Snagger Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 Hi folks. Does anyone know of any other mounting vibration dampers that can be used on a 200Tdi Defender engine - I'm getting sick of the vibration transmitted to the chassis at idle.. I have been told of Ford Transit mountings with oil filled hollow rubber, but haven't managed to find any details. I was also wondering if any polyurethane bush company has made substitute mountings, as this would seem a very good sales opportunity, given the number of retrofits into Series vehicles and pre-Defender 90s and 110s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 I know they can be a bit harsh, but are you sure your idle isn;t set too low, causing too much vibration, i've never heard of any complaints before, in fact, oine mate has mounted his almost solid, as he kept breaking the mounts....! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chadler Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 See my reply in your other thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 Fit genuine LR rubbers [url=]http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/2870/ANR1808-ENGINE-MOUNTING-RUBBER.html?search=anr1808&page=1ANR1808[/url] no problems on my '89 110 with a 200tdi fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 28, 2011 Author Share Posted January 28, 2011 They are genuine 2.5/Tdi mountings. I have also tried genuine SIII diesel mountings with no improvement. The vibration is fairly significant at idle, but is gone at 900rpm+. I never had any vibration problems with the 12J and had relatively little trouble initially with the Tdi, but the mounting rubbers were twisted because Marsland had fitted the right side chassis bracket 1/2" too far aft. I fixed that without damaging the chassis by removing the rhs engine bracket (2.5/Defender type), welding up the two bolt holes and drilling new ones 1/2" further forward, so the rubbers are all unstressed except for the compression from the engine weight. The distorted rubbers were replaced with new pattern then genuine parts at that point. Since doing that, the idling vibration has been a bit of a problem. The steering column shakes and makes a racket unless the steering wheel has light pressure applied to it (any direction), the gear stick rattles a bit and the sunroof vibrates visibly (estimated vertical movement of 2-3mm). The vibration is also quite apparent through the passenger seat, though the driver's seat is not affected. As soon as the rpm is increased a little (too much to increase the idle screw to that rpm), it all disappears and the vehicle is comparatively civilised for a SIII... I have tried adding a steel plate and RRC front axle vibration damper, and this has helped a little. I spoke to Richard at Glencoyne, and he has a plausible suspicion that the lighter SIII transmission (compared to the mass of the LT77 and LT230) may be the problem, so I'm now wondering about fitting mass dampers to the back of the transmission, much like LR did on the TD5 Defenders. I do think slightly softer engine mounts might help, though - LR did fit bigger, more supple mounts on the Discovery 200 engines and 300Tdi. I'd prefer not to have to cut and weld chassis brackets, given that it's a relatively new galvanised chassis, which is why I'm hoping there is a softer alternative to the Defender rubbers that fits as a direct replacement. I don't have an rpm gauge, so have to estimate the idle rpm, but it seems pretty normal. The engine isn't moving visibly at idle, but the vibration seems to be at some sort of vehicle harmonic frequency. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokydiesel Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 Snagger, I'm of no real help to you, but I've got the same problem. Great conversion except for the windows that wind themselves down while a idle speed I've also used 3 types of mountingrubbers, but with no real difference. Sorry for not helping.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 Snagger, I'm of no real help to you, but I've got the same problem. Great conversion except for the windows that wind themselves down while a idle speed I've also used 3 types of mountingrubbers, but with no real difference. Sorry for not helping.... I wonder if an upper tie-rod would assist? Something damped between the cylinder head and the steering mounting bracket. Like a shock absorber. I'm drawing on washing machine mountings and Austin Mini engines as inspiration. I've had a look on ebay at transit mountings, and they are quite expensive. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Engine-Mounting-Lower-LH-Ford-Transit-/220520827706?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item335810cb3a But they look very substantial. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Briarston Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 Don't Glencoyne offer mounting rubbers to combat this? £20 pair I think they were. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 Don't Glencoyne offer mounting rubbers to combat this? £20 pair I think they were. Here: http://shop.glencoyne4x4.com/engine-mounts-200tdi-series--defender-oem-22-p.asp I'm not sure they are different to OEM - i.e. i dont know that these will cut out vibrations more than the different makes the chaps in this thread have already used. Nice website though - seems to offer OEM parts at decent enough prices. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 24, 2011 Share Posted March 24, 2011 TD & Defender 200Tdi rubber mounts are the same, there's no difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted May 22, 2011 Share Posted May 22, 2011 An old thread, I know, but I'm now facing this problem. I'm wondering if the gearbox mountings are the key to solving this, as the donor disco gearbox only has one gearbox mounting - resting on a big mounting between the gearbox crossmember and the gearbox. I wonder if fitting defender engine mounts to the gearbox would make a difference, I may experiment once I get the darn engine to run properly. G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 22, 2011 Share Posted May 22, 2011 An old thread, I know, but I'm now facing this problem. I'm wondering if the gearbox mountings are the key to solving this, as the donor disco gearbox only has one gearbox mounting - resting on a big mounting between the gearbox crossmember and the gearbox. I wonder if fitting defender engine mounts to the gearbox would make a difference, I may experiment once I get the darn engine to run properly. G. the gearbox mounts are attached to the transfer box, not the main gearbox. maybe you have a rubber mount which has seperated from it's metal plate or the bracket bolts at either side are loose or broken. see page 393 -- NRC9560 superseded by ANR1808 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted May 22, 2011 Share Posted May 22, 