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Diff lockers or articulation?


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i guess with all of this, you need to be aware of where the fail point is, in the axles, the last thing you want is it in the diff. I totally agree with you on KAM being a bit useless, however I have had really good help from them (well, two of there employees FORMER EMPLOYEES anyway) as the owner is a bit dizzy.

Fixed for you Badger ;)

Thankyou Steve :D

There is now just the one there - Kevin the owner.

Zim

As EX KAM I can still say that on the so called "Aerospace" shafts we had in 18mths a huge number of sales and prob from memory 2 x breakages, and one of these was

a 4.6V8 38" boggers at 6,000 RPM BOUNCING trying to rock climb and his "warranty claim of green laning become "Interesting"after we found the You Tube clip :rofl:

The other I can't rememeber - but - they ARE good and breakages are few....so

I would really like to see pics of the broken shafts and broken bits, I think there is a possible problem as the shafts frankly don't break. HD stuff - yup whole different world, but

to be honest if Steve and I see some pics we might just spot something - frankly you would just be much happier if things didn't break, so let Steve & I help you, NOTHING to do with KAM

just our joint knowledge .....either post up what you have of last ones - or next time :D:P

I have a number of ideas - tricky to explain but need pics :) IMVHO the KAM CV Kit stub shafts and Aerospace shafts were Good Kit, which I could say for some of the other

products hand on heart, But CVs Stubs and AS Shafts are top notch....let us help

Nige

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Nige,

I'm not complaining about the aerospace shafts, i've seen ashcroft stuff break as well.

The front stub shafts, these we can break pretty easily but i suppose at least they're not the cv's / shafts which are a pain to change.

My whinging is about the customer service not really the product.

G

G

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I don't understand this fascination for carrying spares instead of putting proper shafts in there from the get-go .. Surely you don't enjoy having to change shafts, or worse, having to take out the diff in order to get the broken bit out that seems to be just a bit too stuck to get out with any clever tools, underneath a mud covered vehicle... :blink:

I much more enjoy driving around, having fun and not having to worry about breaking stuff..

Not all of us are made of money you know......
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Zim

To my Knowledge (Steve can back me up or correct me ) there are a few varinats of stubs.

early stubs were "Cut" to an OD to allow breakages at lower levels, where people didn't have decent shfats and were building up to a full axle in kit form, looking

at the pictures I think these are "UnCut" . Also there were differing makers of the stubs, and on one manufactuer they seemed to break easier than the later batches.

In my mind one batch was not always the same / good as another, for 99% of peeps this was still OK, as they didn't ry to break them as hard as your doing, but for you

this may be a difference.

Unsure also which front stubs you have they look like liong ones ? - these are technically stronger than short ones as they due to length have a bit more "Flex before shearing per length" sort of thing.

Do these stubs break at full lock and booting up / down steep hils ?

Also a\re you 101% sure the CVs are shimmed up 101% properly, as not doing WILL see breakages well lower than they should be, if in any doubt ring me.

I am not casting aspertions at you or you mechanical skills (driving yeah maybe you ruffarse :P ) but trying to help, I have no interest in KAM anymore, even when I was there

I was 100% honest with customers, but here I just think there is something wrong (other than you driving :P )

so, the rear

That looks like an aerospace shaft, to be certain in should have laser etched numbers on it, I am guessing these will be siomething like 953 or 682 within the numbers ? Please confirm,

no number = no aerospace and just HD, but I think they are AS.

What size tyres are you running ?

When I look at the picture I am wondering about the markings on the centre of the shaft, are you again 100% sure you don't have a twist or bend in your casing ?

as this can cause havoc (don't ask me how I know this one :( !) ?? I was wondering on the rear if you had the right shafts - but from the engagement marks

on the iner broekn end yes you have :( consider my thought on bent casing almost impossible to see without it stripped and on the bench ....(don't ask me how I know :(:P )

Speak soon - Re Customer Service - sorry bud can't help you there anymore - I has left :P:rofl: in i

Few things to check and report back on :)

Nige

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Nige,

Stubs - yes, i've run various batches all seem to be the same. But i'm learning, the last challenge we didn't break any :lol:. 99% of the time, it'll be when i'm nose down i.e. weight on them. Not neccessarily turning.

Tyres - measure 35", i compete in the LRS series so this shows they're <36".

Right foot - getting better, but still got a habit of going LOUD. Like steve said, a bit ruff.

Stubs - yes, the long type and yes the uncut type.

CV's - as far as i know they are shimmed up fine. Not too loose, and not too tight. I've double checked the orientation of the pyramid shaped bush (not sure the fancy name!)

Rear shaft - yes, a 953. The marks you can see are from the adjuster nut. When the shaft broke it was at the correct length to jam up / twist off the nut and get stuck around the shaft - hence the marks. I changed the carrier bearings as a result as well.

Have a look at the picture, you can see the locking tab has been bent as everything has got mangled. You'll also see they're pegged and i run capheads on both the carrier bearing bolts and crownwheel bolts.

post-9903-0-36805200-1324665749_thumb.jpg

Nige, i assume your bench looks like this as well :lol: :

post-9903-0-78584200-1324665789_thumb.jpg

G

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I'm not a complete hooligan, but there seems a good case for putting my KAM rear half shafts on the Bay and buying ashcroft, before one shreds my diff bearing adjuster. As thats the same damage I saw at Penkridge in the summer on a blokes comp buggy.

It's no the break, its the way it breaks!

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Please for your own good try your car as it is, don't go locker or suspension before you learn how to use it. A friend of mine, an overlander coming from Australia to Colombia have a Puma with ARB in the back, before it he had a TD5 with ARB front and back, all his life he has been surrounded for lockers, suspensions, big tyres, etc...... 4 months ago he came to my city and went for a medium off road track (at least for us here next to the jungle, jejejeje) with my 110, a Toyota Land Cruiser and a Series IIA, all of us with open diffs..... Puma was spectacular, really near from the Series with General SAG, but once a tree took a piece of the locker hose, luck was done..... it took us more than 3 hours to take it out from the mud trial, a place where we use to be out in less than 1 hour, all because Randy was in really bad shape trying to go off road without toys..... everything scared him, he didn't know how slippery a mud hill can be, it doesn't matter how good your BFG are, how much torque you have or how tall the car is. The only thing that really matters is what is between the steering wheel and the seat. Inertia? what the hell is that? how the hell is the car supposed to be controlled when rear wins over the road? I think you must think twice before putting some toys, it's kind of cheating. Haven't you seen Camel Trophy? that was off road, not the actual games, all of them with no lockers or height kits...

I have 2 IIA and one 110. There is nothing to say, Series are far superior in off road when it's really off road, not playing grounds or competence tracks. Without lockers, they can go really far from everybody, maybe you can count a Willys or Unimog can go with you.

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100% agree with the post above,but just found an interesting video on youtube,watch from 2:23,

series-standard suspension & lockers,90- high flex suspension & open diffs

the suzuki had lsd's

I do like that Series Landy ;o)

200Tdi, Series box, Truetrac in the front and ARB RD128 in the back. Pegged and on 4.7 still. 235/85R16 Special Tracks.

It has evolved a bit since then.

The blue 90 now has a pegged Eaton NoSpin in the back.

I'm seriously looking at the Ashcroft Locker for the front now.

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