Guest noggy Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 I am about to start the horrendous task of replacing my bulkhead on my 1986 90. whilst im at it, i will also replace my seatbox and battery box as they are both heavily corroded. Does anyone have any tips or advise before i start? i shall take pictures for others whilst i do it, so others can use it in the future! Cheers then! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markyboy Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 I am about to start the horrendous task of replacing my bulkhead on my 1986 90.whilst im at it, i will also replace my seatbox and battery box as they are both heavily corroded. Does anyone have any tips or advise before i start? i shall take pictures for others whilst i do it, so others can use it in the future! Cheers then! I think you should find a thread on here about bulkhead replacement, I'm sure it's been covered before. Try the tech archive. HTH. Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest noggy Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 I always search before i ask, and i am unable to find such a thread! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
konrad96 Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 I am about to start the horrendous task of replacing my bulkhead on my 1986 90.whilst im at it, i will also replace my seatbox and battery box as they are both heavily corroded. Does anyone have any tips or advise before i start? Hardest part of the bulkhead replacement is the undoing of the various nuts holding the sill channels to the foot of the bulkhead. There are two nuts fitted to two captive bolts, which are connected by a thin strip of steel. So if your bolts are stuck, which they normally are, the application of too much force will tear the steel strip and make it necessary to cut the little beggars out. If you can stretch to a new set of sill channels, you can cut the old ones off and remove the stumps from the bulkhead once its off the vehicle - much easier! And the new sills will make reassembly much easier. check the fit of the doors before you tighten up all the bulkhead fittings. Otherwise just take your time, make notes, label wiring connectors, and you shouldn't have too much trouble. best of luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 Just that you should sandblast and galvanize the new steel parts, and take the seat box apart to put some insulating (contact not heat) compound between the steel and aluminum (it is not hard) to hopefully avoid this happening again in the future. For the bulkhead it needs to be dipped no-quench and bolting a piece of square tube stock between the two sill bolt-holes will help dramatically reduce the risk of warping... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 Stating the obvious perhaps, but whilst the bulkhead is off I would take a very close look at the chassis and in particular the front outriggers. Very easy to replace with the bulkhead off, practically impossible once you've put it back on again... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisoleary Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 I tried looking for the same topic a couple of week ago with no luck. Take plenty of pics for a topic if you can I am going to try to do one one a 110 soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 The best way I have found is to get some friends round then you can remove the wings loosen the roof remove the windscreen frame and lift the bulkhead out complete, it weighs a ton though so be careful, its then much easier to swap all the bits over and refitting is the reverse of removal.... Buy some captive nuts for the hinges and a new foam seal for the heater Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest noggy Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 ive got hoists on the roof of my workshop so lifting it out shouldnt be a problem, but i am having 3 mates over to "supervise" which actually means smoke, drink tea/beer and insult me. ive started to soak all the nuts and bolts in central heating oil, as it is supposed to be better than WD40 at penetrating. do i have to remove my radiator? To replace my seatbox do i need to remove my tub? Im going to rewire the front of my landrover at the same time, does anyone know where i can buy the landrover connectors, so i dont have to bodge the old ones back on. chrisoleary: yes i will take plenty of pictures and make a "how NOT to replace your bulkhead" kind of guide Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 Remove the radiator Nooo.. No need to remove anything forwards of the bulkhead except the bonnet. Measure your door aperture gaps top and bottom . Use the measurements when refitting the new bulkhead. Unbolt everything attached to the bulkhead in engine compartment and tie it back/support it with some cord. Unbolt wings from bulkhead, unbolt chassis/bulkhead bolts, undo sill/bulkhead bolts. You will already have taken your dash out etc. disconnect wiring loom. loosen roof bolts at front, remove screen. Take doors off. take floor panels out. Remove steering wheel/column. Heave till your red in the face. Find the bolts you forgot to undo. Heave till your blue in the face. Undo the still attached bulkhead earth wire. Drag bulkhead out. I did mine solo in a day and a bit - easier as mines a soft top and I could stand up on the chassis and pull the bukhead up and away