Mark Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 My TD5 110 has a fairly worn Salisbury Diff in the rear axle after 150k+ miles, so I am considering either finding a better one to swap in, or getting this one reconditioned. However, I have read/heard that physically removing the salisbury from the casing is something of an undertaking, and not as simple as a standard rover diff... Could someone in the know make any suggestions as to where the issues are or if there are any specific tools of techniques involved. Bear in mind, I have changed more rover diffs than I care to remember, but have hardly even looked at a salisbury... Cheers Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 Many moons ago Andy M (RedIbex) did a decent guide to swapping salisburies, they do require a bit more effort than Rovers but none of it is rocket surgery. As ever, all those who've never done it will tell you it can't be done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 Don't even think about it. I've done three in the workshop with the correct tools. I promised myself I would never do another one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrKev Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 Don't even think about it. I've done three in the workshop with the correct tools. I promised myself I would never do another one. Hmm, now if I know Mark at all, I'll wager that as soon as he reads that sentence, he'll immediately start sketching axle stretchers or whatever the damned things are on the back of a napkin / shoebox / business card.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 Actually... I was looking for complete axles on eBlag.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 I might be wrong but I vaguely remember Andy m saying you could "tickle" the flange (ooh good word) to help get them out but I think it didn't leave much for the gasket. Please don't quote me on any of this mind. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 Mike I understand that you can use a rag between the crownwheel and pinion. Good that's done. How do you put it back ?????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off Road Toad Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 Salisbury's are not rocket science at all. The key ingredient is a spreader tool of some kind. If you don't have access to one - improvise, a high lift jack with the clamp on the end works well (if the axles off the truck). If you use the high lift method, use it to sqaush the axle casing top to bottom rather than spread side to side (it has the same effect) BUT be very careful as you can spread too far and the tube won't come back as it should. Quite often you will find wear behind the side bearings where they have been spinning on their races, this wear is bad news as it is in the axle casing not on the diff which = scrap. The ball ache with salisburys is in setting the backlash between crown wheel and pinion as rather than using adjuster nuts like the standard rover diff, it relies on the pressure of the stretchy axle casing so you have to keep taking the diff in and out many times if you seek perfection. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 So, by the sound of it, once you had the diff on the bench, simply swapping a less worn one into the same casing is unlikely to yield a good result anyway... Hmmm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 Might be easier to find a decent Salisbury (drum or disk, as long as it's coil-sprung they're all the same fitment-wise) and swapping your bits over. That's what I did when my 110's rear diff blew up (pinion bearing went), got a good drum-braked axle and swapped over my stubs, hubs, calipers, brackets and half-shafts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zim Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 So, by the sound of it, once you had the diff on the bench, simply swapping a less worn one into the same casing is unlikely to yield a good result anyway... Hmmm so that'll be the axle on the bench then huh we've stripped a few salisburys that haven't needed the spreader just come straight out G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 I've done a few Dana xx axles which are very similar, with no issues, aside from needing a couple of long lever bars to pull the crownwheel assembly out, and a ferking big hammer to get the pinion out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 Salisbury's are not rocket science at all. The key ingredient is a spreader tool of some kind. If you don't have access to one - improvise, a high lift jack with the clamp on the end works well (if the axles off the truck). If you use the high lift method, use it to sqaush the axle casing top to bottom rather than spread side to side (it has the same effect) BUT be very careful as you can spread too far and the tube won't come back as it should. Quite often you will find wear behind the side bearings where they have been spinning on their races, this wear is bad news as it is in the axle casing not on the diff which = scrap. The ball ache with salisburys is in setting the backlash between crown wheel and pinion as rather than using adjuster nuts like the standard rover diff, it relies on the pressure of the stretchy axle casing so you have to keep taking the diff in and out many times if you seek perfection. Steve Exactly Steve. Also loosing the bit of paper with your calculations on..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 To do anything on a Salisbury you need a proper spreader. Over-do this and you will permanently upbugger the axle-casing. Setting the crownwheel/pinion mesh also requires a knowledge of how to use "Engineer's blue". Then there's the issue of the collapsible spacer and fun with spring-balances needed to set the pinion-preload (you will be replacing the pinion and the pinion-shaft bearings as part of any swap, won't you?) I've got rather a lot of experience of Salisbury axles - as used by numerous 1960s Jaguars, Gordon-Keebles, Aston-Martins, Reliant Scimitars - and industrial dump-trucks! Have a look at http://www.winget.co.uk/document/SERVICE%20%20MANUAL%20SALISBURY%205HA%20AXLES.pdf for some good guidance. [if you're in the mood, consider fitting a Pow-R-Lok LSD - but remember that then you need to use appropriate friction-modified oil or the 'wavy plates' will have a short and unhappy life] --Tanuki. "Today's forecast is: moderate to heavy patches of Frogs and a sunny outlook, but with a belt of inflatable pink vibrating Lizards moving in from the west as the weekend comes to an end, followed by a visit to the psychiatrist for better drugs sometime Tuesday" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 I *think* you can replace the pinion crush spacer with shims as per the yank version, whether that makes life any easier or not I'm not sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 Not an exactly cheap option... but... My link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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