Bluemoon Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 exactly as the title says , after doing the cam belt, do you put threadlock on the crank shaft bolt, after the 80n then 90 degree tighten, got my new engine coming tomorow , and I want to do the cam belt before it goes in the motor. Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy V8 Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 i've never put thread lock on a crankshaft bolt.they are difficult to undo without it on so would be even worse with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluemoon Posted December 15, 2011 Author Share Posted December 15, 2011 main reason I'm asking is my old engine is knackered due to crank shaft pulley coming loose. Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevorevans Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 I lost a good engine due to someone possibly putting thread lock or the wrong strength of thread lock (I am lead to bilieve there are 2 strengths) on the crank pully bolt, it would not be undone. Every trick, even the dodgy/risky ones were tried. To cut a long story short the engine got taken out and swapped again after only being in the truck for about 3 months due to me not being able to change the belt. It sounded really nice and pulled really well, I was gutted, not to mention the cost of a second engine and fitting. So draw from my experience what you will. HTH. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 I always locktite the key into the crank and then locktite the key into the pulley. Then just put a spot on the bolt. You will need a puller to get the pulley off in 40k, but they don't come loose. I've managed to ressurect worn cranks this way using new keys and pulleys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 I lost a good engine due to someone possibly putting thread lock or the wrong strength of thread lock (I am lead to bilieve there are 2 strengths) on the crank pully bolt, it would not be undone. Every trick, even the dodgy/risky ones were tried. To cut a long story short the engine got taken out and swapped again after only being in the truck for about 3 months due to me not being able to change the belt. It sounded really nice and pulled really well, I was gutted, not to mention the cost of a second engine and fitting. So draw from my experience what you will. HTH. WHAT!!!!! I have a tool that bolts into the 4 m8 tapped holes in the crank pulley for holding it still whilst using a breaker bar/scaffold tube to crack off stubborn crank bolts. One of these to hold the pulley still http://www.difflock.com/buyersguide/newproducts/timing-kit/anti-rotation-tool.shtml And one of these to pull it off, http://www.mm-4x4.com/crank-damper-puller-300-tdi---part-no-lrt12049-3415-p.asp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenstream Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 Might be a daft question - but does the puller fit a 200 TDI as well ? M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 I use Loctite 270. I've experienced the bolt coming loose a good few times and usually by the time you find out, the nose of the crank and the pully are damaged. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted December 17, 2011 Share Posted December 17, 2011 (I am lead to bilieve there are 2 strengths) There's more than 2 strengths, depending on environment and requirements Never loctited one on, never had one come loose....the 340Nm is bad enough as it is, never mind loctite as well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat_pending Posted December 17, 2011 Share Posted December 17, 2011 I always use Loctite (other thread locks are available considerably cheaper) on crank bolts. The problems happen when people put too much on. It only requires a couple of drops, I've seen bolts that've been covered in it. The bond is broken above a certain temprature (can't remember the figure but it's very hot),so you need to get bolts that have had an overdose of thread lock, smoking hot to undo them. Thread lock will not stop a tdi crank bolt from coming loose if it's not been torqued up properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted December 18, 2011 Share Posted December 18, 2011 There's more than 2 strengths, depending on environment and requirements Never loctited one on, never had one come loose....the 340Nm is bad enough as it is, never mind loctite as well! Agreed, I've never found any need to Loctite any bolts if a torque setting has been given for a particular bolt, UNLESS the threads are worn in which case Loctite is often required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted December 18, 2011 Share Posted December 18, 2011 Here's a useful little article about selecting loctite, these are just some thread locking varieties... http://www.loctitesolutions.com/files/AN09/Threadlocking_Guide.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted December 18, 2011 Share Posted December 18, 2011 I use THREAD SEALANT.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted December 18, 2011 Share Posted December 18, 2011 a small drop of loctite is always used, Weve had crank and cam shaft bolts coming undone on 200tdi's so we loctite and torque up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 On my previous 200 tdi I ruined a perfectly good crankshaft damper pulley and woodruff key as I'd not put threadlock onto the crankshaft damper pulley before I refitted it onto the engine, I also got told a while ago to use threadlock on the bolt too,both of which I now do I've never had any problems getting either of these back off again as i made my own pulley puller and use the engine to remove the crankshaft bolt by removing the stop solenoid lead,attaching a 30mm socket and T bar along with a piece of 30x30mm tubing onto the chassis rail and flicking so to speak the ignition key so that it breaks the seal on the threadlock and will unscrew the bolt, hth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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