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mot time - steering stops


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Yes. It is definitely a fail. I had to rebook mine after the bloke at the testing station came out of the workshop when I was turning round in the carpark - the BFGs make a nice noise as they flap off the radius arms at slow speeds!! The bloke was quite amused that I'd even bothered turning up!!

I asked if he could put it down as an advisory, but he told me it wasn't worth his licence as it's a black and white case.

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it is a failure by the book yes.

I would not doubt this at all.

However, in the case of the 3 defenders I have owned plus my SI coiler comp motor, all of which have had witness marks on the radius arms due to carefully-set (ahem) lock stops ( I used to trial a lot), none has ever even had even an advisory on any of their MOT's.

All sorts of other stuff, obviously - they are LR's, after all :rolleyes:

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Speedo is not part of the MOT although depending on the age of the vehicle it is a C&U offence if its not working.

Pre 78 must have at least one rear view mirror, (fitted and unbroken).

Post 78 must have two rear view mirrors, one of which must be on the offside (fitted and unbroken).

So depends on the age of your vehicle and the position of the broken mirror as whether it will fail.

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2 more quick question:

1. Do you need the speedo to work for mot

2. Is a cracked wing mirrow glass an mot failure

cheers

1. not a fail but not legal

2. you need 2 good mirrors (center and off side or near side and off side).

my wheel blocks are in the tool box ready to go back in for the next mot

but the mot tester did coment on my plates

post-5542-1229211161_thumb.jpg

but passed as the tyres missed the arms

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Speedo - no, but you are legally required to have one working.

Any mirror must be in good working order, so a cracked one will fail - even if the other two are in good order. Mirror requirement for the MOT is two mirrors for viewing rearwards. If you have three mirrors, then you can remove the cracked one (entirely - not just the glass), and the vehicle will pass.

Les.

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1. not a fail but not legal

2. you need 2 good mirrors (center and off side or near side and off side).

my wheel blocks are in the tool box ready to go back in for the next mot

but the mot tester did coment on my plates

but passed as the tyres missed the arms

Lrfarmer is that a peice of metal on the radius arm? this is what i was thinking of using.

The mot testing manual says "c. security and correct adjustment of lock stops if fitted Note: Some vehicles have lock stops comprising soft metal pads on the body for the front tyres to rub against. These are acceptable if they are properly maintained so that they do not damage the tyres."

cheers

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would it not be easier to remove the remains of the existing stops & fit new ones, anything that touches the tyre will eventually wear it.

Four days have passed since the first post. While the discussion on various lock stops has been interesting, I would have followed the suggestion by Western and despatched that job. Plates, etc on radius arms can be done at your leisure.

For my ten penneth, the standard lock stops can be adjusted so that the tyre just clears the radius arm and will give as tight a lock as letting the tyre rub on a plate.

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Four days have passed since the first post. While the discussion on various lock stops has been interesting, I would have followed the suggestion by Western and despatched that job. Plates, etc on radius arms can be done at your leisure.

For my ten penneth, the standard lock stops can be adjusted so that the tyre just clears the radius arm and will give as tight a lock as letting the tyre rub on a plate.

The reason im considering this is because im also trying to put my clutch, gearbox, transferbox, rebuild both swivels and sort various electrical issues and few other things, so i was just trying to find a quick solution but if there isnt one i will drill the old stops out and fit new ones.

cheers

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:blink: How I suffered drilling my snapped or betterstill headless steering stop. It ate over 10 drill chrome pieces. But it I finally got the old one and Paddocks have a solid type which is much stronger than the old stop- Besides the stop are high tensile metals!!Below is the bit!

post-7610-1229426786_thumb.jpg

post-7610-1229426837_thumb.jpg

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However, in the case of the 3 defenders I have owned plus my SI coiler comp motor, all of which have had witness marks on the radius arms due to carefully-set (ahem) lock stops ( I used to trial a lot), none has ever even had even an advisory on any of their MOT's.

If it's anything like mine the lock stops are set for the tyres clearing while stationary and on flat ground. Off road and under articluation the tyres will then rub slightly due to the steering effect of the axle when articulated and the deflection in the bushes. Hence no fail as they did not rub 'at the time of the test'.

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If it's anything like mine the lock stops are set for the tyres clearing while stationary and on flat ground. Off road and under articluation the tyres will then rub slightly due to the steering effect of the axle when articulated and the deflection in the bushes. Hence no fail as they did not rub 'at the time of the test'.

...probably also due to the flex in the walls of the tyres themselves whist off-roading...

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  • 4 weeks later...

Finally got round to sorting it yesterday, by taking the hub off there was enough thread to weld a nut onto the thread and undo it from that side.

Only thing i need to do now is the hand brake, but ive got the cable adjusted to its limit but the shoes dont move at all when i put the brake on is this likely to be a stretched cable of somthing to do with the expander unit?

cheers

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