sammyb Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 Right after a few times the hand brakes has stuck on momentarily then freed off, now it doesn't seem to work at all now This is the drum type on a 90 btw, I have heard people mentioning upgrading to a disc hand brake, is it worth upgrading to one of these?? an what parts will i need? Also having issues with the rear hub seals on my back hubs have gone an have now soaked all the shoes etc etc, is it worth up grading to a disco rear axle?? before I shell out on new shoes fitting kit etc etc Pro's and cons please peoples! (honest opinions too) Sammy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 parkbrake might just need the expander unit cleaning & lubricating. have a search for my X-Brake fitting thread, you'll see what's involved. if you have a disco rear axle ready to fit, that is a good improvement, if not just change the seals & shoes in the existing axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sammyb Posted May 11, 2012 Author Share Posted May 11, 2012 can you post a link please matey, bit tricky on my phone lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 can you post a link please matey, bit tricky on my phone lol here you go, http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=10846 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 parkbrake might just need the expander unit cleaning & lubricating. have a search for my X-Brake fitting thread, you'll see what's involved. if you have a disco rear axle ready to fit, that is a good improvement, if not just change the seals & shoes in the existing axle. As above. Generally servicing the handbrake is sufficient. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sammyb Posted May 11, 2012 Author Share Posted May 11, 2012 anything i need to look out for in particular? or is just a case of it gets ****ty an clogged up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagmire Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 On the subject of swapping for rear discs, I did this and think that the braking efficiency is about the same as drums in normal driving. Where you really see the difference is the lack of fade on long hills or when towing. However if off-roading a lot then discs offer less maintenance probably? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 Cannot recomend the X-Brake enough. It is a superb bit of kit . I was forever adjusting the drum and still not working when wet/muddy. On the subject of swapping for rear discs, I did this and think that the braking efficiency is about the same as drums in normal driving. Where you really see the difference is the lack of fade on long hills or when towing. However if off-roading a lot then discs offer less maintenance probably? On the road you don't need disks, but offroad they stay clean and usable . and don't need cleaning after a session in the splendid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 anything i need to look out for in particular? or is just a case of it gets ****ty an clogged up? Probably nothing too bad in there. I;d take the prop and drum off, pop the shoes off and take the expander and adjuster apart, clean and grease them. Remember to chock the vehicle as you wont have a handbrake. Note how the bits come apart so you know how to put it back together. The workshop manual has a good page or two on this with all the info you need. You can download it here: http://landroveroneten.com/index.php/general/land-rover-manuals/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 I thouroughly recommend a disk braked rear axle. The brakes work so much better, in part because they are self adjusting but also because they are barely affected by mud and much less by water. The drum handbrake can be fixed and adjusted fairly easily. It's at the very least worth cleaning and greasing the expanded mechanism as that's what normally sticks. If it shows signs of corrosion, replace it with a genuine Land Rover part from a main dealer. Most of the patterned ones will need attention again very quickly. I have no technical explanation for this, but I found ordinary GP Grease worked better than Copperslip which many people use. It may be that the corrosion is electrolytic and the copper in the Copperslip provides a conduction path? To extend the time between service & adjustment, you can drill two diametrically opposite holes in the circular face of the drum. Two so the drum stays balanced. You can then poke a hose into one of the holes after you've been in the mud to wash most of it out. Even when the expanded is working, they do sometimes stick because the shoes rust to the drum. If you've been off roading and are going to leave the vehicle for a while without moving it, it might be worth chocking the wheels and leaving the handbrake released. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 have no technical explanation for this, but I found ordinary GP Grease worked better than Copperslip which many people use. It may be that the corrosion is electrolytic and the copper in the Copperslip provides a conduction path? another alternative grease is the red brake grease from Castrol, purpose made for brake components & seals in & on calipers/wheel cylinders & doesn't affect brake fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 I did the disco rear upgrade before christmas and its probably one of the mods I wish I had done earlier. Brakeing effort is increased ten fold, I found it a lot more responsive and so much more confidance in her stopping now, its not a big job to do, good opertunity, to make the axle good then it is just a case of slipping it under, I did it my myself, crosshauling the old one out from under the truck and putting the new one in the same way - few pics in my re-build thread i think. would have been easier with 2 folk lifting it under but hey ho. other than swapping the 3 bolt flange from a disco set-up, there is no other big work to make the conversion. My truck s 86, with the balance G valve to suite, but it works fine - and how it should, I never get the rear end locking up or anything. Mav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sammyb Posted May 13, 2012 Author Share Posted May 13, 2012 one other thought is if I use a disco 200 rear axle, dont they have 24 slpine hubs? as atm my 90 is on 10 spline one's atm...will this make a difference?? also is the diff ratio the same? or is it a case of swapping front and rear axle to keep a matching pair?? sammy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted May 13, 2012 Share Posted May 13, 2012 Nothing wrong with using a combination of 10spline on the front and 24 spline on the rear. Some say that 24 is stronger but its neglible. Jsut easier to get uprated parts for 24 spline stuff. Diffs are the same ratio defender - disco . Front and rears dont need to be a matched pair, my front is the original 1984 90 one and the rear is a disco or rangie, I can't remember. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 Only the very last few months run of 200 tdi discos had 24 spline shafts anyway so chances are it will be 10 spline too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sammyb Posted May 14, 2012 Author Share Posted May 14, 2012 thanks Ill try an make sure its a 200 one i get then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 I've got 24 on the back and 10 on the front just now, shortly be changeing front to match the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 I've got 24 on the back and 10 on the front just now, shortly be changeing front to match the back. Mav, what year is your front axle? Depending on the year you are better off rebuilding rather than swapping Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Mav, what year is your front axle? Depending on the year you are better off rebuilding rather than swapping Ross, It will be the original 86, what do you mean re-building? - the axle was re-built 1yr ago, i was just thinking it would be nice to have the same diff front and back...I had a notion to keep the original case, and just swap the diff and swivel assemblies...? OR did also wonder if I could just pop the half shafts in and diff and keep the old model CV's and swivels etc as they where new gineuine one only 10k miles ago... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 As you say, you want to keep the old AEU2522 CVs, I wouldn't worry about swapping the front diff to a 24 spline one unless you are going to a 4-pin or locker. Keeping the only CVs and having a 24 spline diff will mean aftermarket halfshafts. Not sure when they stopped using them, but if yours has the AEU2522 CVs then it will also have the wide hubs? so wheel bearings slightly further apart . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 As you say, you want to keep the old AEU2522 CVs, I wouldn't worry about swapping the front diff to a 24 spline one unless you are going to a 4-pin or locker. Keeping the only CVs and having a 24 spline diff will mean aftermarket halfshafts. Not sure when they stopped using them, but if yours has the AEU2522 CVs then it will also have the wide hubs? so wheel bearings slightly further apart . hmmm I will heed your advice as I recall you've looked into this in rather a lot of detail! from memory the hubs are the wider ones. are the half shafts the same length do you know? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Well if you count looking into it as rebuilding mine twice (water ingress, then second hand diff wearing out), yes . Got a P38 4-pin in there now with a pair of KAM aerospace shafts. not sure on the shaft length sorry... but I think the only length difference (for the wider hubs/bearings) is that the stub axle and CV are longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Well if you count looking into it as rebuilding mine twice (water ingress, then second hand diff wearing out), yes . Got a P38 4-pin in there now with a pair of KAM aerospace shafts. not sure on the shaft length sorry... but I think the only length difference (for the wider hubs/bearings) is that the stub axle and CV are longer. Hehe, i'll have to have a look, now I appear to have an abundance of half shafts etc. thanks for the advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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