined. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzie1989 Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 Another vote for the glue-lined heatshrink - connect first with an non-insulated crimp and possibly solder too, then because the glue goes runny (get it nice and hot) it will get in all areas of your chosen connector making sure of no water ingress etc. You can get packets of the stuff cheaply enough from maplins if you just want a small quantity... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 How does self amalgamating tape work? I once bought a roll of 'loom tape' on the basis that it was better than lecky tape. I wrapped it round and round but it just wouldn't stay stuck to itself What was I missing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 How does self amalgamating tape work? I once bought a roll of 'loom tape' on the basis that it was better than lecky tape.I wrapped it round and round but it just wouldn't stay stuck to itself What was I missing? Loom tape doesn't really stick to anything much. Sparky tape just disintegrates into a sticky mess. Self amalgamating tape isn't sticky but actually sort of melts into itself and forms a blob of rubber round whatever you wrap it round. It's used a lot to protect connectors on radio masts / rooftops etc. as once you've wrapped it up it's basically as if you'd dipped the thing in rubber. Doesn't care about being wet when it goes on either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinspragg Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 I agree with all of the above but would add Liquid Tape. I'm not sure if it available in the UK but it's like runny silicone sealant. I use it on all my boats, I use heat shrink followed by a coat of liquid tape then some other tape (whatever I have) and more liquid tape. Works a treat in a salty wet bilge and is now being tested on my Defender. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tris Cocks Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 How does self amalgamating tape work? I once bought a roll of 'loom tape' on the basis that it was better than lecky tape.I wrapped it round and round but it just wouldn't stay stuck to itself What was I missing? Self amalgamating tape works wonders if its used correctly, to make it stick to itself you need to stretch it to double its length or more then wrapping it round the cable/joint etc, once it is them laid ontop of itself it looks like it almost melts into the other and will protect against most things, but its a pain in the behind if yout trying to pull it off again - from experience its easier to cut off. Tris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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