mickeyw Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 Hi All, I am struggling to remove the crank pulley nut from a V8 coupled to an auto box. How can the engine be prevented from rotating so I can get some oomph into a big socket on the crank nut? All I am managing to do so far is turn the engine over and over Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discojmz Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 If it's anything like the tdi, theres a tool that can be aquired for many pounds that holds the crank pulley while you undo the bolt but im sure a grown-up will be along to confirm/disprove this theory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GKP Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 Wedge something large and screwdriver shaped into the teeth of the flywheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 I went through every suggestion on this forum trying to remove the crank pulley bolt on my V8 - Auto makes no difference, even with a manual in 5th and the handbrake on I couldn't undo it due to transmission wind up. The final solution was to use my windy rattler. I had tried it before but the nut didn't shift - the difference this time was that I just left it going - resting when the compressor needed to catch up - for maybe five minutes - then, slowly, it started to come undone. Hope you have a rattler! Good luck with it.. Rog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RangeyRover Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 You have to do this for MJ or MS. I didn't know either. My mate showed me how. Underneath the auto box is an inspection plate. Open it up, shove a large screwdriver in to jam the drive train steady. Remove the nut on the crank pulley. Didn't need a rattle gun. RR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted January 18, 2009 Author Share Posted January 18, 2009 Thanks for all the suggestions guys. GKP - I'd have to remove the starter motor to use flywheel teeth, an ar5e of a job on its own on a RRC. Rog, I would have tried 1st low box rather than 5th with a manual... Rangey Rover, I did it your way [without singing]. Removed the cover plate in the bottom of the bell housing and stuck a stout lever in there and found a suitable position for it to lock against. Big socket plus bollo**ing back on the crank pulley and result! Nice 'n' easy when you know how Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RangeyRover Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 Thanks for all the suggestions guys.GKP - I'd have to remove the starter motor to use flywheel teeth, an ar5e of a job on its own on a RRC. Rog, I would have tried 1st low box rather than 5th with a manual... Rangey Rover, I did it your way [without singing]. Removed the cover plate in the bottom of the bell housing and stuck a stout lever in there and found a suitable position for it to lock against. Big socket plus bollo**ing back on the crank pulley and result! Nice 'n' easy when you know how your welcome. I had to ask an adult. (mind you things come full circle, I fitted Megajolt on it for him) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 I had to triple check this in my head and I would recommend you confirm it in person before trying it but I believe you can stick a breaker bar on the bolt, wedge it against the chassis and flick the starter. Disconnecting the ignition (king lead or whatever) would be a wise move if you're trying it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 Wedge something large and screwdriver shaped into the teeth of the flywheel. Or maybe a block of (hard) wood, so that the load is spread over several teeth. Also if you jam the ring gear, and are using the breaker bar technique you can jack the end of the bar rather than using the starter ( which I agree can be quick and easy but has unpredictable results!) Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 I use a short piece of 1 inch angle, take the front cover off the bellhousing and wedge it into the flywheel teeth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris123 Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 I dropped the sump, grabbed a plank of 2x4 & covered it in a rag (so it didn't splinter) and wedged it between the crank and the block. This was after I went through several pieces of metal trying to jam the bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 Rog, I would have tried 1st low box rather than 5th with a manual... Really? Glad to hear that jamming worked. Still prefer my rattler-gun though Rog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted January 19, 2009 Author Share Posted January 19, 2009 Really? Glad to hear that jamming worked. Still prefer my rattler-gun though Rog Rog, Had a think about what you said re 5th gear and realised you are right. 1st gear as I said would be not so good Rattle gun is OK with engine out of car, with engine in the front cross member gets in the way on RRC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 Rattle gun is OK with engine out of car, with engine in the front cross member gets in the way on RRC. Hello again On my RRC I think there is enough clearance for my gun to go over the cross-member - but the radiator had to come out.. It worked anyway! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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