need4speed Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 I will be rebuilding my LT230 soon. Im gathering together all the info i can before i start and have a good study. Few questions though. 1. Can someone give me a link to the LT230 Rebuild Manual? Ive tried 1 link that i found but the link isnt working. 2. Are there any parts i would be better replacing over and above what Ashcrofts provide in their master rebuild kit? 3. When i get to the stage where i have a large pile of parts on my workbench, would i be better getting the case sleeved where the intermediate shaft exits the case in order to prevent future leaks in that area? 4. Any other potential banana skins i need to watch out for? Thanks Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Here is the manual that i have. Hope its some help. I think all boxes should be sleeved now, especially having read some of the problems some have experienced on here and the age of some of the boxes. LT230T_Transfer_Box_Overhaul_Manual.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voevod Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 wow,that's a lot of money...I was going to say don't forget the collapsible spacer tube,but it's in the kit.Out of interest,can you fit a cross-drilled input gear into any t/box,assuming it has 26 teeth?If so,I'd be spending an extra few quid getting one while ye have it's guts oot on your workbench Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 Thanks for the manual Reb. Helps a lot. I didnt think it was a lot of money for the kit. So long as it includes quality bearings ie timken etc. Cross-drilled input gear eh? What are the benefits of that then? Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Allows lubrication of the splines on the gearbox output shaft. Known weak point of the setup, I think the cross-drilled gears came in during the reign of the 300Tdi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 I have another one too, but the torque settings seem all over the show compared to those in the manual above and my workshop manual, so i dont tend to give it out - if you think anythings missing in the manual above, give me a shout and i'll post the other one up too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 Retro - maybe my box has one already. How will i tell? Reb - no worries mate. I'll give you a shout if i need more info. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 The gear will have a hole through it I'm afraid I don't know more than that, there will likely be other differences that others (or Ashcrofts) could help you with. You can probably tell from the serial no. if you have the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 Yes James - very funny I'll give Dave at Ashcrofts a call when i get the serial number tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Retro - maybe my box has one already. How will i tell? When you remove the PTO cover and bearing carrier, you can withdraw the inout gear. It'll be obvious if the shaft is drilled to allow oil to get to the input shaft from the gearbox. The splines really suffered on vehicles with older transfer boxes without this modification. I dont know of any other way of telling other than looking at the gear to double check. Look at the pic of the gear here: http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=8 This is cross drilled. If ot isnt, the holes in the middle of the shaft will be missing effectiley decreasing lubrication of the gearbox shaft it engages with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 Ah thats the stuff Reb! I'll keep a lookout for that when i get to stripping it in the next few days. So if mine hasnt got the cross-drilled gear, i need to look closely for additional wear elsewhere? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Yep, on the splines inside it, and on the gearbox output shaft splines. On a crossdrilled input gear the internal splines are longer too.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voevod Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 a worthy addition for the extra money if you're taking the box out anyway need4speed.I have a feeling the gear with the longer spines may be to marry up to an R380 g/box,but may be wrong.Ashcrofts will definitely be able to help you if you have the t/box id handy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 When i removed the transfer box on mine, the splines were so worn, i bit the bullet and replaced the main box too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voevod Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 I had much the same problem,although I was fortunate enough to know someone that had a fairly low mileage disco1 engine,g/box and 1.22 t/box for a car booty price,so I swapped the lot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 Reading through the transferbox overhaul manual im wondering what steps i need to follow, and what steps to disregard. For example, if you scroll down to page 37 where its describing the steps involved in stripping down the front output housing, step 23 states that you should remove the differential bearing track from the housing and discard it. However Ashcrofts master rebuild kit does not include this track so id be ill-advised to bin it. How many steps in the manual should i ignore? I dont want to strip it down too far and find that i dont have adequate parts supplied in the rebuild kit... Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 there's a good LT230 rebuild thread in our tech archive right here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted March 17, 2011 Author Share Posted March 17, 2011 Ok. Finally got to stripping it. Bad news i think. On removal of the intermediate shaft i have noticed wear. It looks like the bearings have nipped up and rotated on the shaft itself. You can feel the marks left with your fingernail. The shaft is obviously fubar. My dad said that in his engineering days companies used to spray-weld a worn shaft and then remachine to size. Is this a viable option? Im loathed to buy another second-hand transferbox as it could turn out to be exactly the same. Im not stripping the box down any further until i find out if its worth saving or not. Thoughts / opinions please? Edit: Just noticed that genuine new ones are £80. Just need to splash out. For some reason i thought that they were about £200 Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashtrans Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 For example, if you scroll down to page 37 where its describing the steps involved in stripping down the front output housing, step 23 states that you should remove the differential bearing track from the housing and discard it. However Ashcrofts master rebuild kit does not include this track so id be ill-advised to bin it. Phil Hi Phil, this is in the kit, all 6 inner and outer taper roller bearings and the 2 flange bearings are included, Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted March 22, 2011 Author Share Posted March 22, 2011 Thanks Dave. Thats reassuring. Ive noticed that on the website, you mention checking the diff before continuing with rebuild. How exactly do i check the diff now that i have the box completely stripped? Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted March 22, 2011 Author Share Posted March 22, 2011 How exactly do i check the diff now that i have the box completely stripped? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.