jmattley Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 Having owned a series 3 petrol and currently driving a 200 disco, I'm thinking that eventually when my disco falls apart I'd like to keep the engine and do a 200 Di conversion in a series 3. Anyone got any experience of doing it and what kind of performance or MPG they get from em? I just loved my series 3, so my plan is to 200Di one, parabolic springs and soundproofing it. I'm also considering using the axles off the disco and welding on leafer mounts to them. Anyone done this at all? Any opinions or suggestions would be lovely too. Cheers everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 Try to keep the turbo in, its a right down gutless diesel engine without it, just had to experiance it today when one intercooler hose blew off, aaarrrrggggghhhhhhh remineded me of the 2.3 days! G Ps look around the forum loads of answers to what you want to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 Try to keep the turbo in, its a right down gutless diesel engine without it, Most engines would be gutless with a bleeding great restrictor in the exhaust, and assuming it would be a SWB series, it'd be a much lighter vehicle as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 Both these questions (200Di and coiler axles) have been covered numerous times before in great detail. FWIW keep the turbo on, there's really no point otherwise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 Have a look at my website (nickslandrover.co.uk) to have a look at how I fitted a 200Tdi to a 109. It drives fantastically well. It also has a lot of sound proofing, improved interior, parabolics, Roverdrive and many other mods and accessories. I have already bought a Discovery front axle and will be buying a 110 Salisbury rear axle from another member on Friday (to be converted to discs). Others on here have already done the mod - Meccano's is one of the neatest I have seen on the net, and a Dutch chap called Koos has shown plenty of photos of his axle conversion here: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26166& Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 As good as anywhere you need to look here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=49087 for the issues relating to the fitting of a 200TDi. I have written everything in you need to know there, or there was another post which i added to as well. As for axles, Im pretty sure it was an article in the Tech Archive of Les Hensons that i read. Having done it myself, I would not like to do it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 Also check out Richar Glencoynes website http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/ He covers the di in detail. The tdi fits a 88" easy, but ideally requires a defender manifold for the 109". Some have managed to avoid it by clever use of engine mounts. The di would be a great engine in a series, just right for gearbox. A di is different from a tdi with a duff turbo, as the turbo restricts the exhaust flow. detail on the di: http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/200di.htm hope this helps. g. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 The di would be a great engine in a series, just right for gearbox. I've heard that excuse before and frankly it's rubbish. You can run a 200TDi perfectly reliably in a Series. I ran a 3.9EFi in mine for years, on & off road, and nothing broke. It's down to your right foot not your choice of engine. I will repeat - removing the turbo from a 200TDi is pointless. Buy an old 2.5NA, sell the TDi, spend the change on counselling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingdong2 Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 I've heard that excuse before and frankly it's rubbish. You can run a 200TDi perfectly reliably in a Series. I ran a 3.9EFi in mine for years, on & off road, and nothing broke. It's down to your right foot not your choice of engine. I will repeat - removing the turbo from a 200TDi is pointless. Buy an old 2.5NA, sell the TDi, spend the change on counselling. as said if you try hard enough with a 2.25 p/d engine in a series you will break something graham _____________________ 1962 2a swb 200 tdi. 1997 disco 1 300 tdi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmattley Posted November 11, 2009 Author Share Posted November 11, 2009 Fair point, may as well Tdi it then in that case, when I get one haha. That or I could just get a 90 and tdi it as it's already soundproofed and more comfortable. I just have a thing with seres landys and it would be a daily drive. Having said that, I did used to drive a petrol series 3 for a year, as a poor 19 year old student!! How many of you lot drive series as daily drives then? Any ideas? As I got a disco for the added comfort and mpg. Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 My 88 is my daily drive, we do miles in her every week - thats why i fitted the TDi in the first place. I do need to try swapping my engine mounts for petrol ones to see if they reduce the vibration a bit. I also need to fit the passenger side door seals, I started fitting new ones a year ago..still havent finished it... I also dont have any soundproofing, as Im awaiting a gearbox chance, so there didnt seem any point fitting it just to take it our again.. If you've got a 109 though, I highly recommend fitting an LT77 from a defender and using either the conversion to use the Series transfer box, or modifying the LT transfer box. Reason being, at 70 on the motorway Im running at close to 3000rpm. Ive got an OD and rangy rear diff, but I could really do with dropping the revs just a bit. Ive been wondering about modifiying my spare transfer box to fit sligtly longer gears on the high ratio, however as the 200TDi is designed for the LT, and for running 3.54 diffs, it makes it a setup as LR designed. An 88 on the other hand, starts to get a little short on space if you use the conversion, unless you seriously modify the front panel (doable) and bring the engine forward. Another option, is to fit the engine mounts from the discovery - just chop them off the scrap chassis and weld them to the Series. I havent seen it done yet, although Im toying with the idea of talking to Richards about doing it for my 109 chassis. This would enable you to use the engine mounts intended for the engine, which presuambly were designed to reduce the vibration more than the old fashioned type, which were still in use to the end of 19J period. If you want some photos of my TDi setup in my 88 then I'll post some up. Its really easy to do, and well worth the effort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 How many of you lot drive series as daily drives then? Any ideas? As I got a disco for the added comfort and mpg. Me. It's the noise that's the problem - it has a resonating panel or assembly somewhere, which I need to identify and secure. I even prefer the character of the controls and handling to my RRC soft dash, though the steering is a bit heavy in car parks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmattley Posted November 12, 2009 Author Share Posted November 12, 2009 What have you done to soundproof your series motor then snagger? Also, best way of lifting aside from parabolics... mil spec hangers and shackles maybe? I'm seriously considering getting another one as theyre just fun and simple and in theory, not that difficult to make comfortable with sound proofing and para springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 I have a Wright Off Road kit (and his matting in the rear) and fully lined engine bay/bonnet using Noise Killer matting. It's still noisier than a 110, but is not normally too bad - something has moved and is resonating, but I'll sort it out soon. I also have parabolics and 1-ton shackles and hangers. The 1-ton system gives a 40mm lift, while parabolics normally give another 50-80mm, depending on type and load. My front parabolics struggle under the weight, so will be getting a third leaf. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 Be careful putting lifts on. I acctually havent noticed any difference in height putting on my paras, except that the rear now sits more level as the nearside spring had started collapsing, but a new standard spring would have done that. If you put longer shackles on, you must also put the wedges in to tip the axle back to the right angle. If you dont, your front diff will tip backwards, and it will throw out the steering angles. Presuembly, fitting paras is a more even lift if they do acctually lift the vehicle, as I never known wedges be fitted with paras. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 I have driven my Series as a commuter a few times. The heater can be a bit weedy in winter and the clutch can get heavy in stop/start traffic. Never found steering an issue. Mind you, now I have an eberspacher and PAS so less of an issue I'd also advise against lots of lift, it brings problems with prop angles. You don't need the clearance for bigger tyres, because you can fit bigger tyres than the Series axles can handle without any lift. Paras will give you more flex off-road and a better ride on-road, but you may encounter spring wrap / axle tramp on 2-leaf springs depending what you're doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 I have driven my Series as a commuter a few times. The heater can be a bit weedy in winter and the clutch can get heavy in stop/start traffic. Never found steering an issue. Mind you, now I have an eberspacher and PAS so less of an issue I'd also advise against lots of lift, it brings problems with prop angles. You don't need the clearance for bigger tyres, because you can fit bigger tyres than the Series axles can handle without any lift. Paras will give you more flex off-road and a better ride on-road, but you may encounter spring wrap / axle tramp on 2-leaf springs depending what you're doing. The heavy steering at low speed is my own fault - as well as after market 7x16 wheels with 235 tyres )which combine to give not only a bigger foot print than 7.so but also a greater track than standard rims, so create much more resistance), I have retained the steering damper and also fitted a Metro steering wheel (which is more comfortable but has less leverage). On the flip side, I fitted a TD5 heater unit and seat heaters. Add the head lining, interior trim and Defender doors and seals (no draughts), and its reasonably warm in winter. I have four leaf TIC at the back (with a 109 ambulance anti-roll bar) and two leaf TICs (to become three leaf when I switch to Defender axles), so tramp is not a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmattley Posted November 13, 2009 Author Share Posted November 13, 2009 Fair enough, more food for thought. How well do the defender doors and headlining fit then? Anyone got any pics of the interiors that are more "comfortable" at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 defender doors will fit but need the correct striker plate on the pillar too. headliner just secures with plastic 'fir tree' fasteners into the ribs on the underside of the roof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 Fair enough, more food for thought. How well do the defender doors and headlining fit then? Anyone got any pics of the interiors that are more "comfortable" at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmattley Posted November 14, 2009 Author Share Posted November 14, 2009 Cheers Snagger, that looks nice, what are canvas tops like for sound and warmth insulation as my hardtop 88 used to be quieter with the top off. Does a softtop make a difference like that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 From what Ihave heard. soft tops are quieter and warmer as long as the top is in good condition. If the top is stretched and loose, it will flap about and make a hell of a racket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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