easily - if you can remove your roof easily it may help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest noggy Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 Remove the radiator Nooo..No need to remove anything forwards of the bulkhead except the bonnet. Measure your door aperture gaps top and bottom . Use the measurements when refitting the new bulkhead. Unbolt everything attached to the bulkhead in engine compartment and tie it back/support it with some cord. Unbolt wings from bulkhead, unbolt chassis/bulkhead bolts, undo sill/bulkhead bolts. You will already have taken your dash out etc. disconnect wiring loom. loosen roof bolts at front, remove screen. Take doors off. take floor panels out. Remove steering wheel/column. Heave till your red in the face. Find the bolts you forgot to undo. Heave till your blue in the face. Undo the still attached bulkhead earth wire. Drag bulkhead out. I did mine solo in a day and a bit - easier as mines a soft top and I could stand up on the chassis and pull the bukhead up and away easily - if you can remove your roof easily it may help? Now thats what i wanted to know! yeah i can take my roof off, its a truck cab and will only take 5 mins to pop off! i was reading a bulkhead replacement thing on another forums, do you need to disconnect all your brakes etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 i was reading a bulkhead replacement thing on another forums, do you need to disconnect all your brakes etc? You need to disconnect the brake and clutch lines from the master cylinders and all the wiring Don't worry its a pretty straightforward job, my wife and I did mine in a day Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markyboy Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 You need to disconnect the brake and clutch lines from the master cylinders and all the wiringDon't worry its a pretty straightforward job, my wife and I did mine in a day Mike Alternatively unbolt the master cylinders with the brake/clutch lines still attached and tie them up out of the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 you can tie them back ok - I removed the clutch as it's easy enough and was going to pop an new cylinder on anyway. these might be of use - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedx Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 Though not purely dealing with the bulkhead, I've found this website to be very informative www.sjnash.co.uk Colin www.REEDX.net/landrover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landmannnn Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 My tips, for what they are worth: Soak every nut and bolt beforehand Paint the new bits well enough in advance so they have fully dried Buy loads of nuts and bolts, the door hinge ones will definitely be scrap for example Unless you have a wide garage do the job outdoors and order good weather! Steam/jetwash as much of the last 23 years of crud off as possible Think about what else you might want to replace, floor panels for example are quite cheap Enjoy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hattymender Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 Wings and bolts and seals. To unbolt the wings you need to remove the wheel spats, about 50% of the fasteners will break or just disappear (where? who knows, probably where Biro's go when you need one), so get some spares. About 15p each. If I recall correctly there's 4 bolts into bulkhead, you can get at the three lower ones with 1/2" or 13mm socket on extensions. Upper one on drivers side is tricky but possible. To get at passenger side it's easier with heater removed. To remove heater it's easier with wing removed! It can be done, but it's s#d to get to. When you remove the heater the rubber donut seal thing will stick to either heater, bulkhead or both. Budget on a new one cos' you'll be lucky to get it off in one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisoleary Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 Though not purely dealing with the bulkhead, I've found this website to be very informativewww.sjnash.co.uk Colin www.REEDX.net/landrover That's a good link as I've just realised that my replacement bulkhead which was included is also a td5 version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 rad - no leave it in if its a later td5 bulkhead the trim mounting points will be different (unless you have the trim on the replacement one too) clutch and brakes i just remove them from the bullhead and cable tie them back out of the way. heater matrix i leave on the bulkhead until its out of the bay - its too difficult to change in situ in good time (for me anyway). i have used an engine crane in the past to do the change solo roof can stay on, just take the windscreen out, loosen the B pillar and back roof bolts to help with the screen coming out, the rear ones can stay in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMac1 Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 Think I'd rather have done the bulkhead that the footwell I replaced on mine. Real PITA, could have done some other jobs as well while it was out! Sure I'll be reading this again in time to come. Quick off topic question for Eightpot. Did you buy that Landy from a guy in Rotherham? It looks identical to my work mates old one. Mick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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