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New Defender long term rust prevention


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Hi,

I'm taking delivery of my new LRDHT in a couple of weeks. I've ordered 5L of Waxoyl, high-pressure pump (Jeez, wish I'd not sold my compressor!) and an extension tube. I've read the other threads here about general guidelines etc. What I'm looking for is some basic advice where else to spray/inject/paint that will offer long term protection. Having changed many chassis items on a 60's S2A many years I ago, I've a pretty good idea what rots on the chassis and will of course be my focus. Are their any other areas that would also benefit from a dap of this black gold?

Thanks in advance,

John

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I've just installed a 5 yr old TD5 bulkhead and I was shocked to find corrosion where I did. The bulkhead is put together from spot welded pressed steel plate. Some of the seems of the plates where they are doubled up are sealed with a tough plastic bond, other holes have a wax type putty covering them.. this is rubbish. I've found water has crept between the non sealed panels which then corrodes and bulges/swells and pushes the (thin) plate apart... I found this had happend especially on the inner drivers side behind the dash - looks like it was condesation that had caused it. so before wax oiling. I inspected the whole thing and wiped Tiger sealant in all the non sealed joints and plates.

post-20087-127841419916_thumb.jpg

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Galvanisation is the only real long-term solution I feel. If I were to build a Defender with unlimited budget then every steel part possible would be galvanised. So chassis, bulkhead, doors, pillars, etc.

Waxoyl would be my recommendation though, and plenty of it! :)

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I think I'd prefer marine grade stainless where possible.

I'd also recommend Morris Lubricants Ankor wax - not nearly as smelly as Waxoyl, and not black (unless you like the just been swimming in the Gulf look after maintenance) and Bilthamber Dynax. I think you'll need more than 5l too.

Regards

Nigel

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I think I'd prefer marine grade stainless where possible.

I'd also recommend Morris Lubricants Ankor wax - not nearly as smelly as Waxoyl, and not black (unless you like the just been swimming in the Gulf look after maintenance) and Bilthamber Dynax. I think you'll need more than 5l too.

Regards

Nigel

You're right, marine stainless would be great, but it would require re-fabricating parts which could get quite expensive.

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LR wax the latest Puma's less than the 2007 ones. TBH apart from engine, drivetrain and some cockpit and panel differences / materials the vehicles are still very similar to all the earlier Defender models. There's a load of info on the forum already about their weak points corrosion wise and where to spray and squirt Waxoyl and similar products.

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i would love to get the whole of my defender stripped down to the bare chassis and bulhead and have it paint dipped in the stuff they dip the big steel sections used to make shopping centres and office blocks out of. Sort of a light-grey anti rust primer metal paint. Works bloody brilliantly!

The big shopping centre thats in the middle of wakefield got half built (just the steel) and then put on hold when the recession hit. All the exposed beams have this paint on it and its been sat there exposed for over 2 years and there isnt a single speck of rust on them.

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All the doors are already galvanised - frames and skins on new defenders.

Are they really galvanised, or just made of zinc plated steel? I know the latter is a big improvement over a waft over with a cheap primer, but it's not really the former either.

Nigel

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I have a literally shiney post 06 door in my greenhouse. looks like its all been electro plated rather than "hot dipped" looks a lot tidyer that a standard hot dip like LRforever said. - quite a bit lighter than I was expecting it to be actually.

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I have a literally shiney post 06 door in my greenhouse. looks like its all been electro plated rather than "hot dipped" looks a lot tidyer that a standard hot dip like LRforever said. - quite a bit lighter than I was expecting it to be actually.

If you are taking some cuttings off that door, I'll have some when they've grown :D

Nigel

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If you are taking some cuttings off that door, I'll have some when they've grown :D

Nigel

I'll try planting this one, I could make a fortune.... "Genuine land rover doors, 2nd genaration - home grown" hmm on 2nd thoughts, thats maybe what britpart do and look at there rep... ;)

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OK back to the topic. Waxoyl it is, 7.5l to start off with, nice and warm to spray. Got an extension hose to get into chassis members etc. Looks like a disgusting, messy and smelly job. I assume if external chassis surfaces are coated it'll offer more protection but it'll act like a fly paper to dirt and gravel? Do or don't?

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Hi,

I'm on my first Land Rover Defender. I bought it new and had it taken to have the 'before n after' treatment conducted. Expensive but well worth it. The guy removes all of the Land rover gunk, then uses Waxoyl and something else??? All of the cavities are done including the doors. On top of that you get a colour coded underside to boot, something I did not expect. I bought the car in 05 and to this day I can still get under it and wipe it with a sponge and it looks as good as new. All the guy asks is that every 5 years you take it back for a 'sprinkle' with new Waxoyl.

Just in case you are wondering, YES it is used off road and quite often. the vehicle has been through all manner of water including sea water up to and over the bonnet. I've driven through deep snow in the Pyrenees and the Alps. The guys stuff does what it says on the tin. He advertises in most of the landy mags, give him a shout you'll be surprised.

landypc

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