reb78 Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 As above really - which do you prefer and why? Would you re-build an existing caliper or just replace it with new? What reasons would cause you not to re-build what is there with new pistons and seals? When replacing a caliper, do you always do new pads and discs (both sides) at the same time. I presume the discs will be ok, but i ought to change the pads? I presume i can just do one caliper and that these dont have to be replaced in pairs? Where have you guys found the most reasonably priced well made stuff? I've spent most of the last two evenings trying to replace the 'wiper seal' on the front caliper on my 110. I've managed to mash all four retaining rings in the kit my local place sold me in doing this. Could be because it was Britpart stuff perhaps?? I didnt argue about the make because it was supposed to be a temporary measure until i rebuilt or replaced the caliper as there was some corrosion on the outer edge of the pistons. Anyway - the corroded part of the piston has been pushed in past the fluid seal a few times now and that appears to be weeping slightly, so i think i'll need to replace/rebuild the caliper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frax Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 I blasted my callipers with the old seal in to keep the grit out then painted them. Stripped them down and fitted stainless steel pistons and seals. I also had a pig of a job with the retaining rings but found out later that it helps to fit them upsides down before fitting the pistons as this helps them get into shape. Fitting disks is also a bit of a pig so if you don’t need them don’t bother. As for pads I always change them on both sides at the same time so you know when they ware that both side will need done, I do keep the old pads if they are in good nick just in case you get a piston sticking and uneven ware. You can always use an old pad to get you by. Frax Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted May 6, 2011 Author Share Posted May 6, 2011 Thanks. I was thinking of rebuilding the current one because of the price of the new ones (genuine seem to be ~£350!) and the dubious quality of others... I'll use genuine seals. Its a shame that my local place sell so much Britpart, the place is really convinient, but always make me feel like i'm being a pain when i ask them for genuine parts or anything other than Britpart! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 I bought an OEM, properly branded calliper from my local place. No idea off the top of my head how much it was... but two would have been nowhere near £350! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 £245 for AP Lock from Mailorder 4x4 when i got them. Oh just checked the pattern ones are now £268 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Jenkins Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 I got a pair of calipers refurbed by Bigg Red in Worcester. Was about £90 I think. I was pleased with the results. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddyWinny Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 I have recently rebuilt the rear calipers for the rear axle from a late 200tdi Discovery (now fitted to my 90). The reason for rebuilding was inspiration from various threads on this forum where a grubby caliper had been nicely restored (my ones were pretty grubby and the pistons were rusty). I rebuilt them by cleaning the body with the original pison, seals and a short length of brake pipe in place. I then removed the pipe, piston and seals, cleaned the inside and fitted new pistons and seals (I can't remember the make of the kit though but can find out if you are interested - I think I bought it from e-bay). I didn't need to split the calipers in half although that did make getting the old pistons that were a bit stuck harder to remove. I also twisted and mashed a wiper seal metal retainer ring on the first attempt where I simply tried to press it in bit by bit. What worked for me was to obtain a think plate of metal big enough to cover the new piston and wiper seal retaining ring and use that to press the ring in evenly. So, 1. Lubricate and fit main seal 2. Fit piston but do not insert fully 3. Fit wiper seal to ring, libricate (all over the seal and ring) and slide over piston assembly 4. Place the metal plate over the pistom and wiper seal ring - keeping as square as possible. 5. Use a G-Clamp, pushing on the plate and caliper body to press the piston and wiper seal/ring fully home. This woked everytime for me. Two calipers rebuild for the price of 4 stainless pistons, a seal kit and some high temperature paint. The plate of metal I used was the back of a brake pad with the friction material chipped off and the sides ground down to give a little more clearence in the caliper body. Since I mention this I feel obliged to say please careful removing the old friction material; it is not something you want to be breathing in! Let me know if I can be of any more help. MW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02jcole Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 A few pictures of the caliper I rebuilt for my 1997 defender 90, sorry about the colour...... Ready for Blasting Finished Finished James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted May 6, 2011 Author Share Posted May 6, 2011 Thanks all. Been out there again tonight fiddling with the last reasonable retainer. An hour later that was buggered as well - thats about 6 hours spent on one retainer ring! It was only supposed to tide me over till i could re-build the thing. I think i'm going to spend some money and re-build the hubs, brakes and swivels on both sides. There is a bit of wear in places on both sides (nothing serious, but it'll need doing at some point anyway swivel seals/chrome corrosion and now the damn brake caliper with rusty pistons). I figure strip both sides this weekend, get new bits in the week and re-fit next weekend - i'm fed up messing around for hours with little bits!! Mike, Bigg Red looks like a good compromise. How was the quality of the re-con? Have they lasted well? I would do it myself, but for £90 for both and no hassle with the damn retainer rings that seenms reasonable. I've seen genuine seal and piston kits for £30 each and as i'd need two to do both sides, £60 compared to £90 for someone else to do it doesnt seem too bad! Hopefully i'll have a set that look like 02jcoles then! