Eightpot Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 Silly question, but just checking the bores on my isuzu lump which took a bit of a battering thanks to a ever so slight no water incident , and one of the cylinders has been picked up and left visible drag marks down the bore. They are rough to the touch as well, though half a tin of WD40 I sprayed in took a while to leak down. Not sure if that proves anything aother than I have no WD40 left though... pretty resigned to the fact it's goosed, but can a bit of damage be gotten away with? I'll try and get some pics when I can find a blinkin camera.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
velpremus Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 Silly question, but just checking the bores on my isuzu lump which took a bit of a battering thanks to a ever so slight no water incident , and one of the cylinders has been picked up and left visible drag marks down the bore. They are rough to the touch as well, though half a tin of WD40 I sprayed in took a while to leak down. Not sure if that proves anything aother than I have no WD40 left though... pretty resigned to the fact it's goosed, but can a bit of damage be gotten away with? I'll try and get some pics when I can find a blinkin camera.. There is about 600lbs/sqinch acting on the top ring when running - what pressure was the WD40 squrted at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lara Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 Hi there, In practice a small amount of cylinder wall damage can be "got away with" but question your self what the piston will look like if it has done this to your bore! and it will not repair it's self. In my experience it is always better to repair it while you have the chance than have it expire later at some time when you wish it hadn't! In the long run you always end up cussing your self for any corner cutting! I would advise ripping it apart, Bore all cylinders, change the pistons, and change all seals and the crank bearings while you are at it, these things cost so little compared to the work needed to do the job again down the road they are silly "not" to do. Do it once right! and save money and time in the long term. P.S. If you question it enough to ask, you really know the answer already Lara Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 A scored bore will at least cause the engine to smoke excessively. Slightly higher fuel consuption, poor tickover, tugs by the plod, girls giggling as you drive past. Sparrows, bunnies, ramblers dropping dead as they breathe in your exhaust gases Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Attryde Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 ramblers dropping dead as they breathe in your exhaust gases Les. So not all bad then Pete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted September 30, 2009 Author Share Posted September 30, 2009 don't think I've ever killed an engine on the first tank of fuel before! After having another good look at it I don't know how I thought it would ever be ok - looks like it has a corduroy liner Spanners oot! anyone got a nice 300TDi going spare? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landkeeper Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 zuzu lump !!! i'd have thought it'd be easy nuff to pick one of those up cheaply without spending dosh on yer own loads of them in scrap yards here assuming its nothing out of the ordinary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrfarmer Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 don't think I've ever killed an engine on the first tank of fuel before! After having another good look at it I don't know how I thought it would ever be ok - looks like it has a corduroy liner Spanners oot! anyone got a nice 300TDi going spare? well if it helps i've just had a price to rebore a tractor 100quid+ labour so tractor would be more as it's a 4.2lt 4cylinder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted September 30, 2009 Author Share Posted September 30, 2009 well if it helps i've just had a price to rebore a tractor 100quid+ labour so tractor would be more as it's a 4.2lt 4cylinder thanks for the info on that - which would be a good option ordinarily, but the isuzu engines have chrome plated liners, and can't be rebored. A new liner or two could be an option, but my guess is that it would be costly, though I will try a local engine rebuilders to see what they reckon. I did toy with going back to a TDi for a mo, but it would be very costly after the work i've done and would also mean a new gearbox. Not sure I could face dragging the gearbox out as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrfarmer Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 what gear box have you got Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted September 30, 2009 Author Share Posted September 30, 2009 it used to be a V8, and has the 4 speed LT95 gearbox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 Daz, You might find a couple of new liners are not as expensive as you think... worth ringing a few places? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted October 1, 2009 Author Share Posted October 1, 2009 just looked in to that - can get the liners for £40 each, and my local engineers will swap liners over for about £120. Only drawback is they want a bare block to work on. By the time I've factored in a new head set with bolts, engine gasket set and odds and sods it will be more than the cost of a good second hand motor. by the way Matt, I no longer have my mail address or mobile number - just waiting for the firm to cease my broadband and phone line as well so it's all going to go dark soon... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 yeah but your engine will be better than an OK second hand one.... get it done, it's not big money and will be well worth it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted October 1, 2009 Author Share Posted October 1, 2009 I'm sorely tempted to rebuild, but my 'facilities' comprise a small spider filled shed already bursting with broken tat and unfinished projects, and an oil stained drive. Short of comandeering the dining table (request denied) I'm struggling a bit for a clean and clear area to do a strip down. plus there's no way in the world I would be able to reassemble it without putting in new bearings, maybe blueprint the head, port it a bit. maybe have a look at the cam, shame to put an old oil pump back in etc etc we'll see though, I'll have a look through the engine data sheet see how it looks. got some photos of the cylinder damage - might just rub out with some wire wool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 Ouch, I'd at least budget for a new set of pistons as well looking at that Looks to me like the alloy has transferred to the bore quite nicely... but then it is only a picture, hard to tell precisely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrfarmer Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 I'm sorely tempted to rebuild, but my 'facilities' comprise a small spider filled shed already bursting with broken tat and unfinished projects, and an oil stained drive. Short of comandeering the dining table (request denied) I'm struggling a bit for a clean and clear area to do a strip down. plus there's no way in the world I would be able to reassemble it without putting in new bearings, maybe blueprint the head, port it a bit. maybe have a look at the cam, shame to put an old oil pump back in etc etc we'll see though, I'll have a look through the engine data sheet see how it looks. got some photos of the cylinder damage - might just rub out with some wire wool looks just like the one on my tractor but we were quoted £195+vat for one piston. darn old tractors land rovers ones are about £39+vat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonb Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 Similar thing happened on my series 3 years ago. I took the block to a small engineering firm, he used the spring loaded abrasive stones that are used to hone bores for about 5 seconds in each cylinder. All the scuffing removed, set of new pistons and job done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 That looks more like Aluminum debris rather than cylinder damage I'd try a Honing first as simonB has said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted October 3, 2009 Author Share Posted October 3, 2009 The cyliner liners on the isuzu engines are chrome plated - and unfortunately a lot of chrome has flaked off as well. Not sure how well these would repair, if at all and I don't want to chuck good cash after bad. I was seriously considering a rebuild up until I saw the cost of a piston/liner kit - £750! No doubt I could have got the necessary bits for way less than that, but I had a good bit of luck yesterday and managed to pick up a low mileage engine for £350, so jobs a good un. Should be able to flog a few bits of the old engine and have a few useful expedition spares left over as well, so not the worst result in the world. The moral of all this of course, is that a 'bargain' radiator, is not always a bargain radiator.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 The cyliner liners on the isuzu engines are chrome plated - and unfortunately a lot of chrome has flaked off as well. The moral of all this of course, is that a 'bargain' radiator, is not always a bargain radiator.. those pictures look like the early stages of friction welding, it must have got really hot in there... ;o) oh... and it was a bargain radiator.... I think it was the moody plumbing that let you down. ;o) chin-up, at least you've got a replacement engine fairly cheap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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