M&S Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 Hi all, where would the cheapest place to buy POR-15 be, preferably in the North East or on-line if delivery isn't to bad. Our motorfactors don't have it Also, how many litres do you think for a series 3 chassis and bulkhead? Cheers, Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 AFAIK Frosts are the only place selling it - I may be wrong, but they certainly used to be. Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted April 30, 2011 Share Posted April 30, 2011 Save your money and dont buy any its ****e and peels off in great sheets! Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedro Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 Save your money and dont buy any its ****e and peels off in great sheets! Jon My chassis paint looks like new still, used the POR 15 treatment. Follow the instructions carefully. I used mordaunt solution liberally before, metal ready etc. Touched up a few areas after chassis swap with waxoil. Overall, impressed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hiatt Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 Have a look on the Holden website, there is a tutorial. They sell it too, of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M&S Posted May 2, 2011 Author Share Posted May 2, 2011 Cheers all. Must say Jon, I've not heard any bad stuff about it from my reading, but it is expensive stuff so I'd be very angry if it wasn't any good. I'll get a small tin and try it to start with. Thanks, Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
q-rover Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 It's all in the preparation, POR 15 is quite fussy about having a good key. Don't do anything that may 'polish' the metal clean, but keep it quite rough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M&S Posted May 2, 2011 Author Share Posted May 2, 2011 It's all in the preparation, POR 15 is quite fussy about having a good key. Don't do anything that may 'polish' the metal clean, but keep it quite rough. That's why I was looking towards POR-15, the chassis has been wire brushed but is still pitted, I think it should be a great key for the paint (as recommended) and will also save LOADS more wire brushing and sanding! No point spoending all of that money on paint to do a job if I'm going to spend MORE time prepping to then ruin it for the paint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sirocco Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 Did you get around to this in the end Martin? Im looking at Por 15 also for my Tdi 90, need to get a shift on as summer is passing by quite fast! G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 DON'T use it, water gets under and it comes off in sheets, White90 ex admin here used it and posted about it - his view was he wished he had never ever used the stuff Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M&S Posted July 6, 2011 Author Share Posted July 6, 2011 No, I finally went to Toolstation and bought their rust convertor for £20 a litre.  For low wear areas this is enough on its own.  For high wear areas such as axle casings I'll be adding a coat of the cheapest black metal paint.  <br><br>My use of it so far is, in my opinion, perfect, and saved me a fortune! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon W Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 Well I have first hand experience of the stuff, not my mothers brothers uncles sister used it once upon a time. If it is a rusty area then it works a treat, stick like s*** to a blanket, but on good metal yes it may peel off if the surface is smooth and not keyed properly. Can't remember where I got it from last time I used it. Just make sure the chassis is cleaned down well and degreased. My 90's chassis certainly hasn't been in any worse condition for it. It does state on the tin that you should put a top coat of chassis black over it so it doesn't degrade from UV rays or something like that. Cheers Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M&S Posted July 6, 2011 Author Share Posted July 6, 2011 Personally I think that by the time you've used their primer (or key), the POR-15, and then chassis black you've spent an awful lot of money... The stuff I used in the pics above acts as a rust convertor and a primer, and it paints over nicely with whatever pait you like (chassis black if you want). POR-15 might be great stuff but it was just too expensive for me to consider in the end. And I don't think that my method is a compromise either (before all of teh "you get what you pay for" gang come along"). You can buy a small tin for £5, give it a go and see what you think. I bet when you see how easily it goes on and the finish it gives you'll be back for a bigger tin! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sirocco Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 How about the chassis of a 1996 Defender 90 that has never seen a drop of waxoil or the hot end of a MIG torch? Its got no heavy rust, but it is getting speckly with the surface stuff. A rub down, degreaser, Por15s metal ready and then the good stuff on top. After that I will just use some standard chassis black topcoat. From what I have read, more people have had good than bad results so I think it will be worth it. Its a big task that I only want to do once (well for the next 5 years at least!) I just need to find a cheaper degreaser as the Por Marine one is a little pricey. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 Rustoliem Rust Primer, then a Tractor paint Black top coat and waxoil the insides Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 How about the chassis of a 1996 Defender 90 that has never seen a drop of waxoil or the hot end of a MIG torch? Its got no heavy rust, but it is getting speckly with the surface stuff. A rub down, degreaser, Por15s metal ready and then the good stuff on top. After that I will just use some standard chassis black topcoat. From what I have read, more people have had good than bad results so I think it will be worth it. Its a big task that I only want to do once (well for the next 5 years at least!) I just need to find a cheaper degreaser as the Por Marine one is a little pricey. G And park it in a lake of waxoil or dinitrol as the inside of the chassis is probably where the problems lie.Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sirocco Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 And park it in a lake of waxoil or dinitrol as the inside of the chassis is probably where the problems lie.Nigel I know Nige, I was going to get some up inside there also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 How about the chassis of a 1996 Defender 90 that has never seen a drop of waxoil or the hot end of a MIG torch? Its got no heavy rust, but it is getting speckly with the surface stuff. A rub down, degreaser, Por15s metal ready and then the good stuff on top. After that I will just use some standard chassis black topcoat. From what I have read, more people have had good than bad results so I think it will be worth it. Its a big task that I only want to do once (well for the next 5 years at least!) I just need to find a cheaper degreaser as the Por Marine one is a little pricey. G About the worst thing you could do - POR15 sticks to rust metal but not clean painted - it will come off in sheets Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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