Diablo Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 For reference it's an early LT230, an R I think. Rebuild was completed in Feb this year. Initially I noticed a leak from the front output flange, fairly soon after. Presumed this was just bad luck, so changed it. Soon after that, the PTO cover started to leak. Then the rear output flange Just had a look under today, and the front is leaking again too, as well as a load more joints etc. First thought was breather, so disconnected that, looked ok, blew through it, no issues there. Stumped now. Seems very odd that everything decides to leak at once (and twice in the case of the front flange)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 Did you replace the flange or just the seal? The only way I could get the front flange to stop leaking on mine was to replace the whole thing, the wear on the old flange surface (on which the seal runs) was too great. PTO cover, replace the gaskets and all should be well. A smear of RTV may help too. Do NOT just replace them with RTV alone, since earlier LT230s have the pre-load on the input gear bearings set with the gaskets in place. Removing them will result in over-loaded bearings and an eventual expensive bang With regard to why it's all started leaking at once, it's probably just a coincidence. Only thing I can think of in addition to breather blockage as you say would be overheating of the box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 As with James, did you replace the flange as well? My rear output flange wasn't too bad, but I changed it anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 Its a landrover, its suppose to leak oil.... When the oil leaks stop it's time to worry! ....the flange will wear a groove in it over time (if its a LT230R R=radial bearings...) I would not be surprised (v old transfer case....) One trick is to try to reseat the seal forward / back if possible .... doesn't always work, sometimes is a quick fix to get you out of a hole (works on front engine crankshaft oil seals sometimes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diablo Posted June 21, 2012 Author Share Posted June 21, 2012 Flange at the front was replaced yes, as the one that came out was a bit of a mess. Had stopped leaking for a few months, looks like it's back again. And I'm determined to stop it leaking, eventually! The front half of the vehicle is great (ie dry). What would cause the box to be overheating on a daily commute? No towing heavy loads up steep hills here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 Lack of oil? wrong oil? Not birtpart seals/flanges are they? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 Overheat.... oil (lack of).... or the difflock on..... that won't help! It's possible that because the box is overheating, that the rubber seal has become soft and not doing what it is suppose to.... It may also be possible that the flange is made of poor steel and has worn a groove already It is also possible that the seal was damaged when installed. Sorry no hard and fast answers, just a number of possibilities Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 also possible that the flange has a fairly rough finish when new and is eating the seals..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 seal put in the wrong way around?.... think it's been done before.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diablo Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 Not britpart no. Seal the wrong way round wouldn't seal at all would it? It had been fine for a few months? Looks like a fun weekend ahead.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 Check that the breathers aren't blocked. If they are, as things warm up the air inside expands and causes pressure that will force oil out through all your orifices. Same applies to axles. --Tanuki Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diablo Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 Not breather, blew through that yesterday without issue. There's nothing in the transfer box that would be blocking the breather route is there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonb Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 When you say blew through breather, did you diconnect the banjo fitting on top of the transfer casting and blow though from the other end - usually in the engine bay? Or, did you pull the pipe off at the transfer end and blow from there? In which case the banjo or the banjo bolt could be blocked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 Just blow through the breather with the filler plug out to test the whole path of the breather is clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diablo Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share Posted June 23, 2012 Good plan. I had taken banjo out and blown from the banjo washer bit, whatever it's called. Going to start with the pto covert at some point today. Is there anything I need to know about (eg bits flying out) or is it just undo bolts, change gasket, do bolts back up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 Going to start with the pto covert at some point today. Is there anything I need to know about (eg bits flying out) or is it just undo bolts, change gasket, do bolts back up? Pretty much yeah Speedo cable will be retained in a clip on one of the bolts (which is actually a stud/nut on mine), but I don't think there's anything more to it than that. Keep everything scrupulously clean and remember that the carrier and cover plate only fit on one way. For clarification, there are two parts to the cover. The actual cover plate which you can see, and then under that there is the bearing carrier itself. This means that there are two gaskets, one between carrier and box and another between cover plate and carrier. On some early models there are two screws securing the carrier in addition to the six bolts that go through both cover plate and carrier. It should be fairly self-explanatory though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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