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help my clutch isn't working


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hi all

over the last week or so my clutch seems to be disapearing the bighting point seems to getting lower and lower,

today when i tried to drive my beloved landy the clutch pedal goes almost all the way to the floor with no resisitance until the very last fraction and the bight point is so low that if you wiggle your big toe then that is the clutch in and out, i have not noticed the clutch sliping at all

does this meen that my clutch plate needs replacing or could it be something else.

any help/ideas are much appreciated

thanks

paul

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:unsure: When my clutch gave in, I resorted to changing the master cylinder and slave cylinder. Quite an easy job though. It recovered shortly afterwards. Do you smell lots of brakefluid in the footwell? A common symptom when the Master cylinder is reaching old age :huh:
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Sounds more like the hydraulic system that operates the clutch at fault than the clutch itself- my feeling would be master cylinder failing if you are not losing fluid from the system? Try clamping the flexi hose prior to the slave cylinder (use a proper hose clamp to prevent damaging the hose)- with it clamped you should not be able to push down the clutch pedal-if you can them the master cylinder is dead and needs replacing/ overhauling.

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I had the same problem on my Defender (-00). I replaced master-, hose and slave cylinder. Problem solved.

Beware that changing the master cylinder is not a "10 minute job" since you have to remove the whole clutch pedal assembly. It's not difficult, but a bit fiddly.

The other two are very simple.

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hi all

over the last week or so my clutch seems to be disapearing the bighting point seems to getting lower and lower,

today when i tried to drive my beloved landy the clutch pedal goes almost all the way to the floor with no resisitance until the very last fraction and the bight point is so low that if you wiggle your big toe then that is the clutch in and out, i have not noticed the clutch sliping at all

does this meen that my clutch plate needs replacing or could it be something else.

any help/ideas are much appreciated

thanks

paul

mine is exactly the same, pump the pedal a few times hard and its ok for 10 mins! its only been since its been cold so i presume the seals have gone hard, the fluid level doesnt drop at all on mine. it is possible to replace the master cylinder with the pedal in situ.

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mine is exactly the same, pump the pedal a few times hard and its ok for 10 mins! its only been since its been cold so i presume the seals have gone hard, the fluid level doesnt drop at all on mine. it is possible to replace the master cylinder with the pedal in situ.

Hamish, having done mine just after buying it a year ago, I found that there are only 6 bolts holding the pedal in so you might as well make life a bit easier by taking it out and then changing the master.

It means a bit more effort but it also means you can get all around the pedal box if required.

Steve

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Just another note from when I did mine, I managed to twist the copper pipe that lead around the bulkhead and down to the slave.

My solution to this was to change to a braided tube from Dave at llama 4x4 (member on here) which made life a hell of a lot easier to fit as it was nice and flexible where needed and runs from master to slave in one piece rather than multiple sections (the small section at the bottom went on me during my clutch problems before swapping the hydraulics out).

Steve

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just changed me clutch to a 130 HD now have this problem got a slave but they gave me the wrong, one got a master, but cant undo the pipe on top

all this after the gear box went in first time with no problem everything went smoothly till i went to test it

poo

only other thought i had is if the push rod on a 130 was longer than the 105mm one on mine

dave

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amend my reply above, should have said if yours is a LT77 the clutch pushrod is part frc3417 & R380 version is ftc4229 for 4 cylinder engined vehicles, my apologies thought they were the same item, it could however just be a part number update, as I don't know the as new length of each pushrod.

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If the clutch action improves with pumping, then air is getting in the system. In my experience this is a slave cylinder problem. If you remove it and open the dust cap - there's usually some fluid inside. Wheel cylinders sometimes do this as well with no obvious leaks.

Les.

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I had the same problem on my Defender (-00). I replaced master-, hose and slave cylinder. Problem solved.

Beware that changing the master cylinder is not a "10 minute job" since you have to remove the whole clutch pedal assembly. It's not difficult, but a bit fiddly.

The other two are very simple.

mmmmmm i think i might need to take a look at mine.

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