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Hi

I have recently purchased a fairly standard Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, R Reg and have a number of queries. I have already read some fantastic advice on how to tighten up the wipers on this forum, and I'm hoping you can help with the following:

1. Can I replace the pins in the door hinges, or must I replace the whole hinge unit. I have punches etc. If so, where can I get the pins?

2. Can I mix 6-ply and 8-ply tyres on the same axle (they are the same make and model - original Avon Rangemasters)?

3. Can I mount the spare on the bonnet (like a Series)? I would prefer to get it off the back door - makes it too heavy.

4. I get a severe clunk when changing gear in lower gears, BEFORE the clutch starts to take up. She had a recon R380 gearbox and clutch operating lever fitted in jan 08 apparently. A clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder and Borg & Beck clutch kit were fitted Dec 07. Any thoughts or advice appreciated.

Many thanks. Steve

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1. Can I replace the pins in the door hinges, or must I replace the whole hinge unit. I have punches etc. If so, where can I get the pins?

New hinges are the solution as the pin only wears a little and the hinge casting wears a lot.

2. Can I mix 6-ply and 8-ply tyres on the same axle (they are the same make and model - original Avon Rangemasters)?

Not sure if it is legal but it is not advisable, buy matched pairs at the very least.

3. Can I mount the spare on the bonnet (like a Series)? I would prefer to get it off the back door - makes it too heavy.

Yes, as long as seeing where you are going is not a priority.

4. I get a severe clunk when changing gear in lower gears, BEFORE the clutch starts to take up. She had a recon R380 gearbox and clutch operating lever fitted in jan 08 apparently. A clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder and Borg & Beck clutch kit were fitted Dec 07. Any thoughts or advice appreciated.

Not much help on this one I fear. :(

Chris

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Spare wheel on bonnet = damaged bonnet frame (eventually) and limited visibility

Spare wheel on back door = fractured frame (eventually)

Neither are really designed to withstand the weight - only a chassis mounted swing-away carrier does away with the damage, but at a cost.

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The clonk could be the transfer box input gear, an easy and relatively cheap in-situ replacement especially if the gearbox output is still in good nick. There's stuff on here (most likely the tech archive) on how to check & replace. Buy a cross-drilled one from Ashcrofts.

Never heard of major problems with the spare on the bonnet :unsure: a stock rangemaster shouldn't stress it too much, certainly better than just hanging on the back door and b*ggering the hinges. Hopefully it's the case that you need to open the bonnet less than you need to open the back door :ph34r:

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If you go for new hinges order TD5 parts as they are bushed somehow and last longer.

They will fit the same as conventional ones.

John

Wish I had known that in the summer when I put new hinges on the nas :(

Good one to remember

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Never heard of major problems with the spare on the bonnet :unsure: a stock rangemaster shouldn't stress it too much, certainly better than just hanging on the back door and b*ggering the hinges. Hopefully it's the case that you need to open the bonnet less than you need to open the back door :ph34r:

Maybe you haven't seen any but then you may not have had the "pleasure"(?) of maintaining ex-MOD and quarry-use Defenders, which were the main sufferers of cracked bonnet frames at our workshop. I also remember a number of expedition Defenders suffering in the same way - they seemed to get beaten to bits by the corrugations found on some roads in Africa in particular.

I'm not saying every bonnet will suffer the same fate, but if it has a lot of rough use, it will increase the chances of damage.

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with a 300tdi i know the military went to side mounts for the spare wheel due to the lack of strengthening in the bonnet and the close proximity of the injector pipes, emphasised potential damage when off roading etc.

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Maybe you haven't seen any but then you may not have had the "pleasure"(?) of maintaining ex-MOD and quarry-use Defenders, which were the main sufferers of cracked bonnet frames at our workshop. I also remember a number of expedition Defenders suffering in the same way - they seemed to get beaten to bits by the corrugations found on some roads in Africa in particular.

I'm not saying every bonnet will suffer the same fate, but if it has a lot of rough use, it will increase the chances of damage.

I haven't had the pleasure as a 37" creepy is too big for bonnet or back door so lives indoors :P my reasoning was that a saggy bonnet is less of a pain than a knackered back door. My back door has suffered from rough roads even without a spare wheel on it :lol:

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Thanks to all for the advice. I will go for new hinges, but don't know how to specify TD5 ones. I'm not going to be doing any really rough stuff, just agricultural and hunting type off-roading so I may still think about the wheel on bonnet idea (the retro look appeals) - I'll keep looking out for the relevant bits. Sorting out the clunk may take a while but I'll check all the things you suggest. Many thanks once again. Steve

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I carry one of my spare wheels on the bonnet. I'm not able to lift a wheel and tyre up onto the roofrack. Anyways I have more than enough weight up there for starters. Remember that the Land Rover handbook for the Defender states 75kg max roof weight :ph34r:

So far the bonnet has survived three trips to southern Africa and the corrugated roads. More than can be said for the UK three pin plug :rolleyes:

The biggest problem with bonnet damage is by my knees when removing the spare wheel from it mount.

I've found that the MOD series three bonnet strap is acceptable and two of the MOD bonnet catches help as well.

mike

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