Boro Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 I wasnt really expecting this as to date my 1995 disco 3 door has had no welding, i suspected that the sills may need a couple of small plates and knew the boot floor needed replacement but what started out as a couple of small holes has developed into something else, having removed the plastic sill covering from the drivers side i have managed to knock a series of holes in the underside of the outer sill from half way along the door backwards, the sill where it disappears behind the quarter panel doesnt look great either, although its not holed yet it is heavily rusted, the bottom of the b pillar although not holed yet is again heavily rusted, the side of the outer sill covered by the plastic however is unholed with only surface rust around the trim clip holes which when cleaned up are solid, the inner sill has a fair bit of heavy surface rust, some really scabby bits which i havent managed to hole and one bit that i have, so my option is to either plate it up and accept that every so often im going to need to add a patch or to bite the bullet and to replace the inner and outer sills now and know they are done, should i decide to replace the inner and outer sills (probably both sides as i have a feeling the other side will be worse) how do i go about getting in behind the quarter panel to replace the sill, im not so worried about the pillars as i figure i can either slide the sill in behind them or cut the lower sections off which i may need to do anyway to replace rusty metal with good, it looks to me as though the inner sills that yrm metal solutions sell http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/027--ns-innersill-39-p.asp avoid the need to cut the floor which is good and i see theres a chap on ebay selling the outer sills http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Land-Rover-Discovery-RRC-Outer-Sill-Repair-Section_W0QQitemZ320417202740QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item4a9a5a8234&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262 which seem very reasonably priced Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redneck Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 Having just done this job, with help from this ere forum, I suggest fitting box section sills made from 100x60x3 box. The drivers side, where i started, took quite while to do, as I was trying to save the bottoms of the a and b pillars. Once I decided to cut the pillars off etc everything went a lot quicker, just use the box to make the bottom of the pillars. The outer wings unbolt from the b pillar and assorted brackets along the bottom (if they are stiil there, mine were not). I also thought the floor was o.k. until I cut out half of it on each side!!!!!! Also had to fab new seat belt mounts and bottom 6" of the body shell. Out of the 10 body mounts only 2 were structurally sound. Good Luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 The other option is to replace the sills with box section. Not only will this solve the rust problem if properly waxoiled/undersealed etc...but it will also allow you to jack the vehicle up from under the sills as well. There are a few threads in the members vehicle section on how others have done this - i'm sure one of the grown ups who have got the "Discover Sill Replacement" Blue Peter badge will be along with a link before long.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boro Posted September 28, 2009 Author Share Posted September 28, 2009 Whilst im aware of the box section option i would rather go for standard sills if possible, unless it where to make things a lot lot easier which i doubt, pondering the sill where it disappears behind the quarter panel, i was wondering whether it would be possible to access this for welding from inside the vehicle? ie taking the internal trim off to get access, granted i could just fold up a piece of steel and weld it in place and leave the end behind the rear quarter open as the mot man wouldnt see it but then its not done properly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pw8757 Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 If you are going to cut the sills away, I always believe in: Cutting away one side at a time. The other sill, even if corroded, will be providing strength Placing cross struts at the waist of the A-B and B-C pillars, to brace the structure. I agree with your proposal to use standard replacement parts. Have you had the front wings off yet? I hate to be the harbinger of doom, but I suspect you may find a bit of work to do there as well....... Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boro Posted September 28, 2009 Author Share Posted September 28, 2009 Not had the front wings off no but from underneath and the engine bay i can see no holes in the inner wings or floor pans etc, chassis is all nice and solid as far as i have seen so far and i have had a good look over it and been under it working enough times! the areas which are going to need attention are: Sills Boot floor and adjoining areas Around the roof windows, some small holes under the drivers side If it wasnt for the fact i have spent so much on it and that the rest is solid i would probably call it a day and break it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boro Posted September 29, 2009 Author Share Posted September 29, 2009 Nearside sill after removing the trim and having a good poke and scrape, few holes on the underside of the outer sill below the b pillar and one small one to the front right inside the body mounting (behind the a pillar) so a pita to get access to to repair Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boro Posted September 29, 2009 Author Share Posted September 29, 2009 Offside sill, a number of holes to the underside of the outer sill from half way along the door backwards, some rust to the inner sill near the rear but un holed, area towards the front of the inner sill where its holed by that reinforcement piece and as can be seen the aluminium has corroded where the quarter panel meets the sill but as its hidden by the sill trim and not structural i will just refasten that back in place, unless anyone has any better suggestions im just going to clean back the rusty areas of the sills with a wire brush in the grinder and plate up any holes, paint and seal, i know the bases of the b pillars dont look great but they havent holed and are out of site so i will just treat them and leave it at that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pw8757 Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 The good news is that when you have done it, you will know its done properly!! I found holes in a box section that runs from just behind the headlamp to the bulkhead and also in the outsides of the footwells..