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TD5 Bulkhead


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to answer the above questions, my 1989 110 was originally a 2.5TD/LT77 combination, about 10 years ago, it became a 200Tdi/LT77 for about 1 year then I replaced the ageing LT77 with a R380 so now I have -----

1. a factory standard rear [mid] mounted 200Tdi engine on the orginal 2.5TD mounts

2. a short bell housing [it's 11cm overall length] [iIRC the orignal LT77 part FRC9865]

3. the original built 'wide saddle' bulkhead

4.the original LT77 gearbox tunnel -- as far as I'm aware.

hope that helps :i-m_so_happy:

Edd & Ralph, thats great. The pic is of what i would call the wide-saddle. Its the standard LT77 fitment. Clearly for the 300tdi era, land rover just used a bolted-in plate to reduce the saddle dimentions down to the R380 fitment, and then for the Td5 era it became an integral part of the pressing.

Ralph, that confirms all of my suspicions about how things differ, hopfully this thread is useful for anyone wondering about what will fit what.

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Chadler - Hayling Trailers (Hayling Island funny enough) take stuff in for galvanising, they send it out to another firm, had several lots done by them. They are listed in Portsmouth yellow pages. Or look up galvanising in ur local copy...

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  • 3 weeks later...
Chadler - Hayling Trailers (Hayling Island funny enough) take stuff in for galvanising, they send it out to another firm, had several lots done by them. They are listed in Portsmouth yellow pages. Or look up galvanising in ur local copy...

I have bought one of said 300tdi bulkheads (AHR710460) and plan to do exactly the same job as described. The major difference is as rightly pointed out the gearbox tunnel.

When I look at mine though it has a sticker saying it has been electro something or other treated - like many of the LR panels these days it is the silk black look. Instead of subjecting the whole new bulkhead to the galvanising process - which based on a friends experience not only can cause some distortion of panels, but also means its hard to paint afterwards - I think you have to use urea (basically pee on it !!) or something (im sure somebody more informed than me can advise!). Why dont you just get a gallon of waxoyl (sorry 5L) and get it so you can poor it into the insides of the bulkhead or inject spray it as usual and - then spray it as usual?

Mine is a 1990, and it has just had its normal top quarters welded - 17 years after first registration - do you really think you will have the same LR in 17 years time - if not - why spend the money on galvanising - you could buy yourself a new matting system and sell yoru old one to one of us :D

Also, just gone and looked at mine and it has the lip for mounting the tunnel to as an integral moulding on the bulkhead as opposed to a bolt on plate (so yes there must be three different types), so my plan was to remove the lip, cut the bulkhead gearbox apperture to the same dimensions as old bulkhead and drill holes so I could mount my lt77 plate on the new bulkhead - which as I write this seems a fairly simple process ;) (I know!)

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Mine is a 1990, and it has just had its normal top quarters welded - 17 years after first registration - do you really think you will have the same LR in 17 years time - if not - why spend the money on galvanising - you could buy yourself a new matting system and sell yoru old one to one of us :D

You could apply that same rationale to the fitting of galvanised chassis, body cappings, door frames and indeed any better-than-OE part. The fact is that when i do a job i endeavour to do it to the highest possible standard, and i don't like the idea of rebuilding a vehicle onto a new chassis with a new bulkhead and know that as it sits, the footwells are only 1mm worth of paint away from starting to degrade again...

I was offered an already galvanised-Td5 bulkhead, hence the enquiry, and just followed the thought process through to what would fit what.

I agree that filling the bulkhead with waxoyl would be a perfectly good factory-new alternative, but it doesn't protect the footwells, and it is a less scientifically-neat way of trying to achieve the same end, to a lower standard.

and no you can't have my soundproofing mat!

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Just anothe tip (Probably obvious)...

When you are rebuilding everything, fit the door before you tighten everything else in place!!

I couldnt as my doors were still as the coachworks being painted... what a pain it was refitting them!!

Other than that, a TD5 bulkhead can (with a little minor modification with a jigsaw) fit onto a 200Tdi.

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Well this is all encouraging stuff. Would seems I could fit a later 300 or even TD5 b/head to my 200 with at worst minor trimming of the bellhousing surround.

Are there any other gotcha's though? Like position of vent flap hinges, dash mounting (td5 has different internal panels IIRC),...?

Like Chadler if I do this I'd like to go the galv route and would be pretty peaved if I did this only to find it needs further cuts/welds.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Great advise regarding the bulkhead change. My F-Reg 90 has got to have a bulkhead, Bought as an ongoing project with the 200TDI change done. Badly welded n/s outriger, series 3 o/s outriger, body filler in holes in rear crossmember, sylicon filler across the top of the bulkhead, o/s top hinge & bulkhead detached through rust. Most sane people would run away from this !!. With only 74000 miles on the clock and cheap, welding done for free I think it justifies a new bulkhead. If I waxoil my new one and it last as long as the old one why pay more for galvanising Any more pictures would be helpfull. P.S this pased its MOT last May,

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  • 5 weeks later...

OK, dragging this back to the top but I now have a nice new TD5 bulkhead to play with :D

Chadler did you get yours?

This one will need things like wiper mount cutting off but it is a wide saddle type and looks like my lt77 panels will bolt right up to it. Maybe there is more than one type of TD5 bulkhead?

Don't want the 90 off the road but will start stripping any unnecessary bits of so I can do my best to compare them. Anyone near Pompey got an old gash early 90 bulkhead they want rid of that I could use to aid this fettling before galv?

And has anyone successfuly (or not) galved a bulkhead?

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OK, dragging this back to the top but I now have a nice new TD5 bulkhead to play with :D

Chadler did you get yours?

This one will need things like wiper mount cutting off but it is a wide saddle type and looks like my lt77 panels will bolt right up to it. Maybe there is more than one type of TD5 bulkhead?

Don't want the 90 off the road but will start stripping any unnecessary bits of so I can do my best to compare them. Anyone near Pompey got an old gash early 90 bulkhead they want rid of that I could use to aid this fettling before galv?

And has anyone successfuly (or not) galved a bulkhead?

You can galvy a 90 bulkhead, seen it here many times and plan to do the same myself in the next year. The important thing is not to let the shop quench the metal in a bath after being in the galvy dunk tank. It has to air dry. Otherwise, the thin metal of the bulkhead will warp from the rapid change in temps.

So does a td5 bulkhead match up to a v8 bulkhead with auto? :huh: That's my big question...

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Can't answer that one but if you have the panels to take a wide saddle b/head it could well be an option. Hope to take osme pics as this proresses (slowly).

Edited;

There does seem to be two variants (at least) of the TD5 bulkhead.

Narrow saddle:

post-9-1161190995_thumb.jpg

courtesy of Craddocks

And wide saddle

post-9-1161191016_thumb.jpg

courtesy of Kaid

The wide saddle one should (I hope) fit pretty much any 200 or 300TDi with no mods to the tunnel area.

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  • 4 years later...

My 300tdi 1995 has an r380 and the tunnel is a direct swap to the TD5. The 300tdi has a removable section which was not required.

Other differences I have found so far are

Bonnet release = bracket on 300 is not on the td5 but I just bought a td5 one which is better in my opinion.

Large fuse box in engine compartment which feeds starter solenoid = bracket on passengers footwell in engine compartment is not there on the td5.

Wiring loom goes through in a different place so needed to drill a large hole for td5.

May be more and I will update as I go.

Pics of TD5

IMAG0033-1.jpg

IMAG0032-1.jpg

Frax ;)

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