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Air Diff Locker


TURMOIL

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I've got a ARB air diff lock which I'm about to install, bought it second hand, as usual it came without any instructions, I can sort out the fitting side of things without to much trouble (joy of running a Haulage Company, big workshop, plenty of helpfull machanics willing to help) I have purchased a new T-Max crompressor which I must admit looks excellent value for the £60 it cost. but does the Diff lock need contant air supply, it looks to me to be a piston mechanisn, i.e its either in or out, if this it the case could I not just use a lorry air tank to provide the air???

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I've got a ARB air diff lock which I'm about to install, bought it second hand, as usual it came without any instructions, I can sort out the fitting side of things without to much trouble (joy of running a Haulage Company, big workshop, plenty of helpfull machanics willing to help) I have purchased a new T-Max crompressor which I must admit looks excellent value for the £60 it cost. but does the Diff lock need contant air supply, it looks to me to be a piston mechanisn, i.e its either in or out, if this it the case could I not just use a lorry air tank to provide the air???

Yes, you could use a lorry air tank. We have used paintball co2 cylinders for pneumatic gearshifters, I dare say one of those could be adapted too.

I would say that the compressor would be more versatile because you can use it to inflate tyres etc. You'd need a big lorry tank to do that!

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Basically you need to keep about 80PSI in the locker to keep it engaged. That could come from a compressor or an air tank. Obviously with a tank you would only have a finite number of actuations whereas a compressor gives you an infinite amount of actuations...

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You'd need a big lorry tank to do that!

errrr, no, do you know how much braking force a lorry tank gives a lorry, methinks a tank off a 6 or 8 wheeler would do the job. would be cheap as chips too.

mikey

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Having a tank is optional.

You can plumb your T-max in with a regulator to give ~85-90psi to give safe actuation of locker/s. So you put regulator on output of compressor and then feed into air solenoid. If you want to use the compressor to inflate tyres too, fit either a two way switch before the regulator or fit some quick disconnect fittings between the compressor and regulator.

To save activating the compressor all the time and to give more air volume for inflating tyres etc you could fit a tank.

You now need to fit a pressure switch to tank and this switch operates the electrical feed to the compressor. You have two options for the pressure switch, one that works at safe operating pressures of ARB or one that works at the maximum safe operating pressure of the tank you have fitted. The first keeps things simple and you can feed the arb's and a tyre air line straight from the tank. The second gives you more air volume per fill from the compressor, but you'll need a regulator on the output line for the arb's to keep it a their operating pressure.

btw, you'll need 5mm air line for the arb's fittings.

Also there isn't much air volumes used in activating the arb's, so you'd get quite a few activations before starting the compressor on a 2.5+ gallon tank

Cheers

Steve

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errrr, no, do you know how much braking force a lorry tank gives a lorry, methinks a tank off a 6 or 8 wheeler would do the job. would be cheap as chips too.

mikey

what sort of pressure do these tanks run at ?

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errrr, no, do you know how much braking force a lorry tank gives a lorry, methinks a tank off a 6 or 8 wheeler would do the job. would be cheap as chips too.

Hang on, you're at risk of confusing pressure, and volume, required.

Chucking some rough figures around, an air brake tank at 120 PSI will only fill 3 tyres of equivilant volume from 0 to 30 psi. (and that third tyre would take a while to fill!)

Granted, you won't be filling from 0psi, and you may not fill to 30psi, nor may your reservoir be at 120psi, or of equivilant volume (probably significantly less) but using a lorry tank without a compressor to fill tyres doesn't add up.

Diving/welding cylinder is a different matter, due to the higher fill pressure.

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You really need a tank of some description, to make life easy the pressure switch on the tank should turn the compressor off at 90PSI and on below 80PSI. You could possibly use a regulator but running a compressor when you have the lockers in for a period of time is a waste and may well lead to the compressor overheating, not to mention the noise !

You should also have a pressure relief valve to ensure the tank can't exceed it's safe working pressure if something goes wrong with the electrics and leaves the compressor running. You probably don't want to be anywhere near a steel tank that is pumped up past it's tested pressure...

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If you do fit a tank, make sure you put a PRV (presure relief valve) in the system somewhere (preferably on the tank itself) set at below the tanks design pressure.

This should always blow before the tank splits in half...

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what sort of pressure do these tanks run at ?

Nearly everything on the roads here run at 8 bar for the brakes, and 12 bar for the suspension.

The huge braking force trucks have is down to the spring pressure in the brake chambers/anchor locks.

The brakes are constantly mechanically applied (as said, a very strong spring), and are released by applying air pressure to a diaphragm operating against the spring to release them. But 8 bar, ~120psi, is sufficient to release them.

Most half decent compressors will put out 120psi. Charge the airtank at base, have a regulator set at the 90psi required.

Sounds simple !

You should also have a pressure relief valve to ensure the tank can't exceed it's safe working pressure if something goes wrong with the electrics and leaves the compressor running. You probably don't want to be anywhere near a steel tank that is pumped up past it's tested pressure...

It's unlikely you'll need a prv in a truck air tank. They normally run at 12bar/180psi. What's the maximum you'll get out of your workshop compressor? Mine's all out at 140psi. Most truck tanks these days are aluminium.

Diving/welding cylinder is a different matter, due to the higher fill pressure.

You're very right, but my understanding was the OP was about pre-filling a tank, to use in place of a compressor.

How many people have the facilty to charge an air tank past the capacity of their workshop compressor?

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