oap Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 Hi readers has anyone got any tips on how to remove a stubborn hinge bolt? Iv bought a stainless steel hinge bolt set and while trying to replace the old bolts one of them has me beaten. Its the second from top on the drivers side on the bulkhead, the j clip (nut) has broken and the whole thing just spins when I try to free it. The same thing happens when I try to drill it out and there is not enough room to get a saw between the hinge and bulkhead. What am I doing wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landmannnn Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 Hold the bolt with mole grips while drilling? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oap Posted June 6, 2009 Author Share Posted June 6, 2009 Hold the bolt with mole grips while drilling?There is nowhere to grip the bloody thing though. One end is in the bulkhead with a broken j-nut on it that that I cant even see. The other end is recessed into the hinge with just enough room for a torx bit or a drill bit but they are more lightly to start a fire with friction than actually remove the bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landmannnn Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 If you stick hinge bolt into the search box you will find it is a common problem. The angle grinder solution is satisfying but messes the hinge up. Wedging a small screwdriver to stop the head turning is possible, likewise drilling a small hole to lock the bolt shaft. If you have access to a plasma cutter you could get the bolt head off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oap Posted June 6, 2009 Author Share Posted June 6, 2009 Thanks for your help and I have the grinder set up ready to go but thought Id ask on here first. A plasma cutter now that would be to easy and I only wish I had one. Ill try one more time with the drill and small screwdriver thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 Thanks for your help and I have the grinder set up ready to go but thought Id ask on here first. A plasma cutter now that would be to easy and I only wish I had one. Ill try one more time with the drill and small screwdriver thanks again What about a very fine file block or cutting disc on a dremel? Its a small space, so it would need to be small, but the angle you grind/file at will determine if it will spin. The dremel will come in handy again if you havenlt already got one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crwoody Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 How about wedging a suitably thick screwdriver blade or pry bar (depending on available gap) between the hinge and bulkhead to lever the hinge outwards against the bolt head and jam it enough to stop it slipping while drilling the bolt head out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gringo Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 I was going to mention Dremel, too. I have had great results using mine to gently create two flat spots on opposite sides of a low profile, domed head, and then using an adjustable wrench to hold the thing steady while I attack it at will. You mentioned you have new hinges...so don't care about damaging the one you are removing? How bout drilling a small hole through the edge of the head and into the hinge just far enough to get some kind of small pin into it to lock it from turning? I was thinking a cut-off finishing nail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oap Posted June 6, 2009 Author Share Posted June 6, 2009 What about a very fine file block or cutting disc on a dremel? Its a small space, so it would need to be small, but the angle you grind/file at will determine if it will spin. The dremel will come in handy again if you havenlt already got one. I think a dremel is a flexable drive that I can attach small grinder disks or drill bits to ? If so my brother in law has one but havent asked him for it yet anyway. Its started to rain heavy now so Ill look again in the morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oap Posted June 6, 2009 Author Share Posted June 6, 2009 I was going to mention Dremel, too. I have had great results using mine to gently create two flat spots on opposite sides of a low profile, domed head, and then using an adjustable wrench to hold the thing steady while I attack it at will.You mentioned you have new hinges...so don't care about damaging the one you are removing? How bout drilling a small hole through the edge of the head and into the hinge just far enough to get some kind of small pin into it to lock it from turning? I was thinking a cut-off finishing nail. Hi Gringo I dont have new hinges just new stainless steel bolts, but I wish Id gotten new hinges now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oap Posted June 6, 2009 Author Share Posted June 6, 2009 How about wedging a suitably thick screwdriver blade or pry bar (depending on available gap) between the hinge and bulkhead to lever the hinge outwards against the bolt head and jam it enough to stop it slipping while drilling the bolt head out. Yep Iv tryed that there is just about enough room to get a hacksaw blade between the hinge and the bulkhead but I cannot stop it spining. If I use the blade to cut the bolt it will scratch all the paint off around the hinge and it dont need any more scratches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 If the blade wont stop the bolt spinning, then can you spin the bolt with the drill and cut through the shank of the bolt by pushing down on the hacksaw blade? The blade will stay still so you wont scratch your paint... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 Have you tried jamming the countersunk bolt head with an old small bladed screwdriver before attempting to drill a small pilot hole? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oap Posted June 6, 2009 Author Share Posted June 6, 2009 If the blade wont stop the bolt spinning, then can you spin the bolt with the drill and cut through the shank of the bolt by pushing down on the hacksaw blade?The blade will stay still so you wont scratch your paint... Now I know you proberly wont belive me but Iv just come up with this idea myself after a couple of beers and cant see why it wont work. Bishbosh your a genius cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hattymender Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 Drill out? Why? Remove door. And the 2nd bolt. The J-nut is located in a key hole with about 3/4" square above it for installation/removal. Just give hinge a tap upwards with hammer. Hinge should move up and you can remove, may be a bit of a fiddle to align blind but it'll come out. Then you can set about bolt/j-nut with your selected instrument of torture in vice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hattymender Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 Drill out? Why?Remove door. And the 2nd bolt. The J-nut is located in a key hole with about 3/4" square above it for installation/removal. Just give hinge a tap upwards with hammer. Hinge should move up and you can remove, may be a bit of a fiddle to align blind but it'll come out. Then you can set about bolt/j-nut with your selected instrument of torture in vice? Strike that. I'm being thick. There's a hole below the access hole. I nobbled mine to make a slot last time I had this pantomime, if your's are standard you can't tap up. Sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oap Posted June 6, 2009 Author Share Posted June 6, 2009 Drill out? Why?Remove door. And the 2nd bolt. The J-nut is located in a key hole with about 3/4" square above it for installation/removal. Just give hinge a tap upwards with hammer. Hinge should move up and you can remove, may be a bit of a fiddle to align blind but it'll come out. Then you can set about bolt/j-nut with your selected instrument of torture in vice? Know I have not taken the door off because of this bolt. I was afraid to pass the point of no return (my landrover will not fit in my workshop) Im going to win this battle tommorow though one way or another! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 bolt passes through the bulkhead too, so the lift off the door & remove bolt in workshop can't be done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oap Posted June 6, 2009 Author Share Posted June 6, 2009 bolt passes through the bulkhead too, so the lift off the door & remove bolt in workshop can't be done. Now you have lost me but Iv had a few drinks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 Now you have lost me but Iv had a few drinks J nut clipped to edge of bulkhead door hinge bolt pases throught the hinge [bulkhead part] door structure/bulkhead/ into the J nut if it wasn't passed through the bulkhead edge the door & hinge would not be attached to the vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oap Posted June 6, 2009 Author Share Posted June 6, 2009 Sorry Western if I read it a few times I understand. Im off to bed this is not a good place to be tipsy or drunk even. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 Sorry Western if I read it a few times I understand. Im off to bed this is not a good place to be tipsy or drunk even. you'll be much better & more with it after a good sleep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 you'll be much better & more with it after a good sleep. I've just got in after a few and i left a big hole in the rear crossmember before i went to the pub! Will post about that tommoro - is a 110 crossmember easier to change than a 90!?? I feel for you with your hinge screw - very frustrating! But i'm going to buy a dremel tommoro to get into those gaps......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 in our tech archive Uncle Les did a thread on 110 rear cross member replacement, got to be worth a look when your sober again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 in our tech archive Uncle Les did a thread on 110 rear cross member replacement, got to be worth a look when your sober again I thought that Uncle Les' post was for a 90 but will look again - it takes longer to post messages that make sense after a few than when sober! I only went out to fix a half inch hole.......then it became as big as a third of a cross member (exageration - but only slightly) when a hammer was employed - i figure its good practice with the mig to repair this now ready for the replacement crossmember! Wish i'd done the BBQ grill now rather than the landy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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