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110 vs 130 pro's & con's


RGK

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Since a young age working in a local garage and helping to build the bosses defender v8 conversion, Robinhood and Cobra replica, my ambition to do my own project one day has never waned...and now older with a family I have decided to plan & make my ambition come true (boys and their toys, just get bigger when they get older).

Now with a family in toe a two seater sporty number isn't practical and now in civil engineer an all round machine would suit me better.

Hence a defender ticks all the boxes (work, home, modifiable, and great fun in the mud)

I'm looking for some advise if anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated...the initial plans are to build my own defender 110 or 130 hybrid based on a Range Rover chassis...

1) Apart from the obvious (ie 20" longer and extending the chassis) what are the pron's and con's of a 110 compared to the 130?

2) There are a number of specifications of Range Rover’s on the market with various additions, are there any models, year, etc I should avoid or must haves?

3) I have searched for chassis technical drawing of the 110's, 130's and Range Rover to compare, unfortunately with out success. Does anyone know where I can find copy's off?

Thanks, :)

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May i ask why you want to start with a rangie chassis? and not just buy a 110/130 and then modifiy that?

It was suggested to me and I thought made sense (at the time) that by buying and using a Range Rover I could use the engine (V8?, dreaming about a supercharged HSE, dreaming mind, but nice), air suspension, ABS, brakes, ac, interior (some, but more comfy for the wifey), etc and cut down on cost and time in modifying a 110 or 130.

Upon investigating Rangy’s do not seem to retain their value in comparison to the trusty defender, and defender body parts seem to be cheaper than Range Rover.

Thanks for your comments, as I really need guidance from ‘people-in-the-know’ before I start shelling £’s.

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Guest noggy

You do realise a RRC has a 100inch wheel base, and a 110 obviously has a 110inch wheel base.

If you go down this route, your going to have to modify the chassis a great deal, and that means SVA/IVA.

Plus, would you really want your family in a bodged together chassis?

It would turn out much cheaper to buy a 110, and drop a V8 in. Less hassle to get it road legal, and much safer.

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Just put the v8 into the 130, much simpler, if you're desperate for a more involved project then buy a big yank v8 and box and fit that!

Mike

Thanks, looks like i've had some duff advice (as previous quoted in my conversation with Keir)!

What would you say are the pron's & con's between 110 and 130?

to be honest the cost vs the benefit of a V8 vs diesel, i am now considering diesel

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You do realise a RRC has a 100inch wheel base, and a 110 obviously has a 110inch wheel base.

If you go down this route, your going to have to modify the chassis a great deal, and that means SVA/IVA.

Plus, would you really want your family in a bodged together chassis?

It would turn out much cheaper to buy a 110, and drop a V8 in. Less hassle to get it road legal, and much safer.

i've read that the RR2 has a wheelbase of 108".

Great point about 'cut'n'shunt' and family, hate to say it may be 'not-seeing-the-wood-for the trees'.

Do you have any advice regarding the +'s of 110 & 130?

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range rover classic lse has a 108" chassis too, any chassis over 110" ie a 130 has a join in the middle anyway! a 130" v8 crew cab would be a fun bit of kit with a huge ammount of carrying space but it is a looooong machine to drive and turn :D

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range rover classic lse has a 108" chassis too, any chassis over 110" ie a 130 has a join in the middle anyway! a 130" v8 crew cab would be a fun bit of kit with a huge ammount of carrying space but it is a looooong machine to drive and turn :D

only early 127 & 130 have a joint in the chassis, later 130 vehicles have a normal production build full chassis [no joints in the main chassis rails]

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130's are quite rare, mainly because they're a bit on the long side for normal use (in other words, you've got to really need the length to buy one). Depending on your budget Ex-MOD Rapier V8 130's come ready made.

A Range Rover is a good base for most projects 'cos it's so cheap to buy one with good underpinnings and a rusty body, but I wouldn't say it's a good idea to build a 110 or 130 out of one due to the chassis mods and loadings. 110's & 130's have Salisbury back axles rated to take more weight, I'd say to do it properly you'll want to do the same thing - especially if you plan to SVA it.

Early 110's (especially V8's) don't fetch much cash, so between a derelict 110 (body panels & running gear) a rusty RR or Disco (for engine/box/front axle/PAS as required) and maybe a nice galvanised chassis you could have a fairly complete kit of parts for ~£3k and probably finish the truck to a good standard for £4-5k. Or buy a decent 110 or 130 for £5k, save a lot of time and just fix/rennovate things as required.

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Depends where you live.

A 130 would be a living hell where we live as there are so many tight hairpin bends and awkward parking spaces, living in a town they aren't drastically worse than a 110 to live with once you are used to the extra turning circle you just naturally compensate. 130s aren't much longer than some of the Jap crew cabs but the turning circle is completely hopeless.

