Spearos Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 It seems I have finally got to the source of a small oil leak on my 3.5 V8 - it appears to be coming from the front/timing cover gasket. Now I've done a bit of googling and it all seems straight forward enough to replace - set engine to TDC on cyl 1, mark dizzy position, whip off dizzy, belts etc, remove cover bolts and off it comes. However from what I've read I'm not sure if I need to remove any (2?) sump bolts? Also while I'm on here rambling on, is there anything else to be aware of? Are the bolts prone to seizing? Anything worth doing/checking while I'm at it? I understand the crank pulley can be a swine to remove - what's your top tip for getting it off? Any comments most welcome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 If you've got it open, replace the chain and sprockets too while you're at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 Not sure if all v8s do but at least some have studs along the bottom of the timing cover that go through the sump, so the sump has to come off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 I bought a new timing chain gear set, original equipment type and the nylon gear was very poor quality, so I get a cloyes set from v8 tuner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny five Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 Not sure if all v8s do but at least some have studs along the bottom of the timing cover that go through the sump, so the sump has to come off There are a couple of bolts from the sump that go into the cover but you don't have to take the sump off,just the bolts that go into the cover then you can slide the cover away from it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 The longer bolts through the timing cover can snap, so take it gentle! I'd order a set of new ones if the engine's a few years old. Worth marking / noting which bolt goes in which hole as they're all different lengths, just to confuse you. Might be worth splashing the extra £2.50 for a crank nose oil seal while you're there, don't want to nick it on the way off and not have a spare. You'll have to reset the ignition timing when you've put it all back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 Drain water first? Front cover has water pump in it if RV8 or in front of it if yank V8? Marc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted March 6, 2013 Author Share Posted March 6, 2013 Thanks for all the replies Engine has done 120k and as far as I know is on original gears/chain and cam. So perhaps this is something I'll look into doing while I'm 'in there'. The longer bolts through the timing cover can snap, so take it gentle! I'd order a set of new ones if the engine's a few years old. Worth marking / noting which bolt goes in which hole as they're all different lengths, just to confuse you.Might be worth splashing the extra £2.50 for a crank nose oil seal while you're there, don't want to nick it on the way off and not have a spare. I will do that cardboard template with holes trick for the bolts, and pray none are seized! Thanks for the heads up Fridge - I will have to plan the operation carefully timewise as it's my daily driver. Good shout with the seal too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Changing cam will require taking the inlet manifold off too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted March 7, 2013 Author Share Posted March 7, 2013 Changing cam will require taking the inlet manifold off too. Hmmmm, well we'll see how adventurous I feel nearer the time! I've had the manifold off when I did the head gaskets and didn't find it too much of a ball ache... Thank you for your input Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Use ELRING Gaskets for Head and Inlet Manifold Buy a GENUINE LR Timing cover gasket, you won't belive the difference between them and pattern genuine = NO sealer at all its built into / onto the gasket worth every penny IMHO and not enspensive Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted March 7, 2013 Author Share Posted March 7, 2013 Use ELRING Gaskets for Head and Inlet ManifoldBuy a GENUINE LR Timing cover gasket, you won't belive the difference between them and pattern genuine = NO sealer at all its built into / onto the gasket worth every penny IMHO and not enspensive Nige All taken on board, cheers. What about the gears/chain? Any brands to go for? Or avoid? Also, what's the deal with the plastic or steel camshaft gears? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomark10 Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 All taken on board, cheers. What about the gears/chain? Any brands to go for? Or avoid?Also, what's the deal with the plastic or steel camshaft gears? I got my rebuild parts from realsteal, the gears are both metal, wouldn't be worth changing the cam without the lifters... then your getting closer to a rebuild lol. chain and gears defo worth changing while you have access Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 Real steel or V8Tuner are good for parts. The genuine cam gear is plastic for quietness, later ones (P38) are metal. If you're feeling cheap I've got the duplex timing gears (and an RP4 cam) from my 4.6 when I switched to Serpentine front end, the gears are like new (cam's not bad either TBH), yours for a forum donation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 If you do do the cam, genuine lifters only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted March 8, 2013 Author Share Posted March 8, 2013 Real steel or V8Tuner are good for parts. The genuine cam gear is plastic for quietness, later ones (P38) are metal.If you're feeling cheap I've got the duplex timing gears (and an RP4 cam) from my 4.6 when I switched to Serpentine front end, the gears are like new (cam's not bad either TBH), yours for a forum donation. Always feeling cheap!! That's a mighty fine offer, I'm definitely interested! Would you be willing to post if I covered the cost? If you do do the cam, genuine lifters only. Again, noted for future refeference - i think I'll leave the cam alone... for now! Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 Always feeling cheap!! That's a mighty fine offer, I'm definitely interested! Would you be willing to post if I covered the cost? Can do, might take me a few days to get to the shed & dig it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted March 8, 2013 Author Share Posted March 8, 2013 Can do, might take me a few days to get to the shed & dig it out. No worries, I'm far from being in any kind of rush! PM sent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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