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redneck Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 TBH plating over the holes is not going to last that long. The sills etc on my disco were rotting from the inside, even the bits that looked o.k from the outside, once I started welding, were paper thin and just blew holes through. Depends on how long you want to keep the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheltie50 Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 When I did much the same job on my RRC I tack welded angle iron to the a,b,and c posts to keep everything in place and did only one side at a time, it worked well and nothing moved, doors off of course, you need to cut the bottom of the b post off to slide the sill in and as said when its done you know what youve got in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco tony Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 I know you dont fancy doing the box section option but in my opinion it is the easiest and cheapest option You will need 1400mm of 120x60 box 3mm thick, its that simple, I promise they will fit a treat, heres how I know! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boro Posted September 30, 2009 Author Share Posted September 30, 2009 Redneck, im not unfamiliar to rust, when i say plating i dont mean lots of little plates, i will let in repairs in the areas affected by rust, the areas which are unholed genuinely are solid, you can tell the difference by sound and feel when hitting it with the rust hammer, yes in an ideal world if i where keeping it indefinitely i would replace the sills now and be done with it but as i need to get the vehicle back on the road asap (need it to do some work) and plating will buy me a few years thats the route i will be going, sorry tony but i dont like the box sills Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 IMHO box section is the way to go. Far easier to position prior to welding, and much stronger afterwards. Also - since you are doing both sides and the boot (and probably other bits you will find along the way) I would suggest taking all seats and carpets out at the start of the job, and it's also a good idea to protect the glass too - some of mine is now covered in tiny weld spatter blobs which are impossible to remove since they have melted into the glass. I didn't think it would be that hot after travelling several feet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 Replacing the full sill is major work and a major pain to do - you have to dismantle half the vehicle to do it properly You have a few options - cut out the rust, clean out and allow the inside to dry, then patch and inject waxoyl. Box section replacement (it's in effect completely sealed and stronger than original) Cut the outer sill right off, repair the rest, replace the 'sill skin', then inject waxoyl. Scary full sill replacement pictures - Les Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boro Posted September 30, 2009 Author Share Posted September 30, 2009 Les have a look at the inner sills that yrm metal solutions sell, unless im mistaken (which i could me) their inner sill could be fitted by drilling of the spot welds where inner sill meets floor pan and the outer sill join and then by undoing the body mount bolts thus leaving the outer sill in position whilst the inner is replaced and not having to touch the floor pan?, still need to decide whether all this is even worth it as ok if the sills where done properly now it would mean they wouldnt need any attention in the near future but im sure that in the next 5 years other areas of the vehicle would need attention and considering that the vehicle was cheap, initially bought to run around and then use as a donor and the fact that the paint isnt great im really not sure i want to go to the effort of replacing entire sills when what is on there could have a few quick patches to keep it on the road Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boro Posted September 30, 2009 Author Share Posted September 30, 2009 why did i carry on looking for rot ergh, i cleaned up the drivers side outer sill with the grinder and was feeling relatively happy that it was a simple plate it job, i then thought oh well i will pull back the quarter and make sure thats all solid etc, do the job properly, the inner quarter panel is available from landrover for not too much cash, assuming its beyond repair, les where did you get the inner and outer sills in the pics you posted up? i fear its going to beyond what my wallet can handle at the moment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 That's the whole sill, which goes part-way across the floor (under the seat). Your first pic doesn't look to bad to do - cut the rot out and a rectangular plate (at least 1.2mm thick) Second pic looks more awkward - the metal where the wood is still looks solid, so weld to that and then down, in, down, and out to the sill lip. Looks like you could pre-form a panel to do it in one piece. Make the repair panel, check the fit, then cut out the rot - leaving a small lip for an overlap. This type of repair is usually good for a few years - there'll be other holes appear elsewhere in time for the next MOT Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boro Posted October 1, 2009 Author Share Posted October 1, 2009 Where did you buy the whole sill from les? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 Sorry - forgot that question The Sills were supplied by Bearmach. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boro Posted September 29, 2011 Author Share Posted September 29, 2011 Spooky that virtually 2 years to the day of me starting this thread here i am adding to it, disco got put to one side until recently, i have removed the interior ready to do the welding and am pleasantly surprised the rest looks good, about to finally order some panels, is it worth paying that little bit extra for genuine landrover panels as with the sills there seems to be three options, britpart, bearmach or genuine, is there a difference in quality, metal thickness and fit or are they all the same panel different badge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted September 29, 2011 Share Posted September 29, 2011 admittedly not for a disco but i bought some britpart dumb irons and outriggers and i was WELL HAPPY with what i got!! seamed good quality and the powderer coating was faultless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 I've never yet seen a decent Britpart panel. Bearmach or Gen in my opinion. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 i forgot to mention, a few hole were slightly out of line but 10 seconds with a drill sorted that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevie D Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 Just done this job on my recently aquired project after selling the 110 csw - I got a few real bargains off ebay £10 for inner and outer sills, worth looking if your not in a hurry, there's a few abandoned projects, Used SPI panels on one side (not sure if they are actually still in buisness - much heavier than the equivalent bearmach one I got for the other side. It's time cosumimg as Les has said you really need the interior stripped to get access and aviod setting fire to it. Not really difficult - takes longer to get the old sils out carefully unpicking spot welds and getting siezed body mount bolts out, than to weld new ones in - buy a good spot weld drill! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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