In your situation I'd decide if I could live with a 130 or could 'manage' with a 110 then buy a half decent old one and rebuild it on a new galv chassis and bulkhead. Comfort can be built in, theres loads of good sound deadening options, comfy seats, aircon, webasto heaters etc. Air suspension can be retro-fitted if you want to. Loads of engine choices from normal tdi's right up to yank V8s. Even Land Rovers own TDV8 is an option if you are brave...

Will :)

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I am glad you have had second thoughts about basing your vehicle on a RR. It is common for 90s to be built from Range Rovers as the chassis only needs shortening, but 110s and 130s not only had longer chassis than a Range Rover, they also have deeper chassis rails to prevent them from sagging in the middle.

Chris

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Your first and most important decison is to decide on your budget. Even if that is just what you can spare each month or a big bag of cash to do the whole thing. Either way this will let you decide which vehicle is right for you. So many projects fail because of budgets getting in the way and arguments over "how much your spending on that bl**dy car!"

I have had a 110 and I have a 127. To be honest they are totally different vehicles. the 110 was a CSW and the 127 is a double cab with a box on the back. I find the 127 very quiet on the road compared to the 110 or either of my 90's. I guess becausse the rear axle is under the load area and not a floor that would drum.

Also write down with your other half what you want to use the vehicle for, if you get them involved emotionally up front you will have more chance of completing the project. Perhaps your kids can get hands on to some of the non grinding roles? Thsi will also make it part of the family and less likey to be sold.

I would have a drive of a 110 and a 130 or 127 and see what you think. If your in this area your more than welcome to have a go in my 127.

TJ

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If you've not had and lived with a Defender before my advice would be to buy a reasonable 110 use it for a bit and if you find it is the vehicle for you rebuild it to your specs at your leisure. That way you find out if you and the family can tolerate the vehicle prior to investing wads of cash rebuilding.

Bear in mind that when it comes time to sell your custom build you probably won't get your full money back.

BTW as this is a Defender question the thread will be moving to the Defender forum soon.

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130's are quite rare, mainly because they're a bit on the long side for normal use (in other words, you've got to really need the length to buy one). Depending on your budget Ex-MOD Rapier V8 130's come ready made.

A Range Rover is a good base for most projects 'cos it's so cheap to buy one with good underpinnings and a rusty body, but I wouldn't say it's a good idea to build a 110 or 130 out of one due to the chassis mods and loadings. 110's & 130's have Salisbury back axles rated to take more weight, I'd say to do it properly you'll want to do the same thing - especially if you plan to SVA it.

Early 110's (especially V8's) don't fetch much cash, so between a derelict 110 (body panels & running gear) a rusty RR or Disco (for engine/box/front axle/PAS as required) and maybe a nice galvanised chassis you could have a fairly complete kit of parts for ~£3k and probably finish the truck to a good standard for £4-5k. Or buy a decent 110 or 130 for £5k, save a lot of time and just fix/rennovate things as required.

I agree totally with Fridge, if you want a 130 go for one that is based on a Ex-MOD Rapier V8 130. I have a MY94 (K Reg) that has had the back converted into a 'Box Van' and that has the 'One Piece' chassis (as opposed to the earlier extended 110). I think that genuine Defender 130's (as opposed to Land Rover 127's) were all 'One Piece', have the benefit of the HD Disc Braked Salisbury Rear Axle and therefore greater Load Carrying ability.

Colin.

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Catch up Ralph, it was old hat but now it's the future :P

On topic, I'd take up TJ's offer and have a drive in a couple of vehicles before buying one, Land Rovers are an acquired taste.

I must disagree with Fridge on this one, I think you either Love or Hate Land Rovers (I don't think there is anything acquired about it). Most people can tell within a few miles one way or the other. Although I have heard that some people can learn to live with them (if they have to) but never really Love them.

Colin.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Your first and most important decison is to decide on your budget. Even if that is just what you can spare each month or a big bag of cash to do the whole thing. Either way this will let you decide which vehicle is right for you. So many projects fail because of budgets getting in the way and arguments over "how much your spending on that bl**dy car!"

I have had a 110 and I have a 127. To be honest they are totally different vehicles. the 110 was a CSW and the 127 is a double cab with a box on the back. I find the 127 very quiet on the road compared to the 110 or either of my 90's. I guess becausse the rear axle is under the load area and not a floor that would drum.

Also write down with your other half what you want to use the vehicle for, if you get them involved emotionally up front you will have more chance of completing the project. Perhaps your kids can get hands on to some of the non grinding roles? Thsi will also make it part of the family and less likey to be sold.

I would have a drive of a 110 and a 130 or 127 and see what you think. If your in this area your more than welcome to have a go in my 127.

TJ

Thanks for the offer, a test drive and pearls of wisdom would be greatly appreciated (maybe over a pie & a pint). Which part of the country are you in?

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