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Snorkels - How practical are they ?

I read somewhere - maybe here - that they are usually for keeping the intake away from dust / dirty air.

Are they not for providing a waterproofed air supply - or do only certain models do this ?

There is a guide on here about fitting a snorkel, but it seems to rely on a little foam gasket for a seal - which seems to me like a very weak point if the snorkel is coming out of your wing and liable to catch / snag on things.

If I were to get one when I find my 110/130 - what would I be looking for for a true robust and waterproof snorkel ?

Thanks

Gerry

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Most snorkels need some degree of altering in order to ensure they are water/air tight (wing/body seal is always the weak point). I recently fitted a Mantec snorkel to a TD590 and the wing seal was very poor in my opinion. If you are able to - then make your own.

Les.

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Well they are supposed to be for waterproofing but are also good at keeping dust out of the air intake. Due to the various drain holes etc. in the standard air box you do need to make sure everything is sealed rather than assume it's waterproof. What I look for in a snorkel is a total cost of less than £50 - Stainless exhaust or B&Q drainpipe are ideal candidates ;)

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see here

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=78

Safari can be made 100% waterproof with a little effort - main weakness is not the snorkel (which is inherently waterproof on Safari's 300Tdi Defender version) but the airbox as per the linked thread - see my pics on page 2

Many of the available models are really only suitable for splash protection and dust protection rather than real deep wading. That is, they will work for a quick dip through a river, just don't get stuck in the bottom of it or you may end up with problems.

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I got a fleabay special, made my own rubber gaskets, and sealed with waterproof non-setting mastic and DumDum(I hate silicone, because of problems with removal and painting). As ^^ my air filter box had lots of seam pin holes which needed more sealing than the snorkel.

Don't forget other entry points for water, like the fanny (dump) valve on the air box, and the inline flap valve on standard Tdi air inlet piping.

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If you've got a mushroom top the snow spins out of the top (if you're going fast enough, I have no idea what speed you need for the cyclonic effect to kick in), if you've got a ram point it backwards. Job done. On mine the standard 300tdi inline flap valve (at the lowest point between snorkel and airbox) is left in place but sealed with DumDum, that way if I'm ever worried that there's snow/rain/fog/rains of kippers getting in I can pop the valve open and just stick it back down.

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Rebel 4x4 do a good general purpose snorkel, think I paid about 80 quid? It doesn't have a fitting specific to the side air vent (I used a hole cutter and went straight in through the top of the wing), can be waterproofed easily and has a mushroom top. You just need a bit of flexi hose to connect it to your air box (available from most LR factors for £10/metre). Not as pretty as the safari ones, but tough as boots and waterproof.

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If you have a forward facing intake point it to the inside or back on leafy lanes as well.

My engine nearly stalled when a big leaf sucked onto it and with a few other managed a pretty good seal, I though I had broken something on the engine till I work out were the whisling was coming from!.

If you are driving any lanes down Devon way make sure the snorkel is inside the vehicle line as any that stick out the side or top aren't going to be there very long down most of our lanes, I am sure this applies to other areas as well. Managed to collect 4 snorkel tops down one lane a while ago.

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