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B reg 90 Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 Only buy genuine seals - the metal rings are far better quality. Don't split the caliper. Use compressed air to blow out one piston at a time (Use safety glasses) - I have three of 3mm thick by 20mm wide flat bar bent into 'C' sections that I use to stop the other pistons coming out. Use a tyre valve from a non tube tyre to get the air into the caliper - trim the end of the tyre valve to cone so that when you push/hold into the caliper inlet it seals - put your foot pump/ air line onto the inlet of the tyre valve. If you don't have an air compressor you can manage this with a foot pump. Pop metal ring in seat. Put a piece of 3mm plate/sheet metal over the top and a 24mm socket (depends on the height of your sockets) on top. Use a tyre lever to 'lever' down the socket and hence the metal ring into place. End result all 4 calipers overhauled in one evening, all metal rings fitted first time, none damaged. Easy..... Adrian P.s. If you shot blast you caliper then tape up the end of the bleed nipple, other wise shot sits in the nipple, when you remove it the shot falls in to the caliper.... f@@king anyoying at the end of a sucessful night Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 What helps in fitting the seal retainers is to thoroughly scrape out all traces of dirt and rust from their seats - the slightest surface rust in the seat catches the lip of the retainer and causes it to buckle. As for why I'd rather refurbish original callipers than replace them is that new callipers would also have rusty pistons in 5-10 years, needing replacement again and because good quality replacements cost much more than doing the job properly with high quality stainless pistons, avoiding the issue for a much longer period, and because pattern parts are so notorious for failure or faults, and you just can't take that chance on something as safety critical as brakes. It also means you don't have to worry about someone screwing up and sending you the wrong spec parts. Of course, the callipers need to be in good enough condition to be worth refurbishing - if the bores are damaged or the exterior rust is so thick that the callipers' structural strength is affected, then you don't have much choice. I have done a set of plain early Discovery callipers and a set of ABS/ETC late RRC callipers, all with Zeus pistons, and the results are excellent. In the former case, I fitted new OEM discs and pads, but in the latter I reused the existing EBC pads and discs - there is no trouble doing that as long as the discs and pads are put back in the same positions and are cleaned thoroughly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted May 8, 2011 Author Share Posted May 8, 2011 Well, the curse of Britpart strikes again!! Got a genuine seal kit and everything immediately had a better quality look and feel. 10 minutes fiddling with the retainer ring and it was clipped into place. Will keep the remainder of the genuine kit as a spare and get two more to rebuild the calipers fully as you guys have kindly advised. The britpart retainer rings were flared outward at the edges. The genuine parts had a much straighter better formed edge, hence the lack of a problem fitting them! My local land rover garage swears that britpart are good ('wouldnt sell them if they werent any good'). They seem to get offended when i ask for something else. Its frustrating because they are convinient and only a few miles away, but because fo the convinience, i took a chance. The next nearest place is 15 miles, but it looks like i'll have to go there more often instead as they seem to have no problems supplying whatever make of part i ask for. To make matters worse, i was sold the genuine kit for 2/3 the price of the britpart rubbish! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 Well, the curse of Britpart strikes again!! Got a genuine seal kit and everything immediately had a better quality look and feel. 10 minutes fiddling with the retainer ring and it was clipped into place. <snip> My local land rover garage swears that britpart are good ('wouldnt sell them if they werent any good'). <snip> You should go to your Bripart dealer with the actual evidence you now have, as to why Britpart quality is substandard. I personally would never let a bripart part near any part of the braking system, or any other safety critial component. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted May 9, 2011 Author Share Posted May 9, 2011 You should go to your Bripart dealer with the actual evidence you now have, as to why Britpart quality is substandard. I personally would never let a bripart part near any part of the braking system, or any other safety critial component. I will. I only used these parts, as it was not the fluid seal i needed, just the wiper seal. I've learnt my lesson! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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