2011 the gearbox mounts are attached to the transfer box, not the main gearbox. maybe you have a rubber mount which has seperated from it's metal plate or the bracket bolts at either side are loose or broken. see page 393 -- NRC9560 superseded by ANR1808 Sorry, it was the transfer box part of the gearbox assembly. There was 1 mounting bolted to the gearbox crossmember: and Anyway, What I'm thinking is the gearbox mountings must have an impact on the vibrations, as the gearbox and engine are all the one unit when fitted. G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 22, 2011 Share Posted May 22, 2011 might be worth changing to 90/110 mounts, then both sides of the transmission will be supported Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokydiesel Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 I've just fitted new engine mouting rubbers from Glencoyne 4x4, and they are just great !!!! Not cheap but well worth the money (and much better than what you can buy as "genuine parts"..) No more vibrations on my 90 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 i have just bought a set of ford transit mounting rubbers which i am told make a much better ride. ive looked at mine today whilst adjusting my steering and on 1 the metal plate is seperating from the rubber £20 for 2 off ebay brand new. i will post the results up soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted July 4, 2011 Author Share Posted July 4, 2011 i have just bought a set of ford transit mounting rubbers which i am told make a much better ride. ive looked at mine today whilst adjusting my steering and on 1 the metal plate is seperating from the rubber £20 for 2 off ebay brand new. i will post the results up soon. I have heard the same before now too. Let us know how you get on and please post up the part numbers or details of which year and engine type of Transit they're for - there are loads to choose from and most won't fit. Another similar thread also says that Glencoyne's mounts cure the problem. I spoke to Richard and he says they are the higher of the two quality levels from Bearmach, but both parts are for the same application. He found them to be noticeably softer than everything else he tried. My genuine mounts seem no better than any of the pattern ones, so I'll be giving his a go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 so the mounts arrived and o got to replacing them. as i write i am waiting for the paint to dry on the engine mounting brackets. because the mounting rubbers are quite a bit bigger in diameter it was necessary to modify the passenger side rubber to engine bracket as it is not wuite wide enough, pictures will follow of the modified mount. the actual rubbers i used are these, as so reccomended by a friend who has been doing all sorts of land rover work for much longer than i have been alive, he didnt mention that i would have to modify the bracket which seems strange as he normally tells me this sort of thing if he is telling me about retrofitting parts etc. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TRANSIT-ENGINE-MOUNT-MOUNTING-1986-1991-/290575939966?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43a7acf97e ive spotted these too which are for earlier transits, and by the given dimensions are more or less exactly the same size as the land rover items, but as these werent the reccomended rubbers i chose not to use them. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-TRANSIT-1978-1985-FRONT-ENGINE-MOUNTING-PAIR-QH-/400155139326?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5d2b1adcfe there are other mounts for other ages but again those hadnt been reccomended to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 all fitted and seems alot smoother. a fair bit of fettling was involved in getting everything to work. (edited: MOUNTS FITTED TO A 200TDI CONVERTED SERIES 3, 90/110etc may be easier/harder to fit them.) the passenger mounting rubber needed an edge skimming off on the bottom plate and some holes needed "lengthening" you need to jack up the engine as high as it will possibly go i fitted the passenger side first to see if the mount i modified would fit properly, the problem i had here was that the mounting plate on the chassis wasnt big enough for the rubber to fit flush, this is where i had to skim the edge to a straight edge (no pictures of this as my phone went flat) approx 6 or 7 mm was skimmed off at the thickest part of the skim if that makes any sense at all... bolting the mount back to the engine you need to loosely hold the rubber in its hole whilst using your third arm to do up the top engine bolt until the threads have gripped then wriggle everything about till the rubber lines up with the hole on the chassis plate when i lined it up it stayed in the right place tighten up the top engine bolt using open end of spanneras the rubber is much bigger and a ratchet spanner will not fit neither will a ring end. then put in and tighten the bottom boltmoving to the other side: this side is more simple, my propshaft was already off so access was much easier, i unbolted the mounting plates from the engine and chassis outriggery thing i then bolted the new rubber to the small bracket that bolts to the chassis which "reshaped itself" as i tightened it down, i had to sandwich one of its fixing bolts between the bracket and the rubber as the rubber covers its hole so i couldnt put the bolt through after. (ideally i would have remade this plate) All the holes in this bracket need elongating, and so do the chassis holes then the i reattached the engine mounting plate, loosely holding the rubber and the chassis bracket on it, then the bracket needs levering into place with a screwdriver or pry bar the sandwiched bolt will then slot into its elongated hole on the chassis but will not go all the way down put in the other bracket to chassis bolt whatever nuts you can get on, get on now. slowly lower the engine, tighten up the nuts and check all engine mount/rubber/chassis bolts that you have disturbed.i would reccomend to do this if youre changing an engine, as you have much more movement and space, or if youre rebuilding a land roverit was a bit of a PITA to do especially the rubber securing bolt under the fuel pump!!it was helpful to have wobbly ratchet extensions, spanners with socketey ends which swivel, and an old 17mm spanner bent to access the nut under the fuel pumpand a telescopic retreiving claw device for when you drop things.not many piccys to follow when phone is charged Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 here are pictures showing the passenger side bracket, and how i needed to modify it to fit the bigger mount rubber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 and the welding is much better than it looks on here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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